Author |
Message |
Lloydxt
| Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2011 - 10:13 pm: |
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About a month ago I was getting a loud click on heavy front braking. So I did the steering adjustment and re-torqued the rotor which seemed to work for a couple weeks then it just kind of got all sloppy in there. So last weekend I replaced the bearings. Harley quoted me 4 hrs labor but it only takes about 2 (not as difficult as I thought it was gonna be). I was gonna use the socket method for installation but came up with this... I took the inner race and bearings out of the old bearing and used the outside race to tap them in. Now Im sure Im not the first to do this but wanted to throw it out there because it worked out great! ...and no, I didnt take off the front module like the book says |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2011 - 10:15 pm: |
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Could you give me a short guidance on how you did it as i need to do it for a friend. Thanks. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2011 - 10:52 pm: |
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Dave, Looks like I'm going to be doing it this spring. How far did you take the front end apart? |
Ourdee
| Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2011 - 11:27 pm: |
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I have a piece of 3/4" all-thread that I planned on doing the seating with. What did the new bearings run for the pair? |
Lloydxt
| Posted on Saturday, March 26, 2011 - 11:54 pm: |
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You just have to take off the headlight assembly. After wheel, forks and upper clamp are removed, pull the lower clamp out and zip tie the upper clamp to the bolts that run through the steering head to hold it up. see picture (I used two zip ties) The handle bars will sit on top of the front module. I used blue painters tape all over anything that would possibly get scuffed (handle bars and top of module). (Message edited by lloydxt on March 27, 2011) |
Lloydxt
| Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 12:02 am: |
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New bearings from American Sportbike http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17171.html (Message edited by lloydxt on March 27, 2011) |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 12:34 pm: |
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New steering bearings make a huge difference. Mine pretty much died last year after I did my annual wash and parked it wet, next day the bars would barely move.The inner races were very stuck to the stem and it took a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet to free it up. Took the bearings apart after removal, whatever grease had been in there was now rust. Inspection of the new bearings showed some wimpy greasing IMHO:
Repacked with my favorite stuff:
Added o-rings to the outer collars:
Voila! Steering head bearing overkill! Antiseized the races inner and outer, also the steering stem, should be pretty water resistant now. As a warning, be careful when twisting all that wiring around in there while r&r'ing the bearings. I stressed it and afterward had to again go into the harness and fix a break. |
Tootal
| Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 01:39 pm: |
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This is similar to the factory tool. Basically some heavy washers that touch the outside diameter of the bearing and fit in the bore and some all thread and nuts will get the job done too. Tapping them in while touching the OD only obviously works too. It's best to put a large flat piece over the ring so you put equal pressure all the way around as you tap them in. |
Jhallgren
| Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 03:04 pm: |
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What are you guys using to pull the old bearings out? |
Lloydxt
| Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 04:12 pm: |
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Long screwdriver and hammer. They come out pretty easily. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2011 - 04:44 pm: |
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I was planning on a little warmth from my heat gun if they didn't move out easy. Hopefully they will come out with a light tap. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2011 - 06:30 pm: |
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If my old ones last till HC, maybe I can get Loose_1 to install them at the campgrounds while I'm out riding his Blast. |