| Author | Message | ||
     Metaldude |
I'm rotating my engine for the first time on my '06 so that I can take the headers off for jet-coating. Looking for two sets of tips: I'm going to follow the manual exactly, but are there any tips or tricks not specified in the manual? As long as I have the engine down, is there any service I should do to take advantage of the situation? For example, I'm thinking I'll check out and throw in new plugs if necessary simply because it takes a rotation to do that job. Any other jobs I should consider while it's in the exposed condition? Thanks! | ||
| 7873jake |
It shouldn't take a rotation to throw in new plugs but if you're in there, why not. Off the top of my head... Rocker box gaskets Intake manifold seals If the rocker boxes look tight and oil free, I think I *might* let that sleeping dog do his thing... | ||
| Hughlysses |
E-mail Al Lighton at American Sport Bike for some tips in minimizing the work if all you want to do is remove and replace your headers. You can leave some things connected that the book says you have to disconnect if you're careful. If you want to do anything more than the headers, you probably need to follow the manual. I did my first one a couple of weeks ago and it was easier than I expected. The only minor complication I ran into was that the locking tabs on the connector for the TPS snapped right off when I was disconnecting it; the plastic was very brittle. I'll just run a zip-tie around it when I put it back together to ensure it stays that way. | ||
| Ddaleuly |
There's a good thread on the XB board on how to rotate - a lot of stuff in the manual isn't required, especially to just r/r the header. Did mine to get the header Jet Hot coated a couple of years ago. As Hugh said, Al will be very helpful and will know all the parts you'll need. Good Luck! | ||
| Metaldude |
Update: I was able to remove the headers without rotating the engine.  However, I have the entire seat, seat pan and seat rails off my bike already so I'm not sure if I saved any time or if this is applicable to others. The key was to get the fan out of the frame so I could easily reach the two bolts and O2 sensor on the rear header through the fan tube. A flexible socket driver attachment is a must. Now the headers and muffler are at the ceramic coating place. They say it will be ready by the end of the week. Whoo-hoo!! | ||
| Motorbike |
Metaldude, can you tell me where you are getting the jet coating done in the Minneapolis area? Also, will you please post some pics of the muffler after you get it coated? I have a feeling I will need this done sometime on my XT. Thank you. | ||
| Uly_dude |
Good job Sean. Glad you're figuring all this out for me! Yes, send us some pics. And then let's go for a ride this summer. | ||
| Metaldude |
I got the header and muffler back from the shop today (only took him 3 days!). I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. My muffler was super rusty and pitted, so those pits are still visible. But that was my assumption going into this. Also, I had a small dent and scratch from where I laid it down last year. That actually faded really well. The shop I got it done at is New Image Coating in Lino Lakes. http://www.newimagecoating.com Only $145 for all sand blasting prep work and ceramic coating both the headers and the muffler. Probably much cheaper if guys are looking just to coat their headers.   | ||
| Motorbike |
Metaldude, that looks great! Please keep us updated on how well this holds up with use. I was thinking of having only the muffler done, not the header, as it is stainless and will not rust anyway. If (when) my muffler gets rusty, I will probably have the same company do mine. So far mine only has a couple little spots of rust near the inlet. Looks like they did a great job on yours. Thanks! |
