| Author | Message | ||
     Xcephasx |
Hi guys- I have extensively searched before posting.  Hoping someone can either help me with this, or direct me to the thread that may have already beaten it to death as i think that flordialime, froggy and etenuly may have some of these same problems?: I ride an 06 ulysses. k&n/open airbox stock pipe stock 07 map around 25k miles 20/50 full synthetic las vegas, nv After riding for a half hour to 45 minutes, my bike has a tendency to start lurching or surging. i have had problems with the cel/skip-spark phenomenon that some others have had, but i believe i have isolated that glitch to one of the R/Y wires that was rubbed raw on the old bank angle sensor mount. after taping it up, no cel/ skip-spark. i thought my problems were solved once i had found that gremlin, but apparently not. my bike stopped charging last week and i found that my 77 connector was pretty well hashed. i opened it up and bent the clips to where they would make contact. that fixed the charging problem, but i think i'm replacing that connector anyways. this problem is hard to describe, or replicate. it may be my imagination, but it seems that the lurching is sometimes triggered by bumps in the road. i'm contemplating if i'm more or less bouncing up and down on my ecm, causing trouble. i have a spacer (old socket) between the ecm and the seat, but i fear i'm still putting weight on it. i think that heat may have something to do with it, so i just programed my eeprom to run the fan when it hits 120. any ideas or suggestions are welcome. thanks in advance sean | ||
| Gamdh |
Last winter I had an issue where after riding for a while, I would get the stutter, lurch etc.. As I was riding to/from work, it would happen.. seemed to happen around the same area. So my theory was this...it was cold it took the bike longer to warm up. When it got to a certain temp range, I would actually get an air intake leak.. temp would get higer and it would be ok after a while. It was getting progressivly worse.... pretty strange actually. I replaced the air intake seals and in my case, it corrected the problem? Of course.. could have just been a coincidence?? | ||
| Conchop |
Re-route the breather TPS reset Double check oil level | ||
| Etennuly |
If that 77 connector was burned, cut it out and solder the wires(one at a time so that they stay properly oriented). That needs an actual fix, not a band-aid. You could chase problems all over and come back to a half fix. Check your codes. Check the wiring harness around the top of the engine for wires rubbed through, the ETS wire for wear through on the head and the o2 wire for wear through on the head. There is a place where these two join together in the harness and will rub through together. Check the plugs at the ECM for wires rubbing through to each other. Make sure the seat is not pressing on the ECM, you should be able to move it if needed. Look for the wires under the plug mass in front of the front sprocket to where they go forward towards the oil filter, there is a sharp edge on the muffler bracket that can eat through them, and look at the cam sensor wires where they run over that bracket and where they come out by the chin faring. | ||
| Etennuly |
When it does it's stupid thing, put your hand down by the oil plug area, if you can, to feel if the fan really is running. If you are into over heating the fan may not be running even though you have it working at it's start threshold. My fan would come on for a second or two then go off just as it was needed to continue. A new ECM did not fix the problem, the only solution that actually stayed has been manually switching the fan. Many things, like fixing that same yellow and orange wire, gave me no more than a temporary fix. That is the part that I cannot yet understand. It would do the Fl/R/S as in overheat, and many times a wiring problem would fix it.....for a couple of hundred miles, then it would come back as if nothing had been done. Fix another wire or whatever, repeat the scene. The only thing that has solved it thus far is the fan manual switch. | ||
| Flwindsurf |
I run rough when I get hot, too.  Since the ECM is underneath my fat ass, the dealer had to replace the ECM and modify the seat so the new ECM wouldn't take a beating. My doctor's gonna love hearing my Buell mechanic is now telling me to lose weight...sigh. | ||
| Xcephasx |
bypassed &crimped the 77 connector tps/afv reset checked timing verified fan operation while riding checked intake seals with starter fluid looked under airbox for frayed wires/ shorts looked near ecm for shorts disabling the o2 sensor via ecmspy aggravated the problem disabling "white wire" made no noticeable difference *also, with the bike not running, but on (w/kill switch on "run") my fuel pump cycles if i tap on the ecm or jiggle the wires within the proximity of the ecm. no visibly broken wires. bad ecm? i'm losing my mind over this one... | ||
| Od_cleaver |
Xcep..., Since a bump seems to trigger your problem, I would eliminate the ECM to seat pan interference first. My '07 came with a plastic rectangular spacer block on the front ECM support. Does your bike have this block? On my '07 with the original seat, the seat pan was rubbing against the rear ECM connector. I have a different seat on the bike now (seat pans look like they came out of the same mold), but there is no more rubbing. The original seat pan bows down and the replacement seat pan bows up. Check yours with your socket fix in place. I painted the top of my connector and looked for rub marks from the replacement seat. Heat and weight may cause the seat pan to rub more. So, take it for a long ride. At least one person on this board besides Flwindsurf has cut his seat pan to provide more ECM clearance. I think that this person found his ECM or connector cracked. Press down one the ECM rear connector area and look for a hairline crack to open up. Another thought…. One other person on this board with a ’06 found that his seat pan had worn thru one or more wires on the ECM connector. My wires have been shoved down away from the seat (it came from the factory this way). | ||
| Methed |
Have you ruled out your fuel pump as the (or part of) issue? When the wires started wear through the insulation, mine exhibited a similar behavior to what you're describing. FWIW, I've just found that the issue cropped up again after having the pump essentially give-out at normal operating temp. Had to let it cool down, cycle ignition, then start back up just to get the bloody thing to prime. | ||
| Xcephasx |
cleav- lest i speak too soon, it looks like i may have solved this problem. i was aware of the the problem of seat pan interference... it really took a can of spray paint to put things into perspective though. -i had made a spacer, but until painting the seat pan, it wasn't readily apparent that the seat pan was impinging upon the grey connector. i preformed a "seat-ectomy" but it ended up compromising the integrity of the seat too much. after stewing on it for a bit, i fabricated a new pan out of a pen tray from an ikea desk. took it for a 45 minute ride at a solid 80-90 without incidence. so... tentatively, thank you sir. | ||
| Od_cleaver |
Xcep- and a tentative welcome back to you. | ||
| Xcephasx |
well cleav, i am 100% sure that you were right. i took the bike out this morning for a full shake down. didn't make it 5 miles away from my house before it started acting stupid. came back home and sawed off the ecm bolt hole flanges. then i velcroed the ecm onto the battery in the interstice between the fusebox and and the battery. went back out and rode 150 miles. had 1 minor little hiccup, but that was all. probably just everything settling into place. so i'll reluctantly call this one nipped in the bud. thanks again, sean |
