| Author | Message | ||
     Workinman |
On the way to work today my bike completely shut down for no apparent reason. I looked down and the check engine light was on. Both speedometer and tachometer were dead. I dumped the clutch and it fired right back up. I was mildly weaving through traffic at the time and running about 75. I had no problems the rest of the way. Any ideas? | ||
| Towpro |
In order to help trouble shoot this I have a question. When it happened, you were moving and the bike shutdown. When this happened, was the clutch disengaged (lever pulled in)? or did it just loose power when in gear with clutch engaged? At that point you looked down and the tach was 0 (engine not running sounds OK) but you also saw the spedo reading 0 (and you were moving)? | ||
| Florida_lime |
My '07 has done the same several times -- usually at 75-80 mph, but wait until it does it at 10 mph leaned in for a street corner.  | ||
| Workinman |
It seems like I'd just downshifted, accelerated, move into the right lane, and when I began to up-shift I noticed that the guages were dead, no engine, and the V-Twin was lit up on the dash. All I did was engage the clutch and it fired right back up. | ||
| Etennuly |
Has the bank angle sensor been moved to the back of the under seat storage area? That would be with a anodized gold color bracket that is bolted to the seat latching mechanism. Many of us had that problem with our '06's, but none would re-fire without cycling the kill switch or ignition switch. The battery cable connectors can do that if they are loose. The seat can be crushing the plugs on the ECM causing that(spacer blocks can fix that). There is a red wire lead that splices into three separate red wires inside the wire bundle on the left of the steering head that can cause similar problems, usually intermittent gage failures. Loose or dirty ground connectors and the ignition switch plug can do it also. The reason I mentioned all of the above, sometimes the problems can come from multiple sources(like mine did more than once). Do a visual test and wiggle the connectors, loosen and sand the ground connectors. The factory battery bolts were just a smidge too long, they were fixed with a washer on the bolt and or adding accessory wire loops. If the battery post bolts are tight, grip the battery cables, if you can move them with serious effort, or make the bolts come loose by turning them, they are not tight enough. | ||
| Workinman |
I have an update: I took the bike out during my lunch break and it died and stranded me. I thought it might be the battery so I had a friend from work bring me a new battery. It didn't work (no power whatsoever) so I started tapping on the 4 relays inside the fuse box and it fired right back up. How do I tell which relay is bad? | ||
| Florida_lime |
Has the bank angle sensor been moved to the back of the under seat storage area? Many of us had that problem with our '06's, but none would re-fire without cycling the kill switch or ignition switch. My BAS was installed in the tail section area from day 1, and I've had it kick out about 2 dozen times. It DOES require the recycling of the kill switch. This was different, at least in my case. It dies but refires itself almost immediately if you don't grab for the clutch by reflex. Workinman -- next time it dies (don't think it won't), tap ONE relay at a time until it starts up again. As Etennuly suggested, adding another ECM/seat spacer might help. I don't think mine has done it since I added one, but it has been a couple months since I've ridden my Uly, so I forget.  (Waiting 5X re-backordered ETS to come off backorder in Feb) | ||
| Etennuly |
If you got it to go by tapping on them, pull them out to look for corrosion on the pins. You can look in the Service Manual for what they do, and swap them around. What ever quits per the book would have the dead relay. I have pulled and replaced everything in my fuse panel, one at a time, to check for intermittent problems. Fl., You still suffering with the Flashy light/run/skip? Mine quit doing that after the comfort kit, ETS, ECM, and switch back to Dino. Now it will go much further before it will put out a solid red ck eng light and it keeps running. I ordered a wiring harness, coil pack, plugs/wires, and an 02 sensor. We shall see how that goes(shit, I could have got a new bike for the labor and parts I have in it now....but hey, labor on your own stuff has no value, right?). | ||
| Florida_lime |
Fl., You still suffering with the Flashy light/run/skip? Not sure, the weather got cooler, then it started not idling well enough to find out -- waiting ETS for a couple months. | ||
| Tneall |
Have had this happen to my '08 Uly on and off since I got it. The problem seems to be in the main fuse block. When it starts happening I disconnect the ground from the battery, pull all the fuses and remove the fuse block from the frame. Push all of the wires back into their sockets and put it all back together. Works for about 6 months. |
