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Motorbike
| | Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 01:22 pm: | 
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Oops, I forgot about that one. Thanks to this forum, I read about the problem with stripped drain plugs before I did my first oil change.
I still use a torque wrench on the drain plug but only set it at 15 ft/lbs max. You guys saved me a LOT of grief. Thanks to all who posted on that subject.
Now, lets put our heads together and get this wheel bearing problem resolved in some way that I don't have to shell out close to $400 for the 2010 upgrade! |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 01:59 pm: |
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Nate, aluminum will transfer water on temperature and humidity changes. I have seen that air passage to the inside does not matter as much or more than the temperature and humidity changes that it goes through. I work with a lot of aluminum sheet, castings and extrusions in my business. Before we can weld it or seal any seams, when it is either cold or damp, we have to take a heat gun to it to drive the moisture out.
A stainless tube vs an aluminum one will not matter. They are going to change size with temperature increases that the hub goes through. At least with a similar metal it should expand and contract at the same rate making the inner race's position that is held by the tube more constant. I think incorrectly torquing it and incorrectly installing the bearings are as important cause of problems as are water intrusion, lack of grease, and over working the bearing for it's capacity.
My original bearings felt tight and notchy from the first time I checked them at 6,000 miles and every time after. I gave the a shot of fresh grease at every tire change, and sealed the outside of the bearing's seal with never-seize. They lasted 33,000 miles. The hub was carrying a lot of water. The water finally got through the inner seal and washed rust into the bearing on the left side, the side to which it leans 95% of it's existence.
I caught my failing bearing the first time it made a squalling noise. Getting a good look at it, the rust got into the bearing from the water intrusion from the inside, where it diluted the grease with not only water but also the rusty grit from the exposed edges of the metal bearings inside the hub.
Using the heat method of removing the bearings, I was able to discern that the right side bearing was fine. The first time in 33,000 miles it turned smoothly in my fingers was after I took it out. When I installed the new ones, per the book, they also felt a bit notchy, certainly not smooth, as when they were not in the wheel. |
Johnnylunchbox
| | Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 03:35 pm: |
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Etennuly, the stainless spacer would simply be more resistant to deforming from over-torquing the axle. I really didn't think it'd have any effect on the water intrusion issues. P.S. I don't think I got a quart of water in there from condensation. I rode in the rain alot and washed my bike maybe once since I've had it. It's absolutely filthy. |
Rwcfrank
| | Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 04:58 pm: |
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Since I have never had my rear wheel off this is only a possibility. Can one install a wider than stock bearing and simply shorten the spacer the appropriate amount. They may stick out a bit but should increase the load carrying capacity.. |
Wolfridgerider
| | Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 06:08 pm: |
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this will make some good campfire talk at the WV Buell Rally....
I gots a idea |
Johnnylunchbox
| | Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 07:29 pm: |
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Update: highland HD here in somerset PA had the bearings and spacer in stock. I am now traveling with spares. Woooooot! |
Hughlysses
| | Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 07:56 pm: |
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Rwcfrank- The drive side will accommodate a wider bearing with no problem. On the brake disk side, you'd have to machine some off of the boss on the swingarm to make room for the wider bearing, otherwise the wheel would be off-center.
I corresponded with a guy for a while (an inactive Badwebber) that had some bearing design background, and he was discussing what could be done with a company out in California. A thought was to bore the wheel all the way through and make sort of a bearing cartridge assembly that could be pressed into the wheel. It could accommodate wider or multiple side-by-side bearings to improve the load carrying capacity, and it could add provisions for external seals if desired.
I haven't heard from the guy in a long time, but I imagine by the time you'd done all that you'd have spent more than you can buy a 2010 rear wheel for. |
Rwcfrank
| | Posted on Friday, May 21, 2010 - 10:24 pm: |
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My goal would be to permanantly fix the problem, keeping the same rear wheel and spending as little as necessary. |
Garrcano
| | Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 12:24 pm: |
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Ok, I'm not in mechanics (more electrician), so maybe it's an stupid question: Why not use roller bearings (like NU1006) instead of ball bearing?
External dimensions are the same as the standard 6006, but comparing the "basic dynamic charge capability Cr" and the "basic static charge capability Cor", both are higher. From 13200 to 19700 on the first and from 8200 to 19300 on the second.
Comparing the maximal rotating speed, it increase also from 13000 rpm to 14 rpm.
Maybe it's more realizable against changing all the wheel kit |
Jphish
| | Posted on Saturday, May 22, 2010 - 01:03 pm: |
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I think boring out the wheel is also the 'fix' being used for the f800GS problem - but still using same bearing as far as I know. I think its a very small % of them - but enough to fill up a page or 2 on ADV rider. Cant account for the variation. The pre 2010 Uly rear wheel design maybe slightly flawed, but many have gone 50K mi or more, with no issues. some have re-occuring ones. I suspect it maybe the rear wheel bearing hole slightly off center or dimensionally distorted/out of spec? @ 28K - so far so good. |
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