| Author | Message | ||
     Towpro |
I was an auto mechanic for 14 years (before moving into another field). I have lots of Snap-On tools in my tool box (those that I have not lost yet), but when I buy additional wrenches I buy the Pittsburgh brand that Harbor Freight sells over sears. I have never had a problem with Pittsburgh wrenches. They are highly polished, they have much more of a "tool steel" ring when dropped then sears. They look like they have the design snap-on called "flank drive" where the wrench puts the pressure on the sides of the bolt head and not on the corners. and you can't beat the price. | ||
| Ourdee |
2. I plan to follow the manual and just hand tighten the filter, as much as I can by hand. I also plan to snug up the drain plugs with a wrench, not real tight but snug, but without a torque wrench. Measure the oil to fill the filter with into a small cup and slowly fill the filter with the proper amount. I always use my finger to make sure the threads in the filter have oil on them and to put oil on the o-ring on the filter. Then screw the filter on till it just touches. At that point I tighten it 3/4 of a turn. Make sure the o-ring on the plug is still good, new ones are very cheap, even at the dealership. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
1. The manual says apply Loctite 565 thread sealant on the engine and transmission drain plugs. Is that necessary? Do you? If so I need to see what it is and get some.My tech never did on my other bikes but . . . ---Use blue (medium strength) locktight. Not too much either. I do not use it on drain plugs but it can't hurt. Do not use too much- about one drop will do fine. 2. I plan to follow the manual and just hand tighten the filter, as much as I can by hand. I also plan to snug up the drain plugs with a wrench, not real tight but snug, but without a torque wrench. Any problem? Again, my tech never used one on plugs or anything besides wheels but . . . ---Filter should be at least half full of oil and the O ring seal should be oiled. Tighten to about 1/4 turn past where it seats to the engine. Nice and snug. Drain plugs have an O ring seal that will need to be replaced from time to time. Have a couple extras on hand. Snug tight with a wrench is fine. 3. Do you put loctite on the chin fairing screws or just snug them up? ---Locktite them with a single drop of blue locktite. Be sure that the shoulder of the screw goes into the plastic correctly and all screws are started down to this point before tightening any of them. Do not loose any of the plastic washers. 4. The manual says to disconnect the neg. battery cable before trans. drain/fill. Is this necessary? Again, my tech never did but . . . ---I don't do that but there are some good reasons why you should. One, for example, is that you need to be checking and cleaning the batt connections often. 5. The manual says stand the bike up to drain and refill transmission fluid. Is this necessary? I don't have a lift but could put a 2x4 under the kickstand if needed. Does it take a full quart? ---You will find that it's much easier to get the new fluid in there if it's held vertical. Fluid level is level with the bottom of the clutch or one quart. I just have my wife hold the bike for a minute and that works for me. It can be drained on the kickstand at the same time as the engine oil. Inspect the drain plugs for steel particles and O ring condition. Clean them and the cases where they live at this time. I don't plan to get into clutch adjustment this time. It seems fine to me. ---Don't fix it if it aint broke. Input/suggestions will be appreciated. Ths. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thanks guys. As always, great input and much appreciated. Court, I've read over the clutch adjustment, and though it seems straight forward and 'might' seem easy once I do one, a 'little photo thingy' would be GREAT! lol Firstbatch, I'll get some of that 565 sealant. Will that be good enough for the two front screws on the chin or should I get 'blue' as well? I'll look into a torque wrench as well. The techs I've talked to don't seem to use torque wrenches except when doing wheels. They don't seem to trust them for getting things tight. Any thoughts on that? Thanks for the tool advice, Towpro. The Torx socket set I got was is a Pittsburgh because Sears didn't have what I needed. Good to hear they are good tools. Thank you Ourdee and yes, I plan to put new o-rings on both plugs. Well, I need to get the sealant before I start but I'm 'close'! Ths. Any advice on the 'easiest', but good method to lube my clutch and throttle cables? I couldn't find anything on that in the manual. Do I need a tool? Recommended lube? Any good tips? Is it even needed and if so, how often? Ths. Mike | ||
| Mnrider |
After getting the suspension set if I'm still young enough to ride.  You've done everything right so far by asking for help and getting good tools. Be carefull when setting the compression and rebound settings,turn the screw in till it stops then count the correct amount out.Easy to do but don't overtighten the screws. I use Rem oil or Tri-flow spray and just spray down the cable where it goes into the housing and the cable ball at the lever. (Message edited by mnrider on November 17, 2009) | ||
| Buellerxt |
Well guys, I just got started and I need help! Errr! Hey, laugh your butts off and try to get some enjoyment out of this! lol, though I'm really not laughing. I got my 3/8" ratchet and 8-1/2" extension out to adjust the pre-load on the front forks and started looking for the size of the adjuster nut. Couldn't find it in the shop manual, owners manual, or parts book. Where do they hide it? What's the secret? I don't want to 'trial and error' anything when I know the size has to be somewhere. I don't know if it's metric or English and I don't want to have a problem like I read several had by using a T-25 instead of a T-27 on the chin fairing. I also looked for the bolt sizes to remove the handle bar clamp but couldn't find them! This task, (1000 mile service, setting suspension, and installing ROX Risers) that some of you could do in 2-3 hrs., tops, may take me the better part of the winter BUT I'm documenting this so hopefully the next time will go better. Any help? Ths. PS: It's an ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL day here to ride. I have to get this stuff down and done quicker, but right now I'm working on 'p-a-t-i-e-n-c-e. (Message edited by buellerxt on November 17, 2009) (Message edited by buellerxt on November 17, 2009) | ||
| Mnrider |
I just went out and checked my bike,a 7/8 socket will work on the fork adjuster but a 22mm is probably the right size. Maybe someone who's done the risers will give you some tips. | ||
| Towpro |
Motorcycle cable lubing tool. Below is a picture of what you really need! I bought it years ago, at that time it was a Yahama part, but everybody makes them now. you clamp it on the cable, stick the little hose from the can into this tool and it forces lube through the complete cable. I could expect to find it for sale at (most) any motorcycle shop.  | ||
| Red_chili |
You asked about Loctite 565 and Loctite Blue. They are not the same. The 565 is essentially a Teflon sealant. Somewhat of a lubricant. You don't want to assist your chin fairing bolts in backing out. Blue is threadlocker. Somewhat of a non-lubricant. That's what you want for the chin fairing. Different uses. Interesting about the Pittsburg wrenches. Huh. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Okay guys, here's an update, and though these are baby steps, I FEEL GOOD! lol I measured the tool fitting from under the seat and it was 3/4". I then used a 3/4" socket with my 8-1/2" extension and the adjustment went GREAT! I then proceeded to do the other five adjustments, s-l-o-w-l-y and carefully. It all went very well. Ah, having the right tools is nice. I have to head to the airport to pick up a daughter so the rest will be done tomorrow. I checked out the brake line because I read where others had undone the line connection behind the headlight assembly and used zip ties on the fork tubes to get more 'line' play for the 2" riser. It looks like to do that I have to take off the fairing! Oh well, a little more experience. I'll read about that tonight. I'll pick up blue loctite and the 565 sealant while I'm out. Do you folks use those products on the drain plugs(565 sealant), and chin fasteners(blue loctite) or just snug everything up? Ths. again. You guys got me here! Mike (Message edited by buellerxt on November 17, 2009) (Message edited by buellerxt on November 17, 2009) | ||
| Court |
If you have questions . . . . ASK. You're to be commended for being smart enough to take your time. If you get in a bind . . . we've got plenty of folks in your area who can lend a hand. ASK. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have not used any thread locker on the plugs. The stuff is primarily there to prevent the plugs from backing out due to vibration. The "O" rings on the plugs actually do the same. I do not want to risk the abuse on the threads in the aluminum housings for the little added benefit. The chin faring bolts are coated with thread locker from the factory. It makes them difficult to remove(of course), but to properly use thread locker, you should clean the bolt's threads as well as those threads in the nuts that are welded to the muffler. I do not use the thread locker here either. I have just been careful to not cross thread them, using the 27T bit, a 1/4" ratchet with a 3" extension, held at a perpendicular angle while pushing in to keep the wrench properly engaged as I tighten them. I use the size of the ratchet to control tightening them to a torque specification some where near where I cannot tighten them any more. I have not lost one thus far, in the 44,000 miles on the Uly and 20,000 on my other Buells. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Ths. Court, and will do on the questions! lol Etennuly, I appreciate that input and will do the same, at least initially. I will use new o-rings for the two plugs, watch my alignment on the chin fairing screws, and snug them up well. I don't want to set a timetable but if I get the fluids changed tomorrow, and the ROX Risers installed, I'll be a happy camper. I'll be taking the fairing off tomorrow to release the brake line behind the headlight assembly, as a result of the 2" risers. If anyone has warnings, suggestions, etc., on doing that and installing the risers, please SHOUT! Ths. Mike | ||
| Firstbatch |
Don't confuse thread sealant with thread locker......completely different. The 565 is a thread sealant and is very applicable to the the drain bolts. The Blue Locktite thread locker is a mild thread locker and is good insurance when you ride a paint shaker like the Uly. No reason not to use it and it is much better then the factory "white" thread locker that is prevalent on the Uly and hard to clean up. | ||
| Buellerxt |
I'M PUMPED guys! PUMPED! I completed all three of the tasks I was going to pay my indy $250. to do! When he got too comfortable with my dependence, and delayed doing my work, I finally decided to do some of my own work. I had very few tools but the help I got on this thread, along with my manuals, the new tools purchased since starting this thread, and a GREAT wife who helped(!), I got it all done and feel great. I have learned a LOT and it has just started. I can now service my Uly, my 1996 Sportster 1200C, and my son-in-law's 96' Softail Custom! I won't ever do an overhaul but I am now anxious to learn and do more, s-l-o-w-l-y and d-e-l-i-b-e-r-a-t-e-l-y, but I will do it. I'm sure the speed of my work will pick up with experience but I'm not in a hurry. I set the six suspension settings on my Uly, completed the full 1000 mile service and installed ROX Risers. Nothing for some of you but big steps for me. I feel good! Thanks to all that helped me. Mike (Message edited by buellerxt on November 19, 2009) | ||
| Panhead_dan |
CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!! Now you will be hooked for life.... One thing that has always amazed me is that some people do not do their own work. It seems to me that the work and the rewards for doing it make me much more intimately involved with my motorcycle. It's like I'm getting a lot more out of my bike because of the work. There is a confidence factor also. Very rewarding! How can some folks just own one? They are missing out on so much. | ||
| Court |
>>>and a GREAT wife who helped Hahahaha . . and stay on her good side. I'd never adjusted a clutch in 22 years of Buell riding. Last year I was over at Clem's BBQ in PA and my clutch really needed adjusting. I knew I'd packed the tools. I called my wife . . had her get the service manual and read me through it . . worked perfect. I'll do it from time to time just to get more familiar. I plan to do a lot of work this winter and am really enjoying it. Good on you! ! | ||
| Dano_12s |
Court,so thats why you had to get her a "Clem's To Go Bag"!...Good to see you there. | ||
| Court |
Ahhhhh . . . ya gotta know my wife. One thing Erik and I share is that we both married FAR above our stations! She's a doll and used to be an avid rider. She had one of the wildest stories I've ever heard in motorcycling . . happened about the time we met . . she was in Baja riding dirt bikes . . she wore kids' moto-x pants and was blasting along when the oil plug, apparently cross threaded, blew out and filled her boot . . . which was up to her knee and firmly buckled . . . full of boiling oil which burned down the the bone before they were able to get the boot off . . she of course . . self medicated with Cerveza that night and rode on for the next 3 days. She's a tiger . . .  (Message edited by court on November 19, 2009) | ||
| Buellerxt |
Ah, I know all about marrying above one's station, Court! Lucky us! I assume you are referring to Erik Buell when you say Erik, given your past affiliation with Buell. If so, please tell him that there is a member here who worked with his uncle Ken and really admires the man. Erik comes from strong stock. Ken is a West Pointer who excelled in the Army, and did very well in the auto industry after retiring from the Army. He retired from the auto industry and chose to head back overseas and that is when I met him. He was 'under' hired because of the industry switch and worked for me. I often felt I should be working for him. Multi talented, always willing regardless of the task, a great employee. Ken is having a tough medical time now but he is as proud and feisty as ever. Good stock, those Buells. I remember when I told Ken years ago that I rode Harley's and he told me about Erik. He told me that he heard that the bikes Erik made, Buells, were the best motorcycles in the world! I was sure proud to tell Ken's wife just a few weeks ago that I got a Buell. Ken isn't able to talk on the phone and is in a home due to difficulties but she told me that he smiled when told and had good recollections of our time together. Very cool. Please tell Erik how a member feels about his uncle Ken. Ths. (Message edited by buellerxt on November 19, 2009) (Message edited by buellerxt on November 19, 2009) | ||
| Court |
>>>>Good stock, those Buells. I am not surprised to hear that they are ALL hard headed! This is so cool. Would you be so kind as to send me your address. I'd like to send a copy of "25 YEARS OF BUELL" and ask you to deliver it to Ken on behalf of Dave and I. This . . I must tell you . . is PRECISELY the reason I have always been fascinated with the world of Buell. Court | ||
| Buellerxt |
Message sent Court. | ||
| Blasterd |
"If you get in a bind . . . we've got plenty of folks in your area who can lend a hand." Court speaks the truth! I have met some great people on here over the past 9 years and I cannot thank them enough for helping me out when I have had questions. This is a great place.. Court, I have a question for you. Can I email you? Ken | ||
| Court |
SURE | ||
| Svh |
Buellerxt- Congrats! It sure is a liberating feeling isn't it? Just recently a friend of mine and I changed brake fluid and pads on his old Yamaha RD400 because the place he went to told him it would be 3 weeks even though he had the pads already for it and they seemingly had no work in the shop. So we spent an afternoon in my garage working him through it. Same with his car brakes. Much like yourself he was elated at the cost savings and could not believe they charge so much for doing so little. He is happily now able to wrench on his bike and bought some tools to do just that. Enjoy it and don't be too scared there isn't much on these bikes you can really screw up. Except for the spark plugs. Make sure you get them in straight and don't over tighten. If you do a Dr from NM can help you out. Enjoy your independence from the man! Sam | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thanks Svh, Much appreciated. The cost savings is nice, no doubt, but equally if not more important, is the great feeling that I can do it and can do it when I want to! Ah that feels good. I don't have to wait until a week from Thursday any more! I have thought about brake pad changes and general brake maintenance, brake fluid change outs, fork oil change outs, as well as changing spark plugs, and wondering whether I'll wade into those undertakings when the time comes. I need to read more about the plugs, usually a simple exercise but I've heard they are tough on the Uly. I'd like to be able to accomplish all of those tasks. That would leave me with tire changes as far as general maintenance and I won't be able to do that. My main goal in tire changes will be to find a diligent tech who will watch spacers, torque's, etc., like a hawk in an effort to prevent bearing damage. As needs arise I'll be reading up on things and back on here getting great input. This is the best motorcycle forum I have experienced. Hey, hopefully I'll be able to help others in time! Ths. again. Mike | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Buellerxt, Just because you don't want to change the tire doesn't mean that you can't take off the wheel and deliver it to whoever will change and balance it. Then you won't have to worry about torque specs and bearing condition because you will deal with that yourself. Removing and reinstalling ULY wheels is a piece of cake especially compared to most motorcycles I've owned. Once you've done it yourself you'll wonder why you were doing all the fretting about it. I ain't rocket science. And best of all, when those wheels are off, that is the easiest time to clean them completely. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on November 20, 2009) | ||
| Panhead_dan |
"That would leave me with tire changes as far as general maintenance and I won't be able to do that." Such a defeatist attitude! You can do that. Repeat it over and over. I've changed hundreds of tires at home with no special equipment and so can you. Here is a key to success in any endeavor; Read Study Visualize Perform (RSVP) Do not be intimidated, be educated. All ya gotta do is outsmart the machine. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Hey, I appreciate the good info and thoughts guys. You gave me something to think about, Electraglider. Thanks. I have not considered wheels but removing them gives me something to consider. I don't like the thought of a lift after reading countless stories of fallen bikes in various forums but we'll see. Good thoughts and very much appreciated. Ths. Mike | ||
| Court |
I'm going to learn to do my wheels this winter after paying $325 to get a tire changed. I know it's not tough and the only thing standing between me and the task is lack of experience. I've got the service manual and there's plenty of help here. I've even looked at chipping in with Henrik and buying a tire machine but I'm not sure it's necessary. I really like that RSVP process. . . I'm thinking about, as I take on various tasks,, trying to document them from a novice view point. One trick that has always served me well is, rather than using a stand, I "hang" the bike from the rafters. It works really well. |
