| Author | Message | ||
     Vospertw |
All, Signed on the dotted line today, pick up my 09 XT tomorrow. Looking at the online owner's manual, doesn't seem like anything difficult in the 1000 mile service. I've done all my own maintenance on DR/KLR/SV650 and R1100GS and plan on doing it all on the Uly unless I run into something requiring special tools/skills. Any opinions? Also, notice there are some fairly wide ranges in the various torque specs - is the preferred solution to go for the lower value, middle, high value? All of my other bikes have only listed one torque setting. Thanks in advance! | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
First of all, order the 09' ULY service manual. Gotta have that, good as gold IMHO. Change engine oil and primary oil and adjust primary chain as necessary. Good to go. This is probably just me, but I'd pull both wheels, one at a time and pop the wheel bearing seals and grease all the bearings. I did that to my son's ULY within a week of him getting that bike. Then anti-seize both axles and the outside of each bearing. Protects axles and bearings. Good to go. And another good thing about pulling your wheels is that you will then know how to do it and see how easy it is. Hopefully you have the service manual and follow the torque specs. Except when it comes to the oil plugs. Just snug the oil plugs so you don't strip them out since it is a steel plug screwed into soft aluminum. That is very important to remember. Don't want to see you here posting how you stripped them following torque specs in the service manual. Most torque specs in service manual are fine and so might be the oil plug torque specs in the 09' manual but they weren't in the original 06' manual. Be careful. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on December 01, 2009) | ||
| Vospertw |
EG, thanks. I don't have the manual yet but that's on my immediate shopping list. I had read about the drain plugs - any idea what a good torque setting would actually be? I use a torque wrench whenever possible; my general problem is overtightening things, not under. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I just tighten until it feels like it's run out of thread and just snug it a bit more. Never have any problems doing it that way. Don't over think it, just snug it maybe a 1/4 turn. Buells aren't smooth bikes but I personally have not lost any screws from vibration and I haven't used loctite on them either. I'm specifically referring to all those little 1/4-20 screws you'll be removing to get the chin fairing off when you do the oil filter change. I just snug them tight with a pair of vice grips on the screw driver handle. Tighten and snug a bit. Always there the next time. | ||
| Frostymug |
+ 1 on the service manual. I’d also invest in a couple of quality T-handle T27 drivers, one for the garage, and one to carry on the bike. I do 36 in lbs on the chin fairing with a drop of blue loctite, red thread locker is over kill for a part you’ll be removing that often. As for the drain plugs, I use Loctite 565 thread sealant, a new o-ring and tighten to 12 ft lbs for the oil, and 14 for the primary. | ||
| 88b |
Good idea on the 565 thread sealant especially with the steel plug and alloy casing. On Harleys I use PTFE tape. Only another 250 miles on the Uly until it's service, right now the weather isn't co operating | ||
| Arcticktm |
I have used settings from 15-18 ft-lbs myself for my drain plugs with no issues in 3 years/20k miles. I am using the recommended Loc-tite sealant as well, which will also act as a bit of a thread lubricant. I certainly would not go any higher. Check out the Uly New Owner section (link is at the top of the main Big, Bad Dirty page) if you have not already. It has a great collection of all the things we have learned since 2006, and usually what years they apply to. All maintenance is pretty simple,and should be no trouble with your experience. Only the TPS reset requires anything really special, and my understanding is the 2008+ do not have to do that anymore. Following the service manual is important in wheel R&R (especially rear axle tightening), so get that before doing any work. Only the drain plugs torque seems to be screwed up in my 2006 Service Manual. I always shoot for the middle of the spec, as that is how they are intended to be used (again, drain plugs excepted). Enjoy! | ||
| Pso |
yOU DO NOT NED TO REMOVE THE CHIN FAIRING TO CHANGE THE OIL FILTER. D***, what nit wit decided to put the cap lock right above the cap key. Anyway just take I think 2 or maybe 3 of the screws out of the right side and the chin spoiler pulls back far enough to repalce oil filter, sure makes the job, much much easier. Thus oil change change is a very short quick and clean process. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I like taking the chin fairing all the way off, so that when I drain oil all over the muffler from the drain plug and the oil filter, I can easily wipe it all over the muffler. Then oil changes also turn into corrosion prevention for the muffler. You know, that whole two stones and a bird thing. Wait a minute..  |
