| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
I changed out the blown seal on my ULY last week but while it had been leaking, all that oil had soaked the front brake pads and the rotor. The day before I noticed the blown seal I had gone for a 40 mile ride and noticed a marked increase in the pressure it took to use the front brakes ( no shiite, right?) Anyways, I've wiped the rotor clean but the pucks are going to have heat the oil out of them through use. One thing I have noticed is that my front brake has quit pulsing since the lube job. They work smooth and stop the bike just fine so I'm just going to use them as is until they wear out. The fork with the blown seal only had a few ounces of oil left in it with much of it on the floor of my garage. After the seal and front fork lube replacement( both sides ) my bike's front end feels so much more solid now. | ||
| Etennuly |
If you want a faster brake recovery you can take the pads off and scuff them with some 80 or 100 grit sand paper. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Thanks, Actually they seem to work fine. They haul the bike down fast. | ||
| Buelet |
Last year during our 3500 mile trip to the Grand Canyon, my front seal went from a seep to a LEAK. The seals were replaced under warranty, but they didn't replace the pads since they're a "non-warranty" item. I thought that was crap, since the pads didn't wear out, but were instead ruined by the failure of a covered part. On top of that, it seems like a liability issue for them not to replace them as well. It takes a LOT of pressure to get it stopped... Point being. I also decided to just ride it out & was expecting that they'ed eventually improve as the oil was cooked out of them. ...5k or so miles later & I might just give in and replace them. (Thought about taking the pads off and soaking them in gas overnight to see if that breaks down the oil and helps restore their effectiveness...) Might try that soon. I concur that the oiled pads have completely eliminated ALL traces of front pulsing though!  | ||
| Trevd |
After reading this thread, I concocted a mixture of Vaseline, Anti-Seize, and Goose Sh*t, and smeared it all over my front brake pads. I can't stop worth a damn, but the front pulsing has totally disappeared!  | ||
| Froggy |
Well that is BS, I just had my 1125R in for an oil leak, turned out it was a breather hose came loose, I got a new air filter among other things covered under warranty. Some of the oil made it on the rear rotor and swingarm, I'll see if I can get new pads there. | ||
| Ourdee |
Froggy, You don't use the brakes anyways. | ||
| Froggy |
They stop me from rolling backwards when going uphill. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
My bike stops real nice. I'm sure the oil has smoked off the pads. Our ULY clutches are oil bath and yet they seem to lock up so the rear wheel moves. Clutches are just like brakes, there is a friction zone on both and full lock together. If my front brake was not working correctly I'd fix it. For one reason or other the pulsing that I had before has gone away because of the severe oiling it got from the fork. Probably will come back but not so far. | ||
| Tiltcylinder |
Too late now, but for future reference... If you pads get oily and you can't / won't replace them... Heat them gently with a propane torch. You'll actually see the oil rise out of them and you can wipe it off with a rag. Do it a couple of times and you'll remove most of the oil. Then spray and wipe thoroughly with brakekleen. Was an old roadside repair trick I used for may years. Just heat them gently... most pads are glued on these days, everything was riveted way back when, brakes get pretty hot in use so it's not a terrible concern, but I have seen it make the pad fall of the backing plate. DAMHIK |
