| Author | Message | ||
     Eulysses |
Added my Memphis lowers tonight...dove into the 2" Rox Risers as I was "in the mood" to modify. Noticed right off I could not tighten both 1/4" Buell hex bolts at the same time as the Rox is over one or the other. So, wanting the bars up and back toward me I tightened the lower (rear) then tapped the Rox's back and finished the tightening on the top (front) bolt. Not the best plan...scratched em some with the wrench as I had to get the screw close to the Rox to position it properly. Irritating. I unhooked the clutch cable from the handlebar bracket and set the front brake cable free from behind the light housing. Thought I was done until I saw how tight the throttle cable (one of em) gets. Tried some reroute ideas...best was to loosen the throttle and brake and move the throttle in a little (had some slack surprisingly) and rotate toward the source to gain a little slack. Ok...the question is: Is there a better reroute for the cable? It is still quite tight turned left...comes up tight under the key/switch rubber end. Seems like a wear factor increase for that cable. Do you disconnect at the throttle or ?. Reroute where? Thanks in advance. | ||
| Beemer |
Was wondering about that myself since I hope to get some of those Risers this winter,maybe someone has some pics and we could see how the cables are run. Good luck | ||
| Wbrisett |
I'm guessing that I simply don't have mine pulled back as much as you do or want. But I'm a taller individual and have a longer reach, so I didn't feel I had to move the bars that much. I just needed a little adjustment, so I didn't run into the cable problem. Wayne | ||
| Buellerxt |
Eulysses, I went out to check mine after reading your post. When I installed mine I released the upper brake line bracket, behind the light, by removing the fairing and getting to the screw from inside. That was the only cable that was too tight. My throttle cables seem fine, lock to lock. On installing the Rox, I tightened the back two handlebar clamp bolts first and then pushed the bars back 'just enough' to tighten the front two. That of course covered the back two bolts. To get the bars a bit closure to me I pulled the bar back a bit by loosening the 'Rox' bolts, three on each side. I wish there was more adjustment available by moving the Rox risers forward and backward through the bar clamp but because the bolts can't be accessed there isn't, for me anyway. I might ride over to my tech next week to see if he can do it, which is very possible. However, 'maybe' if I move things closer to me I'll run into cable problems. I'll find out. How did you get the upper brake bracket off without removing the fairing to get to the screw? Did you affix it to anything or just leave it be? How did the 'lowers' installation go? Any tips; things to look out for? Ths. (Message edited by buellerxt on December 06, 2009) | ||
| Eulysses |
Wayne and Mike...neither of you probably brought your bars back as far as I did...33" inseam and arms to match (almost 6'2") I pulled em back to be able to sit and cruise. Like Mikes', the front bolts are exposed and perhaps the bars pulled too far back. Drat. Mike, I did take the screen off to drop the bracket. I left the bracket on for future whatever. I felt the clutch cable a little too tight so dropped it off the crossover bar clamp. I think someone did reroute the accelerator cables if I am recalling correctly. Maybe they will jump in. We need a 2" non-Rox like the 1" American Sport Bike sells. | ||
| Buellerxt |
George, I am just like you, almost 6'2" and 33/34" inseam, probably 'technically' closer to 33"! lol It's kind of weird, but I installed the tall seat and Rox at the same time and the change due to the Rox didn't seem too great after my first ride. It has to be but . . . I'd still like my bars back toward me a bit but moving the Rox under the handlebar clamp isn't easy and the more I bring the bars back the more height I'll lose. Like I mentioned, I'm going to have my indy. tech look at it this next week. I'll let you know how it goes. Let me understand, did you take the brake line 'off' of the top bracket and then reinstall the bracket? Does the bracket clamp come right off the brake line? If so, did you secure the brake line to the fork or just let it be? Ths. and I hope you get yours like you want it. Any tips on installation of lowers? | ||
| Eulysses |
Mike...I did find this. Apparently those of us who want "up" and "back" (especially when moving to the tall seat) end up with a tight accelerator cable set. So I am going to reroute the cables per the posts below. I just screwed the clamp back on the fixture so I would not lose it. Left the brake cable to hang. One bright fellow mentioned that when the front tire is airborn it would be pulling that cable to its greatest length. I will look at mine in that light as well. Here is the link I found: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/322219.html#POST1023821 Off to the shop with me I now go... | ||
| Buellerxt |
Do you have your risers angled back toward you at the handlebar clamp, George, or almost straight up? Mine are pretty straight up and the pull back toward me is from the Rox clamps so my handlebar angle is changed a bit. I may only be using 60% of the flexibility of my risers!  | ||
| Eulysses |
Righto...the forward Buell clamp bolt is exposed and the risers pulled back...then the bars back a bit too. I think if you turned your wheel hard right and then felt the tightness of both accelerator cables...you might find a tight one. Great if not! | ||
| Buellerxt |
I may loosen it all up and tilt the risers back some. I hope I have enough play but I'll find out! | ||
| Eulysses |
Mike...I got the cables moved...not a big deal at all. In fact...they could even come up the left side and go over the top ahead of the gas filler and up to the throttle if needed. Now to take on the cooling package...argh! (that's pirate talk for argh!) | ||
| Buellerxt |
George, How did you get the upper brake bracket/clamp off the brake line to re-install it? I'd like to do that. I 'thought' I was finished with the Rox installation but I would like it back a bit so I'll get back at it tomorrow and see if I can tilt the risers back toward me a bit. I'm hoping that doesn't put strain on the throttle cables but from what you and others have experienced, I well might have to mess with the cables. First though, how did you get that bracket off? Ths. Mike | ||
| Eulysses |
Well...the bracket is a light aluminum C clamp thingie...just take the nut off and bend it off the brake cable. Once the cable is free I just squeezed it back into shape so I could put it on the bolt again. I swiveled it up out of the way so nothing interferes...like my accelerator cables which I routed up through that big hole the clutch cable comes out of (under the top triple tree thing. No big. I just did not want to lose it if I ever restored to stock. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Eulysses, Thank you. The help I have received from this site has been HUGE to me. HUGE! I won't even try to list the helpers on tools, service details, products, etc., but I remember and I certainly appreciate it. I never worked on my bikes before and now I'm apprenticing, under me (lol), to be a novice, shade tree tech! lol Very cool. Well, George, I 'think' I'm finished. Though I thought I was finished several days and 300 miles ago! Your posting got me to thinking about moving the bars back more and I'm glad it did. I haven't ridden yet but I think this is better. Though I had unscrewed the top brake line bracket I didn't remove the clamp and it restricted movement of the brake line. I got the clamp off the brake line, moved the risers back a bit, adjusted the bars at the Rox clamps where I 'think' I want them, started the bike to see if the throttle cables were binding and declared victory! Unless I screwed something up and just don't know it yet, I got lucky and have no cable problems. The clutch cable is 'free', the brake line is 'free', and the throttle cables don't bind, lock to lock! The throttle cable, at full right lock, is close to complaining but all seems fine. Thanks again. My Memphis 'lowers' have been shipped so that is my next project. Any tips or things to avoid on that installation? Thanks again to all. | ||
| Eulysses |
Good going! I can't rest without doing it over until right. I wanted my bars back but it made one of the cables (the push one toward rear on grip) just a little too tight when I felt it. Could not be good in the long run. The "Shades" just take some studying. On my Uly the bands went to the top of the tube. I found I could "hook" them together and pop them on hooked and doing a stretch on the bigger half. It regains its shape. You'll see. I did it so the hex head clamp screw was tightened from the back ('tween the frame and fork). I was trying to get the wings even with the bottom of my windshield...or close as I could to continue the wind blocking downward. I clamped a jig saw with metal (fine) blade in the vice with blade up and easy to cut your marks you made after mounting the shade to see how it hit. The peg on the clamp that the shade mounts to is about 90 degrees...facing out from the fork tube. Study the pics on the threads if you need to. Once the saber saw cuts were made and fit I sanded the cut. Looks like OEM when you are done. Can't wait to ride. In teens right now...brrrr. Oh yeah...don't forget to torque those hex heads to exactly 22 inch pounds. Ok...foolin' ya!  | ||
| Buellerxt |
You got me, Man! lol I stopped and was thinking 'why' on the exact torqing! lol I still haven't jumped into the torque wrench arena. Too many questions on brand, quality, etc. Do you use one? The 'Shades' installation sounds trickier than I was hoping for. I'll wait until I get them and think about it a while before I get worried. Thanks, Man. I hope I can sleep tonight without worrying about that 'push' cable! lol (Message edited by buellerxt on December 08, 2009) | ||
| Eulysses |
It'll be fine. Your brain works good. Take your time it'll all work out. Been studying the threads on the comfort kit. I envy those guys who just dive in and get er done...I have to plot and plan and revue. Don't want to mess up a new bike. MOST guys take their bikes to the shop (especially HD guys). The BWB people are DIY'ers from my perspective. I like learning my way through this thing because it will be a LTR for sure. Let me know how the shades go! PS Craftsman tools are real decent and guarenteed. Proto, Mac and SK are preferred by mechanics. I have both the small and large "click" torque wrenches but lived for years with a simple "indicator"-type that has the increments posted on the handle and a long "needle" that stays straight as the long bar "curves) with applied pressure. Worked fine for years. (Message edited by Eulysses on December 09, 2009) | ||
| Greaseslinger |
I had some pretty good luck with the Rox risers. A few reroutes of wires for the ignition/lock mechanism, removing the front brake clamp and shimmying the throttle cables over was all that I needed to do to keep everything working. The Rox risers allow me to sit in the seat where it is comfortable! | ||
| Greaseslinger |
Here's a pic: <img> |
