| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
It was a good weekend working on our land - pulling crap trees, clearing brush, pulling stumps and rocks so the mower can *keep* it clear, planting evergreens...we even found the back half of an old AMC Hornet (we'd found the front half about 2 years ago...about 1/8 mile away!).  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Ratbuell- Cool! Did you find an AMC Hornet or a Hudson Hornet? Well, technically the 2 were synonomous for 1955, 1956, and 1957. | ||
| Ratbuell |
AMC, sorry. Looks to have been a mud-brown sedan, probably mid-70's. Don't really need a Hudson...got the mom-in-law's toy to fill the "deco" category:  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Cool! Actually, some of those were labeled as "Hudsons" for a year or two after the Nash/Hudson merger formed AMC. | ||
| Ratbuell |
yeah, ours/hers is labeled "Nash", but has an American Motors data plate underhood (it's a '61 - note the seperate trunklid instead of only having the seatback passthrough). | ||
| Pso |
Find any skeletons in either half? Nice truck, what vintage? In 59 they were 2 1/2 tonners. | ||
| Etennuly |
Joe is that thing a dump bed? It 'otta be a real hoss for moving stuff. Need big chains!  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Our Deuce is a 68 or 69, 2.5 ton, no dump...but it does have the 10,000 lb PTO front winch  Next one will be a dump (they're CHEAP - we got ours, including the "premium" for the winch, for $2500 right from Uncle Sam). And ya - transfer case in low, front axle locked in, all six wheels pulling...it'll pull live trees out of the ground! I do need a rear wheel cylinder, though, if anyone has one laying around (yeah, right - but stranger things have happened)...and if anyone has ideas on how to get an 18,000 lb truck off the ground so I can pull a set of wheels to replace it, I'm all ears! It's the center set, driver side...I'm thinking get my backhoe, dig a hole, and drive the truck over it so the wheels I need to pull are over the hole... | ||
| Buewulf |
I'm thinking get my backhoe, dig a hole, and drive the truck over it so the wheels I need to pull are over the hole... Clever! But if you don't want to dig a hole, I've seen bottle jacks for sale up to 18 tons. I want a backhoe. And an 18000 lbs 6x6. Sorry for doubling up. For some reason this response didn't show up on the thread at first.  (Message edited by Buewulf on April 21, 2010) | ||
| Buewulf |
I'm thinking get my backhoe, dig a hole, and drive the truck over it so the wheels I need to pull are over the hole... Clever! But if you don't want to dig a hole, I've seen bottle jacks rate up to 18 tons. I want a backhoe. And an 18000 lb 6x6.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
The bottlejack is an idea....but the deuce is not tagged (just a field truck for now...but I wish it had tags when we had 40" of snow!!) and there is not a single hard surface on our property. Instead of the truck going up...I think I'd bury a bottle jack  | ||
| Buewulf |
You'd need plate steel under the jack wherever you decided to do the work. Otherwise you'd bury it in asphalt or driveway-quality concrete too! At least 2' x 2' x .5". | ||
| Ratbuell |
s'ok. Getting the wheel off the ground is only half the battle. Then, there's the 50 year old lugnuts (square?? where the F am I gonna get a SQUARE socket???). And what I'm sure are ridiculously heavy wheel/tire combos. Wheeeee. For now, I pulled the rear line completely and put a plug in the proportioning valve, so at least the front brakes work. It's just a field truck, after all. | ||
| Buewulf |
square?? where the F am I gonna get a SQUARE socket? They make square sockets. You can also use an adjustable pipe wrench. And what I'm sure are ridiculously heavy wheel/tire combos. They are heavy as hell. Man up! Or use the backhoe. It's just a field truck, after all. It is becoming clear that you do not really deserve this truck. Perhaps what you really need is for some kind soul  to swing by and rid you of this burden forever. ... and the backhoe. | ||
| Tiltcylinder |
Put a decent sized piece of steel plate under a ten ton bottle jack, lifting only the side of the axle you want to take the wheels off of, slide a piece of plywood under the wheels, grease under tire contact patch, lower tires until lightly touching wood, remove nuts and wiggle/slide off the lugs/axles and roll to the side. A smooth concrete floor works nicely without the need for plates or wood. Have done 500 pound tire/rim combos by myself (just be careful in the dirt - heavy stuff sinks into the ground quickly). Is the square 'nut' actually the 'bud' nut? The outer lug nut goes over the 'bud', holding the outer rim on, the 'bud' (square end) holds the inner rim on by threading over a threaded stud. Bud sockets available everywhere, usually double sided too. Old wheel cylinders are standard sizes, you can usually hone them and replace the rubbers for a buck or two, as long as the bore isn't rotten from water sitting in it (40 years). Worst case, there are shops that can sleeve the cylinder. | ||
| Etennuly |
 You said "square nuts"! I'm thinking I got to get me one of those little ole yard trucks. Hmmmm If that is like some of the medium duty trucks I work on, if the wheels haven't been off for a while, you might have to loosen the nuts about a quarter of an inch and drive it around until they come free from the axle hub. A night of soaking with WD40 prior to removing the nuts and wheels will help. Backhoe = handy device. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Well, once I source a wheel cylinder and a replacement brakeline (the line, I know, is standard stuff)...I'll start soaking the ...um..."wheel attaching hardware" (don't wanna get Vern all excited again by my word choice, lol) with BG InForce. Best penetrant I've ever seen, makes WD40 look like water (and seem about as effective). I haven't looked close enough at the wheels yet to see how they're attached. A buddy of mine sent me 96MB worth of Army manuals on CD that I can go through, to try and find an exploded diagram. All I know is: there's 2 wheels on each end of each rear axle, and each wheel is a split rim (should make tire changes EASY when the time comes), so there's four pieces of steel in there that I have to get off before I even get to the brake drum. Should be interesting, lol. Good idea on the greased-board, though, might have to give that a shot. Since the budget won't let me build the Garage-MaHal just yet (my 40x60 pole barn with heated slab), I don't have anything flat up there. Except the train tracks, and I'm sure CSX would be a little...confused if they came around the bend and saw a Deuce on the tracks!! Oh, and Vern? There's another one for sale here in Frederick right now. Same thing, no winch, "runs great" (I'm sure it does, guy's got two of 'em so he knows his way around 'em), new canvas cab top, $4500. If you've got a month, you could drive it home! | ||
| Etennuly |
Why would one for me be $4500 when yours was $2500 and you get a wench?  Seems like you are working with this guy in some devious back handed way!!!! | ||
| Tiltcylinder |
If you've got the multi-piece wheels, is the center section actually the hub and the rim just a rim? Held on with a sort of 'claw' that has a hole in the middle and is actually 'clamping' the rim onto the hub. That setup could actually have square nuts, and only need the right size wrench to undo (the nuts will be out towards the edge of the rim). The rims would then be three pieces : main section, outer rim edge and ring that holds it all together. If it's those, the rim tire combo is actually a manageable weight, the hub drum combo on the other hand can be a really heavy sumnufab***h. Be careful. Post a pic, I like trucks. | ||
| Etennuly |
His are bud type wheels with a split locking ring. The killer type if not done correctly!  Every safety video I have ever seen on truck tires, and OSHA training stuff always mentions the guys that have had their head, arms, or upper torso cut off or into shreds by split rings popping off. Use a cage or at least chain it in three or four places around the tire before inflating. They be the heavy bastiges! | ||
| Ratbuell |
'cause we bought ours from Uncle Sam; this guy also bought his at auction but has "done a ton of work" to it. His is pretty nice. Ours...well, let's just say I don't have to worry about the bed turning into a swimming pool. It has enough holes in it, it won't hold water. The center of the wheel looks to be a "normal" eight or ten lug hub - hub stack sticking through the center of the wheel, ten lugs around it holding the wheel to the hub I'm guessing. I haven't honestly spent enough time looking at them to see how the halves are held together... Looking in the manuals, though...looks like there's a standard hex nut that holds the outer wheels on. Remove six hex nuts, remove wheel. THEN, to remove the inner wheel, you remove the square-head nut-stud-thingy (guess the end of the hub is a threaded hole?), and remove the inner wheel. I haven't gotten to the brake-drum-section yet. This looks like more than enough fun already LOL. |
