Author |
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Hmartin
| Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 01:09 pm: |
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Any advice on how to cure a 2,700 - 3,000 RPM stumble / stutter on an '06 Uly? It's not really a flat spot since, when I add throttle, it picks right up. It seems to be getting progressively worse over the last 4k miles. Two separate TPS resets have not seemed to help, and may have even made it worse. It also seems to be having a tougher time taking assertive throttle inputs up off of idle - a little disconcerting when pulling into traffic and you get a <cough> rather than a roar. Now I make sure I wind it up first. I rode at a steady 60 mph for over 5 minutes in an attempt to get the ECU to 'relearn', but that didn't seem to work. I'm running everything stock. I've got ECMSpy ready in case this is a fuel map issue, but I've not been able to gather any information about what to do to the maps. Or, do I have a bad sensor or something? Any advice / shared experiences are welcome. Thanks. (Message edited by hmartin on December 16, 2009) |
Ghostrider
| Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 01:19 pm: |
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Mine also sputters a bit on first gear starts. I thought it was just me! I thought that it was maybe my technique since I noticed that the friction point on the Uly clutch is at a different point in the travel of the lever than I'm used to with my Firebolt. However, I really think the problem is in the throttle since when I twist it, it seems to have a lag in response. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 01:34 pm: |
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What does ECMspy say your AFV is currently at? You might want to reset it to 100 and see how that goes. |
Johnboy777
| Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 02:01 pm: |
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If it were me, I'd reset the AFV to 110% ... if that cures that problem, as described, you can go back and add 10% to the 2,400 and 2,900 columns via ECMspy. Just a thought. |
Etennuly
| Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 04:32 pm: |
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I have actually made an '06 run worse by doing a TPS reset, it had about the same results. We brought it right back, hooked it up and rechecked the numbers, all were correct. Then we cleaned the throttle plate and bore with carb cleaner. Reset the TPS again and it has been better than ever, having over 20,000 miles on that bike. Also look for the little stand pipe on the right side of the throttle housing, it is a brass fitting that would normally have a plastic cap on it. I have found these to be gone a few times. My guess is a back fire will blow them off. |
Dfishman
| Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2009 - 05:26 pm: |
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On my '06 if my idle is low I get the 3000rpm stumble.If I keep my idle set at 1050rpm it seems to eliminate it. |
Hmartin
| Posted on Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 10:18 pm: |
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Just following up. AFV is 110 and change. I left that alone for the time being and elected to just reset the TPS, keeping a close eye on the temperature gauge to make sure it didn't fall below 130 deg C. I also sprayed plenty of carb cleaner down the intake in short bursts while it was running. We'll see after a thorough shakedown ride, but it seemed to run smoother btw. 2.5k to 3k RPM. I also set the idle against the high side of spec. Shakes a little more at idle, but perhaps implementing the "square" idle will fix that. Don't know if the coughing is fixed yet, but I'm optimistic. Thanks, everybody. |
12x9sl
| Posted on Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 11:13 pm: |
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I have a stumble, rough spot at 3,000 as well. I'm running a race ecm, k&n air filter and a drummer ss. It's a bad enough spot that on a 55 mph zone I run in 4th gear to change cruising rpm. I should probably try and figure it out, but I'm not very computer literate. |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 10:21 am: |
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My intention is not to sound like a total nob here but.... I would recommend cleaning the battery terminals and ground points for the battery and install star washers. I was having some strange running issues with mine until I cleaned everything up, now the problem is gone. Simple things first. |
Eulysses
| Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 10:43 pm: |
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Just back in from a cold ride on my 09...and it "surges" at the same rpm primarily in the lower gears...not noticeable at freeway speeds. |
Red_chili
| Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 01:15 pm: |
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Tweaking the map around 3K did it for me. A tad richer, and IIRC a tad less advance versus the race ECM map. Slight momentary ping off cruise led me down that road, its gone. Each one is slightly different, so ECMSpy and a laptop in your backpack is your friend. |
Buelldyno_guy
| Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 01:44 pm: |
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Two separate TPS resets have not seemed to help, and may have even made it worse. OK let's try this again as I understand that there several newer folks here. The TPS only needs to be set correctly "One Time." and that is so the ECM knows where Zero 0 is on that sensor. So once set correctly leave it alone unless you change the ECM or the TPS. Now for shops that are seeing your bike for the first time, it is possible that the TPS may not have been set correctly and if your hooked up it's easy to verify when you read the AFV. I bet that's your problem and below is a possible reason why. if the AFV had skewed to 110% or 10% rich and your bike is an 06 it might be time for intake seals. Once a year or every 5K miles is within reason. As the seals dry out they start to leak at idle and off idle. Idle is in closed loop and corrects it's self, but off idle at stop signs is in open and can not, so it sometimes pops if the bike has moved off cold enrichment. If it seems to get just a little worse over time it is because it can be getting lean at times. This is not an issue at higher power. So check for intake leaks It is easy to check and not too costly or difficult to repair. Terry |
Hmartin
| Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 07:20 pm: |
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Follow-up no. 2: Without me touching it, AFV is now reading 104 point something. Timely mention about the intake seals, though. I didn't suspect the seals initially since the idle's been fine, at least as good as it's always been. Then just today, the idle dropped below 1,000 RPM for a spell. When doing the leak test on the intake seals, the RPM's picked up a couple hundred when spraying the rear seal, so replacement is needed soon. It's still not that bad yet, but right now it's got a bit of Jekyl & Hyde personality. One minute it's fine, the next minute it stutters at 2.5k to 3k RPM. Next I'll be perusing the knowledge vault for some tips on replacing the seals. If you feel like sharing your experiences here, you know I'd appreciate that, too. |
Johnnylunchbox
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:07 am: |
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On the 06, I would check the ECM connections regularly. If you have a stock seat you'll see on the seat pan where the ECU connector is rubbing. Also, carefully look at each little wire coming out of the ECM, you'll often find some chafing which can cause "funny" running. Also, make sure your spark plug boots are seated properly. It's real easy to not seat them well enough when changing plugs. Also, I think there is an upgrade or service bulletin for the front plug wire. Would most likely give you problems in the rain, but worth checking anyway. |
Okc99
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 04:02 pm: |
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It's the Air Idle Control! AIC search for posts on this term. |
Buelldyno_guy
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 09:38 pm: |
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There is no IAC on an 06, they are 08 and 09 only. |
Froggy
| Posted on Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 12:26 am: |
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They didn't forget to put them on the 2010's either |
Hmartin
| Posted on Monday, March 01, 2010 - 09:39 am: |
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New seals went in over the weekend. No change in behavior during my 10 minute test ride, however I ran out of time and did not the AFV back to zero. Besides resetting the AFV and doing the 10 min. 3,500 rpm tuneup, is there anything else I could try? |
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