| Author | Message | ||
     Eryngium |
Looking into my left side scoop I can see a lot of oily dirt on the left side of the back of the rear cylinder. I can also see oily dirt on the fan. I hoping this is common on bikes that have NOT had the breather reroute because I have not done it (I started buying arts to do it this last weekend). I'm skeptical that it would be related to that as I don't see the same oily dirt in places where it seems like it would be if it was from the breathers. I tried to take more photos, but it's hard to get light back in there and hard to focus on small parts behind closer parts. Anybody ever see this before? Any thoughts? Leaky cylinder head gasket comes to mind.  | ||
| 7873jake |
Check the rear PCV valve and make sure it is seated in its fitting first or that the hose off of it is seated? | ||
| Hughlysses |
If the rear PCV valve is seated properly and the hose is still routed properly, it's almost certainly the rear rocker box gasket (NOT the head gasket). It's not too bad of a job to replace; remove airbox, remove muffler, rotate engine forward/down, pull rocker box, install new gaskets, reverse procedure. | ||
| Eryngium |
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll start with the PCV. The simpler the better. | ||
| Rwven |
I just replaced my rocker box gaskets. It's not that bad of a job if you know which end of a wrench to hold on to. | ||
| Swampy |
Do you have to remove the muffler to rotate the engine?? | ||
| Hughlysses |
According to the manual you do. I think it would hit the back tire if you left it in place. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Would it be easier to remove said back wheel? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Then you have to figure a way to suspend the bike at the back, plus you need more vertical clearance at the front since the muffler's still on there. Really the only hassle with removing the muffler is you have to replace the front band clamp every time. | ||
| Rwven |
Muffler removal/reinstall was no big deal. It was a good time to take the rusty thing off, sandblast it, paint it with about 8 coats of high heat black and bake it. It's looking real good now! | ||
| Darth_villar |
When reinstalling the muffler be absolutely sure you position the front muffler clamp in the exact same position. Otherwise it is prone to snap, which can result in nothing, or a broken head stud. Or just replace the clamp after the rotation. The rotation itself really doesn't take all that long to do, and with a manual and mild mechanical abilities should take about 2 hours or so. I'm fairly certain taking off the rear tire would not work. I believe you would end up crushing the exhaust. Phil (Message edited by darth_villar on April 20, 2011) | ||
| Eryngium |
Upon further examination I see this:  The rear right corner of the same cylinder. Even if it's not THE problem, it's enough of A problem to address. Fortunately my dealer says they have them in stock. Next question: while I've got access I'm thinking I might as well replace spark plugs. Wires? Why or why not? I've been getting a vibration in my feet lately that I hadn't identified. I'm wondering about the front isolator. It doesn't appear bad to me:  It doesn't seem like there would be a need to replace the metal parts. Can you just replace the rubber? I'm also considering repainting the muffler (Message edited by Eryngium on April 21, 2011) | ||
| Rwven |
That looks like a rocker box leak to me! The rubber in the isolator is bonded to the metal, It's not just a bushing that you can replace. |
