| Author | Message | ||
     Mattmcc00 |
Well this is the second time now that the Uly studders and runs only on 1 cylinder then 2 then 1 then 2 etc... when running in the rain. any ideas? electrical? | ||
| Teeps |
Plug wires. Helps with more info. year of bike miles etc... | ||
| Skifastbadly |
Mine stopped doing that when I eliminated the 77 connector. | ||
| Ejbeert |
do a search missing in the rain lots of ideas | ||
| Thesmaz |
Mine did that until I replaced the intake seals. | ||
| Bienhoabob |
Mine did it in the rain also. I found a hairline crack on the front sparkplug wire. Replaced the wire, everything went back to normal. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
I replaced my plug wires with magnecores and used a lot of dielectric grease at both ends. The stutter is gone. Rode 8 hours in steady rain. No problem...other than being miserable and cold. | ||
| Methed |
Mine did just that on the 'Last Ride' last October. Plugs, plug wires, electrical lube on these and the coil (and all other connectors while you're at it), and a good cleaning of the intake took care of it for me. It only cost me about twenty bucks and the thing runs like new. | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
Its a 2008 XB12X with 15,000km. Lots of ideas here... Plug wires, intake seal, cleaning the intake, eliminating the && connector??? (not sure what that is) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Plug wires are cheap and (relatively) easy. Go there first, I bet it fixes it. Intake seals are an easy diagnosis. Get the engine hot, let it idle, and spray carb cleaner at the seals where the intake meets the head. If your idle changes when you spray...found the leak. 77 connector is behind the front pulley cover, and connects the stator to the bike's electrical system. They like to melt due to poor contact. A search here on badweb will (should) turn up a ton of threads on replacement methods...but here's mine, from Home Depot, before I slid the heatshrink over top of them. 2 copper screw-terminal-connectors, spliced in place of the factory connector. Still removable if I have to replace a stator or a VR...but much more secure than the OEM setup:   | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
ok thx ratbuel, I have ordered the service manual but it still hasn't arrived yet. Once it does I will see about changing the sparkplug wires. you'll have to help me out with the intake seal and 77 connectors though (I am trying to self-suffient and dealer free, now that I have a garage and investing in tools, but i still have so much to learn). Are you refering to the air intake on top of the airbox? behind the front pully cover, ok but what does it look like prior to the fix? just another big black connector like the others in the phote? how do i know which one to fix? Thx, MMcC | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
from my searching badweb seems like the 77 connector is a pre 2008 problem. my Uly is a 2008, is the 77 connector and stator still and issue? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Stator isn't an issue per se...but I don't remember when they updated the 77 connector. If you look at my picture (the second one), you can see the wires going into the tops of the splices are one red, one black. They're thick wires. That's a giveaway if you don't have a manual. It's just a large, black, plastic connector otherwise (and the wires on the bottom are black/black - I painted the right one red on mine - MAKE A NOTE OF WHICH IS ON WHICH SIDE before you disassemble anything!). If you're having a problem with it...it'll be the one you can't unplug because the heat has fused the sides together. DAMHIK. For the intake seals...squat next to the bike. Look at the V of the cylinders. If you peer up into the inside of the frame area, into the center of the engine's V, you'll see where a tube (for lack of a better term) that's about 2" tall goes into each cylinder head. It's on the opposite side of the head from the exhaust manifold ports, if that helps any. 2 bolt flange holds it in place on each head. Spray there. | ||
| Mnrider |
My KLR650 used to do that. One cyl then no cyl hitting makes for a jerky ride. No 77 connector issue for 08. Sounds like plugs or plug wires. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Ratbuell, That looks like a very nice solution. Haven't had a problem with mine yet but hope to remember your method if and when the time comes. I checked mine out last year when there was a rash of belly aching over the 77 connector and found mine to still be in mint shape. Of course my Uly's belt was good until it wasn't, ya know how that tune goes. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
I also got my parts from Home Depot but in the plumbing department. There are sets called "submersible pump connectors" or something like that. The tough part was getting the wires out of the fried connector, I had to crush my connector. But as it was melted, no big loss. The instant I eliminated the connector the 'run on one cylinder in the rain' issue went away. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yeah, mine ran fine...the Kuryakyn voltmeter was the giveaway for me, on the way home from the Res Ride. Hour from home, 11pm...no more green light. Ruh-roh, raggy.... Yet another endorsement for the voltmeter (or ANY voltmeter - actually wish I'd seen the FB setup before I did the Kuryakyn...). | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
just received my kuryakyn voltmeter led yesterday. now i just need to figure out how to install it. I will take a look at my 77 connector, and intake tonight. btw, why use carbcleaner to spray? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Carb cleaner is usually omnipresent in a garage or auto parts place...but you can use brake cleaner too. Either is fairly residue-free and won't harm your seals if they are still good...but it's enough of a change in the air/fuel mix to make it burp if you get it through a leaky seal. For the voltmeter...just hook it to something that is powered while the key is on. I grabbed my shop manual and tapped into the gauge lighting wires because they were close to where I mounted the gauge (right handlebar, on the Garmin mount) and easy to get to, and are key-switched. You can use the aux outlet....but if system voltage gets below a certain point, the ECM turns that outlet OFF and it won't do you much good at that point. If you're doing the install before you get your manual, get a voltage tester with continuity check, hold one to ground, and poke the other lead (they're usually pointy) through the insulation on the gauge wires. If its the ground wire, the continuity alarm will sound. Usually black is ground - I want to say the gauge wires are black and yellow, but it's been a while. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I have one of those voltmeters too. It's easy to install. I hooked the red lead to the back of the accessory connector and jammed the black under a grounded screw. Works great but is pretty bright. |
