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Archive through July 08, 2010Whisperstealth30 07-08-10  05:52 pm
         

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Rwven
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whispey,

Here's a link showing a hole in one...

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/566539.html
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Nobuell
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bearings failures are due to a marginal design. This issue has been tossed about numerous times. Plain and simple, the bearings are on the edge for load capacity and are not properly sealed. There are many conditions that push the bearings over the edge. I had orange bearings that failed after almost 20K miles and much 2 up riding fully loaded. They were never greased but were checked at every tire change. 20K is at the high end of the reported failures. What did I do right or wrong for that matter.

Catastrophic failures can occur in bearings that are designed and applied properly. That type of failure is usually the result of manufacturing issues.

Consistent failures are an indication of a misapplication. Unfortunately, there is very little to be done with the old bearing design with exception to proactive replacement.

All of the conversation we have on this site is interesting and fun but short of a 2010 wheel will not solve the problem.

Also, what is up with the comment that an XT is not a good touring bike? My wife and I just returned from a long tour in southern Indiana on very twisty roads. The bike handles flawlessly and where does he get it feels top heavy?

My bike has had a couple issues including the wheel bearings but I would not trade it at this point. It is to much fun to ride.
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Rwven
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 07:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nobuell,

+1 on the XT being an excellent touring mount. Over an 8 day period, about two weeks ago, I put 4500 miles on mine including a 1050 mile day, a 700, mile day, a 900 mile day and an 850 mile day. I arrived home at the end of day eight feeling energized with no soreness, aches or pains anywhere.
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Dirt
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nobuell, first off I agree with your comments regarding the bearing design. Buell made a change for a reason. However, if you would have made those same comments three years ago you would have been labeled a whiner and a Buell hater. Probably would have been told you over torqued the rear wheel and to sell the bike if you didn't like it. It's funny how a few of the people, who back then claimed there was nothing wrong with the bearings, are now the biggest supporters of buying a 2010 wheel.
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Eulysses
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Three bearings probably handles load and side torque from accelerating better.
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Dennis_c
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 08:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How does most of you get the bearings out. A friend of mine said weld a bolt to the iner race then you could pound it out. Bearings that went bad 2 times on the rear wheel 1 time front wheel 33,ooo miles
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Hughlysses
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For bearing removal, you can buy a blind bearing puller kit from Harbor Freight for about $35, or you may be able to borrow or rent one from your local auto parts store.

Here's a link to some good info on bearings provided by Al Lighton of American Sport Bike:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=142838&post=1505281#POST1505281
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Idaho_buelly
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2010 - 10:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the Harbor Freight puller and it works well.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was going to start a new thread on bearings but thought I'd put my question here and see if it got a response.

I have an 07 Uly. It's on it's second set of bearings, the first set failed about 6K miles ago. The replacements are still the orange bearings.
Last night I changed my tire, and with the wheel off, thought it would be a good chance to check the bearings. They seem tight. I mean, TIGHT. I couldn't turn either side. Now, my hands were full of soap (tire lubricant) and anti-seize goop, but my fingers slid before the bearing would turn. Crap. Put the wheel back on, it turns ok. So, should the bearings turn freely with finger pressure? Is this normal for a set with 6K on them?
The wheel, when mounted, makes no 'clacking' noise when it turns, and there is no lateral motion in the wheel, as was the case with my old bearings.
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Smac
Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Skifastbadly,

The best way I was told to check the bearings is to stand your wheel up with your thumbs on the bearings ID's and roll the tire back & forth on the ground...if the bearings feel notchy & grindy, then it's time to replace them. The bearings are fairly tight from the manufacturer, so I would not necessarily be concerned if they are hard to turn by hand.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also, bear in mind that the spacer has to be lined up in order for everything to work right.
If it has no axle to line the stuff up, don't be surprised if there is a little binding.
I was faked out by this with my old X1.
The bearings were fine but felt awful with no axle.
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Dfera
Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 06:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

guys I'm new here, just doing some research before I purchases a used Uly. Are these the wheel bearings I keep seeing these threads on, and is there a certain year that has this design flaw?

Thanks
Dom
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Pso
Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 08:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First 06 OEM Uly's had orange seals, then Buell upgraded to black rubber seals (I think perhaps 08, but not sure), then the 2010 came out w/a 3 bearing wheel. So far I have not read about any failures of the new '10 wheel. A few failures on the black seals but mostly the orange seals. there have been several work arounds, eg. anti-seize on the bearing seals, weep hole drilled into wheel, proper torqueig technique when installing wheel, every tire change pry seal back and repack bearing. I had orange seals, I upgraded to black seal bearings at about 15K miles. A very, very little notchiness at the time. Easy to keep eye on. I have a 2010 wheel, which when I purchased from Al at American Sport bike, a sponsor here, had him press the bearings in and properly place the spacer, sitting in the box in my garage awaiting the tire to wear out on my present wheel. I think this is a minor issue compared to the electrical gremlins of the early Uly's.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, July 10, 2010 - 09:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good summary PSO. One more thing to add is that the spacer in the rear axle can be damaged by over torquing, which then side loads the bearings, and leads to failures.

I have an 07 uly with what looks like original bearings (I am the third owner of the bike, so who knows). I just ride it, visually inspect them and the front exhaust strap before every ride, and keep a new set of bearings and a new axle spacer in a box in the garage (thanks American Sportbike!)
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Nittanyxt
Posted on Tuesday, July 13, 2010 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well guys, I attempted to make a warranty claim on the rear wheel,sent umpteen pics of damage, they'll cover it,BUT dealer is 3 hours away and they want me to bring the whole bike down! Currently it is on stands in the garage with both wheels removed. Lets see,2 hours to put bike back together and load & hookup trailer,12+ hours of transport time,2 tanks of fuel in the pickup,who knows how long the bike sits there at the dealer,or just order a new wheel assy? Not to mention what else might happen to the bike while it's there! Ordered new wheel tonight from American Sport Bike. Rant over!
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