| Author | Message | ||
     Cato |
I am trying to remove the rear spark plug on my Ulysses, but cannot get it out. Tried the procedure described in the manual--use 5/8 swivel socket and 12 inch extension-- but the spark plug will not turn at all. I've tried using different size extensions, but nothing works. Any help would be appreciated. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
First time changing plugs on the bike? If not, did you put antisieze on them last time around? Once you do get it out, make sure to use antisieze when putting the plugs back in! Try spraying PB-blaster on the plug and letting it soak in. Do this a few times. It can't hurt, and may help. | ||
| Fung |
As long as the socket is seated on the plug, give it a good try. Sometimes it's tuff to get it free. | ||
| Cato |
This is my first time changing the plugs. I did remove the front with a box wrench and put anti-seize on the new front. The rear will not come out. I'm afraid of using too much force. I already broke the electrode off the top of the plug. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you broke the electrode, you didn't have the socket seated correctly on the plug and it went sideways. | ||
| Cpeg |
I just did this yesterday, that rear one was a bear to get out. I used a 2x4 block of wood about a foot long, put as much torque on the wrench as I could with one hand and gave the handle a good smack with the 2x4, this popped the plug lose. Sometimes you just have to show it whose boss. Good Luck. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Just make darned sure you don't cross thread it putting a new one in. Use your hand and not a socket wrench to start it so that you can feel it threading together properly. | ||
| Prowler |
No room for a hand in there that I could tell. I used the old standby method of the 8" long rubber hose over the plug ceramic to get it started without cross threading . Was rather easy to get it mostly in that way (w/ never-seez of course). | ||
| Rwven |
3/8" air hose works great. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
But you still use your hand to turn whatever it is you are positioning the plug with. That was what I was saying. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I just changed plugs in my XT as well. Didn't have too much trouble getting either plug in or out. Did figure out though that a wiggle joint doesn't have quite enough flex to safely get the rear plug out - it felt as if it would put too much sideways pressure on the plug and snap it off. A universal joint worked great. My issue was getting the rear plug wire back on. That thing was a real pain, I finally took the lower airbox plate off (or whatever the proper name is) so I could completely remove the rear plug wire and come at it from a new angle. | ||
| Hangetsu |
My next tune up will be the first one I do myself. Can someone post a lits of the exact tools I might want to have on hand to manage the plug changing ordeal? Thanks! | ||
| 7873jake |
I can knock mine out in about 20-30 mins at a comfortable pace with: tube of never-seize spark plug socket (5/8" IIRC, with a hex head configuration at the 3/8" drive end) box end wrench to fit the spark plug socket mentioned above (used on the front plug) universal joint adapter for above spark plug socket ratchet a socket drive extension bar- 6" or 10" works fine Torx T-27 for removal of airbox and shifter side scoop 10+" length of rubber tubing (old air hose, like Rwven said) feeler gauges for gapping the plugs I also have one each of these plug boot pullers that I use depending on which one I can find at the time I go at the plugs on the Buell:   There used to be a video on youtube of a guy changing his plugs. I think this is the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMeqOE5Jxsg (Message edited by 7873jake on April 26, 2011) | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
\ youtube {ftw} | ||
| Whisperstealth |
I use a universal 5/8 socket and extension with a 3/8 drive ratchet for the back plug. Yes you have to make sure it is seated properly on the plug, but have never had any trouble taking it out. If seated properly, don't be afraid to put a little torque on it. When putting the plug back in, I use the extension and turn carefully by hand, making sure not to cross thread. I have a hose, I can use, but have not found it necessary. I put a fair amount of never-sieze on both plugs. Enough to fill the groves in the thread. This makes taking them back out much easier. For the front plug a 5/8" gear/ratchet wrench is great! Slip it over the plug and your good to go. | ||
| Cpeg |
Take special note of the torque value when installing the plug. 12-18 ft# is just enough to crush the washer, anymore than that and you will pay for it when you try to remove them the next time. You can get a torque wrench on the rear plug, then approximate that feel on the front. | ||
| Rwven |
I turn both plugs in by hand until the washer contacts firmly. I then torque the rear noting how many degrees (roughly) it takes to reach proper torque. I then turn the front plug the same number of degrees. I haven't lost a plug or stripped the head in 30K miles, so I assume it works. | ||
| Hughlysses |
On a related topic, I've also found that too much anti-seize is a bad thing. Over time, the "grease" part seems to evaporate leaving only the metallic part. If you glop it on the threads, it actually seems to bind when you're removing the spark plugs. I've found that coating the threads throughly with anti-seize, and then wiping the threads with a cloth to remove the excess works well. | ||
| Ronmold |
Rwven, that's a great tip on front torque. I will do that next time | ||
| Rwven |
Hughlysses, I use Jet-Lube NIKAL Nuclear Grade anti-seize. It's rated for a temperature range of -65F to 2600F. It's about $12.00 for a 1/4 lb brushtop container so it's not too expensive. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Too much anti seize prevents the plug from dissipating heat through the head and thats not a good thing. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I use Chernobyl meltdown grade anti-seize that's guaranteed to work between absolute zero and the temperature at the core of the sun. | ||
| Closetbueller |
When fighting to get the wires back on, I have found it easier to remove the coil, wire the plugs, wire the coil, reinstall coil. | ||
| Cpeg |
Use the boot pliers like what 7183jake showed. Worth the $. | ||
| Rwven |
Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit... | ||
| Ronmold |
 | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
 |
