| Author | Message | ||
     Druelly |
Uly XB12X 11,500 miles. I am going to number my questions for my purposes, so I don't confuse myself, and maybe responders could reference them. While getting off highway in 5th gear I started to downshift, or so I though. Could not find the peddle. Looked down and it was dangling straight down as the pivot bolt had worked itself loose and fallen out. I was 3 miles from home. Stopped the bike tried to shift it with my hand, and no luck. I drove home in 5th gear and am now sorry I did. Adjusted the Cable, with minor increases in performance, but still slips slightly. 3rd, 4th, and 5th, slip the second I twist the throttle. but eventually when I bring the throttle back I can get the clutch to catchup to the engine RPM. I did a hacker job on the shift lever with a sleeve and a 5/16" bolt till I get the parts. Questions: 1: Has anyone had any clutch slippage issue that was not the cable? 2: Has anyone adjusted the adjusting screw and gotten any results? 3: Has anyone pulled all the plates out, and found them to be in spec, but still slipping (glazed them while allowing clutch slippage)? 4: I heard once a while back that you can remove the plates and scuff up the pads reinstall and they will work again. IE: removing the glaze. Would anyone recommend that option. Keeping in mind that I really would only want to do this if it would work for a while. Taking apart and putting back together to test is not my idea of fun, only to have to do it again. 5: Has anyone actually purchased the recommended Spring Compressor Tool as referenced on page 6-10 & 11 of the service manual? Any suggested tools if not? 6:Is anyone aware that anything you do to this bike could result in death or serious injury. (as referenced about 3 times a page in the SM. thanks and sorry for the long post Druelly | ||
| Ratbuell |
1: yes 2: yes 3-5: haven't had to go that far. 1 and 2 work just fine for me. 6: yes. Starting with hitting the start button LOL | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Do you often or have you done extended sessions of off road work with your Uly? I replaced my clutch around 22,000 miles. Most of the plates looked good. The plate closest to the base (clutch side) of the clutch basket is only half the width of the rest of the clutch plates. There is a spacer ring taking up the other part of the inner clutch ring. The next two out were in various stages of wear. You can buy individual clutch plates if yours are worn. For the price, I would just buy a complete clutch plate set. I used the one from Energy One with good results. The inner plate on my kit replaced the half ring and gave a much better lock up in my estimation. You can make a clutch puller from a PVC pipe end cap: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/589522.html?1283748753 Many here also have the puller and would be willing to lend it to you. DO NOT attempt to pull your clutch without it. What lubricant are you using in the primary? | ||
| Etennuly |
I have seen a couple of shifters loose a screw. I carry a small pair of vise grips in my tool kit. Such a handy tool. Can make a temporary shifter in a pinch. I know that doesn't help now. Sorry I cannot help with your issue. | ||
| Hughlysses |
It seems really odd that you had what should be two completely unrelated problems at the same time (loss of shifter pivot bolt and suddenly the clutch is slipping). Since the "minor clutch adjustment" (cable) didn't help, definitely start out by trying the "major clutch adjustment" in the manual. While you've got the clutch cover off to do the adjustment, you should check the condition of your primary cover. A very few people have had a lip inside the cover break which impedes the clutch from disengaging properly. If it does turn out to be that, Odie came up with an easy fix/improvement or you can replace the entire cover. If your cover is fine and the adjustment doesn't help, then worry about changing clutch plates. Oh yea, on point #6, I think there are about 438 things in the owner's manual that could result in death or serious injury. | ||
| Itileman |
The shifter lever coming loose seems to be a common problem. Lost the bolt & shim on my 09 in Colorado last year approaching Monument Pass. Had an RV repair shop fab one up for me and that has held for over a year. Recently replaced it with the factory rig (with red Locktite) and keep the fab job for back up. | ||
| Swampy |
I just made a clutch compressor out of a 3 inch PVC coupling and 5/16 threaded rod, and a 5/16 coupling bolt, three 5/16 nuts and washers. I used a chunk of 2X4 to pull from on the oposite end to cover the 3 inch PVC coupling. It cost all of $12 dollars to make and worked just fine. I made it up in ten minutes. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Uly flyscreen bolts will hold the shifter together, by the way... | ||
| Jessemc |
Ratbuell: Uly flyscreen bolts will hold the shifter together, by the way. That's good to know. I got the dangling shift lever experience on my very first early morning commute on the Uly, the day after I bought it. Austintown HD sent me a replacement bolt but I've still got the fine-threaded nut and bolt I picked up at a hardware store in there. | ||
| Steveford |
You just need to adjust the clutch at the adjuster inside the primary is all. There's not enough free play in there so your clutch is continuing to slip. This is a good time to lube the cable and replace the trans fluid, too, as it's going to smell rather pungent from slipping the clutch for so long. If you use Mobil 1 15/50 you don't have to give any money to HarLee, either! While you're at it, remove the cable from the lever and grease up the barrel. I had one seize up in the lever and then it popped halfway up a hill in the ghetto one fine rush hour which was a treat. My shifter pinch bolt vanished soon after purchase so always use a drop of Purple Loctite on that one AND don't even think of disassembling that clutch pack without a compressor as the diaphragm spring will try and take your head off. (Message edited by SteveFord on October 02, 2010) | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you use Mobil 1 15/50 you don't have to give any money to HarLee, either! Dunno about that...I just run Syn3 in everything (six Buells in the garage, '95 to '09) and not only do I not have to worry about clutch plates, but I have yet to have a stator failure. BE CAREFUL what fluid you put in the primary. It ain't just a transmission in there. Jesse - we roadside-fixed an XB on the U.P. on the way to Homecoming earlier this year, that's how I "found" that little tidbit. Rode around with 5/6 of my bolts for damned near three months before I remembered to go to Home Depot!  (Message edited by ratbuell on October 03, 2010) | ||
| Skinstains |
1. yes 2. yes 3. no 4. no 5. no I made one out of a 3 3/4" hole- saw. 6. Really ? Holy Smokes ! Anyone want to buy a Death Trap ??? Adjust the clutch at the clutch and see what happens. If it still slips replace both the drive and driven plates with Alto-Carbonite plates and toss the 1/2 plate and the spring and spacer that go with it. I use Amsoil 20-50 in the engine and primary. | ||
| Druelly |
Okay so here it is, my own thread and I am not participating. My bad. Been under the weather. FT_B: I have not done any offroading as of yet, but am looking forward to finding some nice dirt roads and others of the like. I changed it after the clutch started slipping to Spectro Gear lube (All I could get my hands on at the time) in the Primary, but only as temporary fix to see if that was the problem. I will be changing it to Amsoil 10w 40 after I get the clutch issue resolved. Hugh: Only 438 things that could....? Steve: Thanks for the heads up about the smell. It unfortunately was a little to late. God that smell is awful. Ratbuell: What did you get at Home Depot that had 5/16 fine thread but also was big enough to hold the clutch pedal at the pivot point? Skin: As I Stated above, I threw in some Gear lube that I never heard of, just to see if that helped the problem, and it did not. Once the clutch problem is solved it will be Amsoil. | ||
| Skinstains |
Did your problem worsen immediately after putting in that wierd oil ? | ||
| Tootal |
I run 20/50 amsoil in both holes but some here are using 60 wt. engine oil in the primary/tranny with good results. Better shifting and no clutch problems. I'm going to try that as my shifting is pretty clunky. Don't use gear oil in the primary as they will screw up the coatings on the stator and it will short out. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Druelly, Get that gear lube OUT of your primary. It may be GL-5 type API rating, and that is claimed to be a no-no that can hurt the stator (by attacking the epoxy that holds the magnets in, IIRC). That is why the manual tells you to use Formula+, but lots of folks on this board use other motor oil (Mobil 1) in 15W50/20W50 types that are not GL-5. I recently switched to a synthetic Castrol 20W50 mostly because I have no dealer nearby, and do not wish to support H-D any more than I have to. As for clutch, mine failed at 9K miles, and I wrote up an extensive account of my experience in replacing the plates using Energy One parts. I had problems with their kit NOT being a direct replacement for Buell stock parts. The Energy One steel plates were not the same thickness. The Energy One fiber plates were OK, and I am still using them, except that I went back to the stock inner "narrow" plate and spacer/washer to eliminate a shudder I had at low speeds. Look in the Knowledge Vault under Drivetrain and Clutch to find my post on Energy One clutch replacement problems and solution. My clutch has been good for about 12K miles since this repair. I fried mine on a jeep trail after only a few miles. With new clutch and lower (XB9) gearing, I am very happy now. Replacing the clutch plates (if you need to after trying the clutch screw adjustment first) is not very difficult, but you do need some sort of diaphragm spring compressor tool. I bought the one that American Sportbike sells. Much cheaper than the H-D one, and worked fine for me once I cleaned up the threads. Good luck. | ||
| Druelly |
Some additional less technical questions. Yes I am still working on the clutch. It took me this long to get it apart with my lack of brain power and mechanical ability. Now that I have done it once, it does not seem so nerve racking! The original specs on the clutch fiber plates would really be helpful at this point to figure out how much wear has really occurred. If anyone knows it, could they please chime in? While taking off the diaphragm spring, I found two pieces of what I thought were remainders of a ring, but turned out to be from the inside of the primary cover. By looking at the inside, I found them missing from the area on the left and right of the hole the adjustment screw comes out. I'm going to try to get those Tig welded back on but just in case, what is the cost of the primary cover if available? Not sure how those two pieces broke but my goal is too put it back together and not look back at what happened. Once again any help would be much appreciated. Summary: Thickness of OEM Fiber Plates, and price and availability of Primary Cover. Thanks to those of you that have had a hand in getting this novice through this. I guess that would be all of you. Dreully | ||
| Druelly |
I am putting this topic to bed for some time now as I am putting my bike up for the year. Cant afford all the parts to put it back together till after x-mas. I'll be ready for early spring! Druelly | ||
| Debueller |
Hmmmm....... Another broken primary cover. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/530855.html#POST1706193 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/282980.html | ||
| Arcticktm |
Druelly, When you are ready, check out my post in the Knowledge Vault, as mentioned previously. In it, I attached a spreadsheet with all the measurements you ask, and then some. the specs are also in the SM. Fiber plates are .0866-.0897" thick new. Steel plates are .0629-.0649" thick new. Allowable wear is measured on the entire stack of fiber plates, and is .661" minimum. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/456488.html?1272473363 |
