| Author | Message | ||
     Slowride |
Me thread Jack, why no Vern not me. On a more serious note and to the point, I wired opened my servo at the airbox the whole time I had my 06 Uly, I never threw a light. It was a little soft off the line, but pulled good through the mid to hi revs. 24k miles with the servo open and no light. Just my real world experience. | ||
| Etennuly |
Thanks Micah and Ken. That is what I was thinking, the ECM has no way of knowing it is unhooked, unless it changes the exhaust flow enough to change the readings from the o2 sensor. I guess I have been too tense about the subject lately!  | ||
| Etennuly |
Well I have exhaust flow now. I made a purty little hole in the right rear corner of the can, and welded on a purty little tail pipe. It sounds so much like the Buell race pipe that I had on my XB9. Kind of sweet sounding, but not too loud for cruising. Oh yeah, Fl/R/S is still there. I'm going at the timing and fuel maps tomorrow. Did I mention the exhaust sounds quite sweet now? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Pics? | ||
| Satori |
Sound Clip please! | ||
| Etennuly |
I just realized I did not get a pic after I angle sliced the end of the pipe. I can't right now, and I am not educated enough to post a video, and do not have time to learn the process right now. Here are the as working preliminary pics. I rounded out the hole a little better before welding the tip on.    I will put up another pic after I get a little paint on it. Too many projects today! | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Hey Vern.... I found that pic you called me about.....  | ||
| Etennuly |
Cool, I found it in the SM just before cutting time.  | ||
| 7873jake |
Where did that picture come from and is there a place for higher res pics of other parts of the bike (in color!!) like that? | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I founds it ons the internets | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Hey Vern.... did it work? | ||
| Etennuly |
I thought I posted a response to how it worked.? Hmmm..... Oh wait, there it is about three posts above the pictures.  As far as working goes, it does, but I still have my Fl/R/S problem, just moved it up about five mph. Now can hold steady throttle at about 74 mph without the light. It can push to about a steady 78 mph before R/S. I hooked up the valve. It does not have a flat spot that some said would be there, does not pop on deceleration, runs fine all around. Kind of spunky, but I just may be at it a little harder because it sounds so cool. It will run stock quiet when not on the throttle. Now working on getting 'puter to download the software to make the cable operate for ECM spy. I'll be back at it tonight. Too much to do today. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My friend did that to his XB12S. Welded a "lake plug" blocking plate to it with three thumbscrews. Sounds awesome with the 2.5" outlet open. Sounds STOCK with the plate screwed on. | ||
| Etennuly |
My secondary pipe is inch and a half. It sounds better if the valve is wired open. With it shut it is like I have a quiet side and a not quite so quiet side. But it does sound pretty sweet. Anybody know why I could not just put my timing light on number one cylinder to find TDC to check static timing? Seems like it should work to me. It just might be a little tight getting the induction clamp over the wire. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You can't check static timing while it's running. Static means stationary. | ||
| Etennuly |
What I was hoping for was that as it rolled up to the plug firing position that it would flash the timing light. No such luck. I put a longer plug wire from the coil down to the plug. Since the crank hole is open to the crank case oil it cannot be running to look either, at least without a clear plug of some sort. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I have a clear plug for ironheads. Would an EVO plug work in a buell XB? http://www.amazon.com/Harley-Davidson-Clear-Timing -Plug/dp/B000HZY2M0 Also, AMAZON.COM sells harley parts?!!??!! WTF!  | ||
| Sekalilgai |
Vern Did about 90 miles today in mid 70s without FL/R/S but looks like this week will be a good test...  | ||
| Etennuly |
A note to anyone with this FL/R/S problem.....Send me a PM and I will guide you through the twenty minute and twenty eight cent repair for this problem. It has a resolution that Ken and I worked out. I do not want to post said resolution here because of the hundreds of dollars and hundreds of hours of fixing and frustration that the dealers said was for a non existing problem. They said that "it doesn't do it, live with it. We cannot fix it". Well that is not a resolution. What we found is. Any BADWEBER, BUELL OWNER, NON DEALER, who has this problem and wants it fixed send me that PM, and as long as the problem is the same one we have described, I will help you fix it yourself and on your way for nearly free.  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
so ya want me to call ya don't ya? | ||
| Sekalilgai |
i dunno Vern, I think it is more like 22cents  ...how're you feeling? actually I'd estimate you'd recover the cost of the repair well within the 'next' tank of fuel (more like 1/3) | ||
| Etennuly |
I have answered at least eight e-mails from around the globe thus far. I will do as many as needed. I hope this fixes the problem for all as well as it did for mine and Ken's '06 Uly's. I hope they respond back here. I'm interested to see some results.  | ||
| Methed |
Vern, thanks for the response. I had already given this fix a go just before heading to HC last summer and I did see a notable difference, though my adjustment wasn't as much as you had mentioned. I had set it back to do some diagnosis of another problem, but I'm not sure if I put it back or not. Still having the other issue with occasional and random rear cylinder cut-out/chugging until shut down and restart, though that is completely unrelated and may be a head-temp or BAS failure. Worth noting, I was able to use 89 and occasionally 87 pump gas with much cooler results after doing this without once hitting skip spark, sans my hellish time in 95 degree chicago traffic last september. I still avoid pump gas, as quality around here is inconsistent at best and ethanol content can be up to 20% in MN without labeling. If you feel like this slick modification should cost more you can go the route I did; seeing as I'm really wealthy, I bought a three dollar tool that added about five minutes but makes this easier to adjust on the road. | ||
| Etennuly |
Dan, The BAS will not give you that kind of problem that I have seen. It makes the bike cut off completely, recycling the ignition switch and it will re-start. ETS failure can make for weird things to happen, because it will give errant or no reading to the ECM on temperature. First check for codes. See if the rear plug wire is clicked all of the way into the coil and onto the plug, and make sure the rear plug is not loose. I would be checking the wires under the airbox base cover. The o2 sensor wire has been rubbed through the ETS wire on more bikes than just mine. There are several places the injector wires, coil/ECM wires, TPS wires can be chaffed or melted through. Wiggle test, and look for the seat rubbing the ECM plugs. | ||
| Methed |
I swapped out my rear plug wire at the factory on 10/26/09 after the issue escalated during the ride from Hal's(thanks again to an elf named *** for that overstock wire!) but that didn't improve things at all. I have a second replacement wire to put on now and some dielectric grease to apply to both ends of each--not sure if that's advisable on the coil-end or not. TPS wires were okay last I checked, haven't tipped the engine though to give the ETS and other wires a go through. Yeah, seat rubbing on the ECM--mine has a hairline crack at the base of the connectors and has for some time. I'd think there would be far worse occurring if that were the issue. I will check those over, thanks Vern. I have seen a few of those items noted before, but all in one list is really helpful. Sorry for the ramblings and hijack... | ||
| Florida_lime |
I'm interested to see some results. Made the timing change for 1 1/2 lines (1 short & a half), and converted the rivet holes to 10-32 tapped holes to replace the cover. Rode to job #1 in the morning. Other than the 100 - 150 RPM higher idle, it felt good, but it's only 5 miles. In the late afternoon, while riding to job #2, with a heat index of 105 degrees for 25 miles.... NO difference. Skip spark, check engine light solid (O2 sensor code earlier), and occasional stumble -- all still there.  (Message edited by Florida_lime on June 05, 2010) | ||
| Etennuly |
Damn. I have been busy this past week and this weekend. No time to get back out there to ride. The 750 miles after adjusting mine proved it to be a cure, and the same for Ken's bike. Neither of our bikes had a stumble problem though. I am sending you a PM. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Thanks Vern -- pm replied to. | ||
| Sekalilgai |
FWIW, my next step if still plagued would have been lower fan kick-on temp and maybe the fans-on-oilcooler that either Treadmarks or EG did (don't remember) a while back. (i know, treating symptoms and all....) BTW Scott, how is your AFV? i have to admit tho, we rarely get +100 temps here...high 80s low 90s is typical for summer. | ||
| Buell_lee |
I did Vern's fix on Saturday (thanks again Vern)and rode to Canberra on Sunday (about 600KM's on the Expressway). I had no problems and I seemed to get a little better gas mileage but then it was a cool day, so I don't think it was a great test. |
