Author |
Message |
Paralegalpete
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 11:48 am: |
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I'm approaching my 16km service interval and noticed that the Manual call for a fork oil replacement. The bike is less than one year old, is this correct? Do you all do this? |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 12:13 pm: |
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No, do what I do, put it off till the 64k service, buy all the tools and supplies, then the day before you intend on doing it, hit a stopped car. It will drain your forks and make your life easier. |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 12:53 pm: |
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I thought it was 10K miles for my '06 and 20K miles '07 and up, I could be wrong. I just changed mine, went waaaaay over probably close to 30K. Drained oil was clear and clean, but then I run ForkSkins which I believe help a lot. |
Paralegalpete
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 01:29 pm: |
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I think the dealer wants 3 hours labour for the fork oil change, and the service manual says every 10,000 miles. I better figure out how to do this myself. Your running forskins? (Message edited by paralegalpete on April 28, 2010) |
Motorbike
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 01:57 pm: |
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Are the H-D special tools listed in the shop manual available for purchase by any one or dealers only? Also, which of the tools are really necessary to just change the fork oil? I am nowhere close to 10,000 miles yet but I am just planning ahead, something I believe all Uly owners will need to do. Thanks. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, April 28, 2010 - 02:03 pm: |
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You can waste your money and buy the tools from HD, or you can improvise and use things like ratchet straps as a spring compressor. |
Brucen
| Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 12:06 pm: |
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I changed my fork oil at 10,000 miles. The oil coming out of the brake disk side was noticeably dirtier than the other side. I think the OEM pads are fairly dirty & dust manages to get past the seal. I would do at least the 1st oil change. I changed to Lyndall Gold pads shortly after the 1st change. They don't seem to be as dusty, and the oil was definitely cleaner when I changed it at 20,000. I use this tool to change the fork oil: http://www.traxxion.com/detail-25.aspx If you follow the instructions in the manual it is not that difficult. |
7873jake
| Posted on Thursday, April 29, 2010 - 12:37 pm: |
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Brucen, Did you use the model for the XB9R? |
Brucen
| Posted on Friday, April 30, 2010 - 12:18 pm: |
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I think it is a universal tool. I used it on my SS, but I think it will work with any Showa fork. You do need an extra pair of hands to help hold the fork & put the clip under the cap. I was intimidated before I did it, but it is not that difficult. I also used a mity-vac with a hose on the end and a ruler to set the oil level. |
7873jake
| Posted on Friday, April 30, 2010 - 12:23 pm: |
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Thanks for the info. I'll have to order one shortly as I approach that next task. |
Dr_greg
| Posted on Friday, April 30, 2010 - 03:24 pm: |
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Here are the tools I use to tear into the forks: 1. Spring compressor (two-handed version): 2. Clip to hold spring compressed while you remove top ass'y (disregard small holes): 3. Weighted cord to tie on damper rod to recover it: I change fork oil every 10K miles. This is the first bike I've ever owned which has suspension that actually WORKS for my weight, and I'd like to keep it that way. BTW using my tools this is a two-person operation; Mrs. Greg is my helper. She has the drill down pat. --Doc |
Garrcano
| Posted on Friday, April 30, 2010 - 03:41 pm: |
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Dr_Greg: Which diameter/size has the open part from tool number 2 (clip to hold spring) ? |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Friday, April 30, 2010 - 04:59 pm: |
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I just went ahead and bit the bullet, paid for themselves long ago:
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/16095.html
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/16096.html
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0124/ |
Tootal
| Posted on Friday, April 30, 2010 - 05:39 pm: |
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I used similar tools that the Doc used but was able to do it myself. You gotta be fast though!! Here's a link to where I rebuilt the trees and springs. You won't need all the information there but there are some pictures of some of the procedures. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442538.html?1236474150 |
Brucen
| Posted on Friday, April 30, 2010 - 06:02 pm: |
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This is what I use to set the oil level in the forks. I stick the hose into the fork until the ruler taped to the end shows the right level & suck away with the Mity-Vac.
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Itileman
| Posted on Friday, April 30, 2010 - 07:29 pm: |
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Given that the dealer wants about $1,000+ for the 10k service, owning some tools is worth it. Owning tools is good. Learning how to use them is another matter. |
Dr_greg
| Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2010 - 11:00 am: |
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Dr_Greg: Which diameter/size has the open part from tool number 2 (clip to hold spring) ? Slot width = 0.42 in --Doc P.S. I have the same seal driver as XBimmer---he taught me how to change fork seals (so to speak). |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2010 - 11:12 am: |
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Doc, you would have figured it out no problem. I'm sure you're the first person I'll be contacting when I rotate my engine! |