| Author | Message | ||
     Motorbike |
Guys, I would like your opinion on something. On previous bikes, I have always changed oil and filter as part of my winter storage routine, regardless of mileage. My XT is the first bike that I have ever used synthetic oil in. I have about 2,000 miles on the Amsoil 20W-50 that is currently in the crankcase. The bike is stored in my heated workshop which never is below 40 degrees F. Amsoil is about $10/qt. in this area. Minnesota winters suck. I am looking at 3 options: 1. Change oil and filter now. 2. Change oil and filter when I remove the bike from storage in spring. 3. Do nothing now, just change oil at the regular 3,000 mile interval, sometime next year. Any thoughts? Thank you. | ||
| Etennuly |
I would recommend #2. That way when you start riding you will have removed any sediment in the oil and moisture that can accumulate over winter. Some might recommend #1 to reduce the chances of sediment being in the oil, but with only 2000 on synthetic oil I doubt there would be much. #3 not so much, if moisture did accumulate it would turn your oil into a pasty milkshake before you got ten miles, but you would not know it before riding. | ||
| Motorbike |
Thanks Etennuly. I really wonder though how much moisture I will accumulate since the bike is stored in a heated shop. I do turn the heat up to about 62 degrees when working out there but turn it back down to 40 degrees when I'm not. I always thought condensation would be a problem only if the temp fluctuated between freezing and something warmer? Maybe I should just change it now and stop being so cheap? Thanks! | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I don't think it really matters which of your 3 options you end up doing. Probably what would be more important is that your last ride before storage is a long enough ride that engine and transmission is hot enough that all condensate is removed so no acids can eat at the engine internals. Do whatever you feel so that it won't wear on your mind. Personally I'd probably check the condition of the oil at the dipstick and if the oil doesn't look filthy and there is no foamy goop on the dipstick then I would just wait until spring and ride until the regular 3,000 mile interval. Why waste $25 worth of expensive Amsoil before its time. Again, just do whatever makes you not fret. Usually the only time I short shift the miles on a oil change is when I'm going to go on a long trip and don't even want to think about oil changes out on the road. | ||
| Motorbike |
Before I parked the bike for winter, I added some Seafoam to a full tank of gas and rode about twenty minutes. I wanted to be sure the Seafoam got into the injectors and, as usual, decided to just go for a little spin since I had the bike out anyway. The oil on the dipstick looks new yet but as we all know, you cannot see any acids by just doing a visual check. The only problem I see with changing oil now, besides the cost, is that I like to get my engine real warm before draining the oil. There is no way I'm taking my bike out for a ride now with the ice and salt all over our roads. I guess I will probably just wait until spring and change it then. Besides, it will give me a chance to watch for Amsoil at a sale price. Might save 3 bucks, ya know! Thank you. | ||
| Tootal |
I have never changed my oil in the Winter. If it's dry and the temps are above freezing I'll take a ride. My garage is the same, never freezes. I put 156,000 on my 91 Harley and the bottom end was still solid and that was over 14 years. I never did any type of winter storage routine. IMO it's a waste of good, and expensive, oil. | ||
| Ronmold |
Amsoil has a very potent corrosion & moisture resistant additive package, enough to extend their car oils to 25k miles! We pay a lot for those additives and the engineering behind them, let them do their job. I'm with Tootal & Electro on this one, save the money for gas. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Personally, I would think your crazy to change out now. Storage temps don't go below 40? Your good to go. Get in a good long ride like EG say's before you store it. An hour or more, and things will be just fine. And only 3000 miles on Amsoil. I think your not getting your money's worth. 5000 at least. Amsoil is a very good product, let it do it's job. Some here have paid to have an oil analysis done on amsoil at 5000, and the results clearly, and over a pattern of time show that many mores miles could have been run. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Just give me an electric motorcycle so all I have to worry about is plugging it in. Chances are that no one is going to give me one  | ||
| Froggy |
I'm in the just leave it camp. The oil will be fine. | ||
| Ourdee |
I change to the lighter oil for winter and back to the thicker in the spring. Usually get 2500 miles on it from fall change to spring change. I am thinking about doing the AMsoil for winter. Is there a BadWebber with 3 quarts of 10w40 near me? North Central Illinois. | ||
| Luftkoph |
motorbike I use amsoil and last year 2009 I had about 1k on a fresh oil and filter change,and then put it away for winter in a heated area.Then the following spring 2010 did noting but ride it all summer and at about 4k changed oil and filter and had oil sample sent to a lab.The report said oil looked very good little high in silver(a buell thing)but keep doing what your doing. So this time I'am going to run it to maybe 5k or 7k and see how it looks. | ||
| Jphish |
3K mi oil changes with AMS oil ?? Unnecessary. I run mine at least 5K. And don't worry if I go over a bit, if I'm in middle of a trip. But thats just me. | ||
| Tootal |
Agreed, 5000 with Amsoil on the bikes, 10,000 in my car! At 10,000 miles the Amsoil in my car is a 1/2 qt. low and you can still see through it. The bikes with 5000 miles have dark oil so it's a matter of air cooled verses water cooled and 5 quarts compared to 2.5. That's where oil analysis is a great thing. | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Okay, tattle tell on myself: This year I went 8K on Amsoil 20-50 for V-twin. Not what I planned on doing, just happened that way. And not what I plan to do again. Anyway - When I changed it, it was dirty no question. However there was very little "usage". The bike ran fantastic the entire time. I was skeptical about spending the cash, but after hearing others, seeing other's results of OA done, and my own experience I am a believer. But... For the winter I'm running mobile1. 1QT 10-40 (got on close out) & 1.5QT 15-50. I ride all year, have had good results with mobile1, and believe this is a good winter blend here in Northern Arkansas. | ||
| Missin44 |
Option 3. Using Amsoil isn't even relevant to the question. Garage heated or not isn't relevant. Just do what owners manual or any new service bulletins recommend. | ||
| Uly_man |
I do not know how long you store the bike for but if it makes you feel any better just change it out. 40, 60 or whatever its not a problem so do not worry on it. Other things that help but are not critical. If you store it for more than four weeks clean it first, disconnect the battery (it will drain out) and run the engine every now and then. I see no need to use a synthetic oil in a XB motor anyway. It was not designed for its use or is it needed. I use Torco myself and is plenty good enough. Plus a K&N KN-177 oil filter. The only condensation I get is a little on the dip-stick, oil/water emulsion, from short runs and is known about with these bikes. I also think I was getting some in the plug leads because after sealing them I have had no further problems. The best idea is just to change the oil/filter every 2500 miles. Its very easy to do and costs no more, with normal oil, than any other bike in its class. The engine needs 4000 to 6000 miles to run in and these oil/filter changes are needed most during that time. After that the HD change at 5k is probably fine. The XB engine gives the oil a much harder time than most bikes and things like dry sumps, oil coolers and hydraulic lifters need good oil flow and clean oils. (Message edited by uly_man on November 29, 2010) | ||
| Motorbike |
Thank you guys for all your opinions. As you can see, they vary quite a bit. From what I gather, I'm quite sure the oil will be fine even if I do not change it right away in spring and run it to 5,000 miles. I am just very meticulous with my bikes and baby them a little too much. Don't get me wrong though, I do love to accelerate hard and love curvy roads as well, especially on the Buell. With all that said, I will probably change the oil in the spring and it will last me most of the summer. I was only able to put 5200 miles on it this year but that was all recreational. For reasons too numerous to mention, I only ride it to work about once or twice a year. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I'm in the every 5000 mile camp... plus its easy to keep track of | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I'm in the 5000 Mile group too. Worked well for the tuber, working well for the 2008 too. And yes. very easy to remember when to change the oil this way. |
