| Author | Message | ||
     Hughlysses |
I heard from the seller- get this- he bought this engine with the intention of installing it in his 07 Uly with a blown engine! I'm beginning to think this IS an epidemic. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Cool Beans! Happy to hear you got the engine  How many mile were on it again? Around 6K? Bet froggy can answer the wiring harness question. Let me know if you need any more help via manuels. I will be loosing my internet next week, so if you need anything just give me a call 1-870-955-8161. I can always run over to my buddy's to email something. | ||
| Rdkingryder |
Hugh, that's good news. Maybe I will go after that '08 crank set.  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Gabriel- It's actually only got 5k miles on it and the guy says there isn't a bit of road rash on it. If you could scan the 09 wiring diagram (I think it's in the parts book for my 07) and e-mail it to me that would be a big help. Thanks a LOT for the offer. Roland- I e-mailed that guy this morning and he said his buddy was not going to be able to buy it so it would be available. He didn't elaborate as to whether he would put it back on ebay. | ||
| Froggy |
Hugh, the R harness is going to be a bit interesting as it will have the ECM and fuse blocks are up in the front fairing area. You will need to do some splicing to connect the brake light too. Assuming you have no wire length issues, you should be good to go. (Message edited by froggy on April 10, 2011) | ||
| Whisperstealth |
You bet, no problem. I'll have them sent off later tomorrow, er - today | ||
| Hughlysses |
Thanks for the info Froggy. Seems like I should have an excess of wire for the ECM and fuse block; the question is how much splicing will I then have to do to reach the gauges, headlights, ignition switch, etc. at the front of the bike I'm kind of wondering if I won't find out it'll be easier to modify the 07 wiring harness to work with the 09 ECM, fuse block, and stator, rather than modify the 09 R wiring harness to fit a Uly. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Hugh, So are you going to make that 2009 into a 2010 dual O2 controlled engine? You'd probably be the first that I'd heard of. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Craig- that thought has occurred to me as well. I've already got the 2010 rear wheel and Comfort kit. Heck, all I need to bring it up to 2010 technical specs is the front forks and triple clamps. Assuming I keep it long enough, it'll be fun like it is when I take it to classic bike rallies and fellow Buell nerds scratch their heads trying to figure out what year the bike is.  | ||
| Buellerxt |
My 2008 will ALWAYS remain a 2008 to keep and protect the 25TH. Anniversary year designation! I have the 2010 wheel, the 2010 Comfort Kit, the 2010 flash, AND the 2011 front rotor hardware, BUT I'm only claiming about, oh, say 2008.675 or so! When I jokingly told that to the head parts guy at the local dealership he got real serious and tried to explain that I couldn't consider the upgrades, blah, blah, blah, and that it would always be a 2008 blah, blah, blah, no matter what I did!  I couldn't get him to stop talking long enough to tell him I WAS JOKING!!! Oh well, maybe it's my sense of humor! | ||
| Tootal |
I have the 2010 wheel, the 2010 Comfort Kit, the 2010 flash, AND the 2011 front rotor hardware, BUT I'm only claiming about, oh, say 2008.675 or so! Well, I'm only 40 12 years old too! | ||
| Hughlysses |
I found several parts for a 2008 XB12XT on ebay tonight, all from the same seller. I just e-mailed him to see if they'll be listing the wiring harness. Hopefully the 2008 and 2009 wiring harness would be identical. I suspect attempting to adapt the XB12R harness to a Uly is going to be more trouble than it's worth. I haven't given up yet, but if I could get a deal on a decent used harness that'd be the way to go. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Hugh, pdf's sent. Can you buy a new harness from HD? And are you going to go with an ebr ecm? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Thanks a lot for the PDFs; they're a huge help. 09 Uly schematic pretty much kills any idea of adapting my 07 harness; the new ECM has 72 pins versus only 25 on the 07 (!). I guess that means there are 47 extra wires in that harness somewhere! I'll have to lay out the 09 R wiring harness after I get it and see if there's any chance of adapting it. It could be as simple as un-looming and re-looming a bunch of wires to move the ECM and fuseblock from the front of the bike to the back (plus a few other miscellaneous mods), or it could require something like lengthening 72 wires ~3 feet, which would pretty much rule that option out. I've got a part number for the 09 Uly wiring harness and I got a price for it when I checked on Chicago HD's website, so hopefully it's available. Who knows how long it might take to get with things the way they are right now though. I'll see how it runs with the stock ECM; I'd love to have the Erik Buell Racing ECM but I may have to wait a while. | ||
| Motorbike |
Hughlysses, I missed something here. Are you trying to use a harness from an 1125R on your Uly? Is that what you mean when you say "09 R" harness? Where did you get that and why would you try to adapt that instead of a Uly harness from a newer bike to match the engine you just bought? I'm sorry, I know you are busy but I'm confused on the harness dilemma. Thanks. PS I think you are doing the right thing by trying to fit the newer engine. | ||
| Hughlysses |
The engine I've purchased came from a 2009 XB12R, complete with wiring harness, ECM and fuse/relay box. If it can be reasonably easily modified to work on the Uly (without excessive kluging) I'll try to use it. BTW- regarding the 08-up engine, here's another bit I found in the 2008 Technical Update book that explains some of the differences in the oiling system:  I'm beginning to think it's not just better, it's much better. (Message edited by Hughlysses on April 11, 2011) | ||
| Motorbike |
Thanks Hughlysses, I'm all clear now. Please keep up the good work, makes for very interesting reading! I hope this all works out for you. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I did a little more preparatory work tonight. (No photos of this part.) My "new" engine has the oil lines attached, and my old ones likely are contaminated with some amount of metal shavings, so they needed to come off. I'd purchased a cheap plastic set of tools for ~$6 to release the "snaptite" fittings, and the proper size tool proved utterly useless. I did some searching on Badweb and the internet tonight, and apparently the tool shown in the service manual for this duty costs somewhere between $50 and $70! Fortunately, several people said that even the correct tool would barely work sometimes, and a much simpler solution was to use a dental pick, or in my case an O-ring pick, to carefully remove the retaining spring from each fitting, which allows the hose to be pulled right out. Replacement springs are even available from your GM dealer (they're used on GM automatic transmission lines) should one rocket off into space, as they are apparently prone to do. I was fortunate and had all of mine removed and the hoses off in about 10 minutes, including a trip back inside to grab my Torx bits to remove a screw in a clamp holding the return line on top of the swingarm. Just for fun, I flushed a little WD-40 through the supply and return hoses to see what would come out. The return hose looked clean, but I got a little bit of shavings out of the supply hose. I'm still contemplating how I'm going to go about cleaning out the swingarm oil tank. I'm thinking I'll attach some sort of "swab" to a dowel or piece of coat hanger wire and swish it around the bottom as much as I can through the dipstick hole. I also figure I'll dump at least a quart or two of kerosene or something similar into it and swish that around, followed with a flush by a quart or so of motor oil. For a little "pre-cleaning", I dumped a few ounces of leftover Shell Rotella I had into it and shook the bike a little. What came out looked very clean, but I took the magnetic end of the drain plug and let the oil run across it and found a few filings. Next, I took a few photos of the wiring harness to try to get an idea of what might be involved in adapting the 12R harness to this, if it's even possible. Here's a shot of the tail end of the bike (most of the dust is pine tree pollen which was deposited over the month of March):  Here's the ECM area:  Here's the engine wiring area:  Hand written number inside the frame- I wonder what it signifies?:  Here's the wiring under the front of the frame:  Here's the wiring on the left front of the bike where it goes around the steering neck and into the front fairing:  The main difference in the XB12R wiring harness versus the XB12X is that the ECM and fuse/relay box are located in the fairing on the front of the R, while they're located under the seat on the X. I figure that puts the two major components about 2 feet from where they should be. It also means these two major pieces are immediately adjacent to the ignition switch on the R, while they're separated by 2 feet or so on the Uly. A further complication is that the fairing is mounted to the frame on the R, while it's attached to the forks on the X. Wires that need to move on the X don't need to move on the R. The wiring for the tail light and rear signals is a bit different (the R has a separate rear harness) but that would probably be simple to work around using part of the 07 Uly harness. The other thing is the R is missing the accessory outlets that the Uly uses; however, they're powered from the "auxiliary" circuit on the X and the R has one of those, so that could be worked out. I figure after I get the engine, I'll take the R wiring harness and drape it over the bike and see what I think. I won't tear into it unless there appears to be a reasonable chance it can be adapted. Meanwhile, I waiting to hear from the ebay parting out the 08X to see if he's going to have a wiring harness available. Hopefully, my "new" engine will be here in a week or so. | ||
| Luftkoph |
good time to thermo tech the inside of that frame | ||
| Hughlysses |
Good point. The right rear inside is covered already, but it could stand to be "touched up" and more of the frame done as well. | ||
| Froggy |
Black textured powder coat? | ||
| Tootal |
Hugh, As far as cleaning the oil tank I remember Harley use to require you to flush it with kerosene and then refill on the older bikes back when the tank was up high and not under the transmission. Basically the Evo engines. You might want to just fill it with kerosene and let it sit till you're ready to hook it up. Might have to put some plugs in the hoses before you fill it. I'm only saying that cause it sounds like something I would forget!! | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Hugh, I keep getting failure notices from your email. I was sending pdf's as well, cause pictures are more fun Here are the part numbers: The clutch cable is different as well. It is coated. All I have lubed so far is the pivit point on the end of the cable, and have had no problems. Throttle Cables: N0307.3AK Cable, throttle control N0308.3AK Cable, idle control Clutch cable: 38726-09 Clutch Cable Scoop: M0070.3AA SCOOP, oil cooler | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Hugh, Is that pollen all over your ULY? | ||
| Sayitaintso |
It certainly looks like pine pollen...it is that time of year, spring in the south. Hugh, keep up the good work posting your progress. I've learned more about my Uly from you and this thread than I'd care to admit. Thank you. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Yep, thoroughly coated in pine pollen, which thankfully stopped coming down about 3 weeks ago. Glad you guys are enjoying the thread. I really appreciate all the comments. Apparently my "new" engine will be here tomorrow. I have to go to the local Fedex freight terminal and pick it up. | ||
| Buellhusker |
Hughlysses, I do have some experience in cleaning dry sump oil tanks (sprint car racing) To clean the tank plug the in-out attachment points, put in the drain plug put in some diesel/kerosene/mineral spirits (your choice) then use a air line with on/off control with a small diameter stinger long enough to reach into the fill hole to the bottom of the oil reserve and use the air to agitate the fluid the loosen any debris and get it into suspension so you can then drain the fluid out the drain hole. I would drain this into/though a white coffee filter to check for any debris. I would do this as many times as necessary to come up a clean filter. | ||
| Motorbike |
Hughlysses, since you have your bike almost completely disassembled anyway, would it be much more work to just remove the swingarm completely? Then you could fill it with kerosene, shake it and dump it several times until it comes out clean. Just a thought. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Jim- thanks for that suggestion; that should work great. I think I've got such a gizmo lying around that I bought as part of a kit a couple of years ago. Al- yea, I've thought about doing that too. It would be kind of awkward to do now but it could be done. I'm actually not finding much metal at all in the swing arm. For one thing anything that got to the swing arm has already been pulverized by the scavenging section of the oil pump. I kind of suspect something happened like the bearing cage failed, which dumped a lot of metal into the oil all at once. That got circulated until the majority of it got cleaned out by the filter. Judging from what I found floating around in the engine sump and swingarm, very little additional metal got put into the oiling system after the initial failure. I think I'll try Jim's suggestion and if that doesn't get all the stuff out in a couple of flushes, I'll move on to removing the swingarm completely. I thought I'd found a new wiring harness for ~$150 on ebay today but the part number's not right. It's P/N Y0136.5AC while the 09 Uly is P/N Y0136.3AK. I suspect I'll be paying a visit to my dealer before the end of the week. | ||
| Rdkingryder |
Hugh, whenever you get a chance, can you send the guy with the crank email address to me? I'd like to connect with him about the crank. Thanks. The bike has been sitting for over a week, just started it today and it sure didn't fix itself, seemed even noisier.  (Message edited by rdkingryder on April 12, 2011) |
