Garage door openers use 12 volt batteries! Whodathunkit? I'm taking my chances that the 14 volts our charging system puts out wont cause it to catch fire!
Power wires run to a fused positive line and a ground, and the two switch wires run to an auxiliary mounted switch. Hide the opener out of sight and away from the elements (mine went beneath the flyscreen, with some padding around it to keep it from vibrating and bouncing around). The required switch is a standard two wire momentary push button type that must be of the normally open (N.O.) variety. I bought mine from radio shack for $3.
It'd be easy enough to add a 12v regulator (or any other V regulator depending on what your opener wants). It's straightforward, but pickign the right one can have some subtle dragons... look for an LDO (low drop out) regulator from Newark or somewhere.
I have mine garage door opener hooked up to the "Flash to Pass" switch through a double tap "Auto Switch". I also have my Auxiliary Lights hooked to the "Flash to Pass" with a single tap "Auto Switch". One long press (about 1 second) and the Aux lights go on, two quick taps and the garage door opens!!!
Works great!!! No extra buttons to clutter the dash, it still looks stock.
BTW...my friends thought that my headlights were opening the garage door! It was pretty funny watching them flashing their lights at my door!!!
I don't know which brand of garage door opener you have but generally they are not very sensitive to battery voltage. The receivers are super-regenerative with a receive bandwidth of about 1.5 MHz. A little frequency shift won't hurt you and I think the main effect of varying voltage would be a variation in range. I suspect that the components would survive operation on 12 V instead of nine.
Thanks nerd, I broke my push button that opens the door from my bike. You reminded me I need to fix it. I am thinking about just wiring the flash to pass to supply power to where the battery is, and wiring the push button in the on position.
Hangetsu, put in a 9v lithium & wire the button contacts to a new dash switch or flash-to-pass button . A lithium in a garage opener should last 10 yrs! Ourdee, I did mine your way, just 2 wires needed but I used a switch where Mikef put his.
Taidan used to make this real cool rolling code door opener. I bought one for my first Uly in 2006. When I traded the 06 Uly on my 2008 1125r I removed the opener and tried to install it on my 1125r. I forgot how to program it and it sat on my bench for a while. than I bought the 2009 Uly and found some instructions to program it. Its on my Uly now and what really cool about it the unit is hooked to my high beam. I just hit the high beam about a block from my house and the door is open. It also shuts off in 30 seconds so I can run the high beams for a long time without hurting the device. The only problem is that if I leave for work when its dark I have to get a mile from home before hitting the high beam so I don't come home from work with a door that has been open all day.
Taidan closed many years ago, if you do a search on motorcycle garage openers there are many plans out there for home made openers.
Whoa everyone, are your batteries wearing out that fast? I've had my remote clipped on the side of the handguard for two years and it hasn't stopped yet. I'm sure when it does quit I can find another battery for less than $5.
Posted on Wednesday, November 24, 2010 - 08:12 pm:
I think any of my bikes would shake one to bits in no time if it was on the bike. I've always wanted one actually on the bike and have thought about things like packing the board with silicone or something but the jacket pocket seems to keep working for me. There was a thread somewhere where they took the case off the garage door opener, much like that 12v air compressor idea. Mounted it behind a flyscreen or inside a headlight bucket or something.
I don't know why you'd need to take the case off. I've got three HID ballasts, a stebel air horn, two relays, and some other crap under my flyscreen, and there was still plenty of room for this opener. I'd much rather leave the case on for protection. Also, I wrapped it in foam before sticking it in it's place to stop any rough vibrations or bouncing.
Hey Tootal, would you mind explaining how you got your trip meter/clock to toggle using the flash-to-pass switch? Do your headlights still flash when you use the switch? Or is it now only used for the clock/meter? Thanks.
Uly dude, the switch only works the toggle now. You have to cut the wire from the switch and solder onto a new wire. Here is a link to the original thread I did. There are some pictures and what I found. There is also a lot of inside humor since we had just got back from Buelltoberfest III!
Well I took the easy way out and just fixed my broken switch. Still running it on it's own battery. This way I don't have to turn the ignition on to use the opener.
Thanks Tootal! This is exactly what I needed for both my farkle-on-the-cluster projects this winter. I have that same voltmeter LED I want to install on my cluster to. You guys are a wealth of information! Greg
Any risk of frying the electronics of the opener? Inspired by this thread I just put my opener under the flyscreen with only the battery power. It's one of those key fob sized Liftmasters and it wasn't cheap, so I don't want to burn it up. With the battery it'll now open my garage door from two houses away, something it could never do from my jacket pocket.
If you pulled a 12 volt battery out then hardwired it, you really shouldn't hurt anything, although in the end, you're running close to 14 volts into it, so anything's possible.