| Author | Message | ||
     Buellerxt |
I haven't done mechanical work, got spoiled by having a good, very accessible indy. for over ten years(used dealers before that), and am very LEERY about screwing things up. Now my great indy. has grown, is hard to get into, has become more independent with success, charges more hours, etc. First, I'll need tools. I can't even set my front suspension because I don't have a long necked ratchet that will allow me to count the number of complete turns. Is that how you guys do it? I want to get the 1000 mile service done and RIDE but my indy. can't get me in for another week or more and I've already been waiting a week. I need the 1000 mile service, to set the front and rear suspension, and to install the 2" Rox Risers! I have the shop manual, oil filter, motor oil, trans. oil, and inspection gasket but quite honesty, given my lack of mechanical experience, yeah even for an older guy, and the horror cases I've read of guys trying to do their own work, I'm afraid of screwing things up. Have any of you been here? Should I ride another bike and wait on the indy, or should I get proper tools and wade in? Any input will be appreciated. Ths. Mike PS: A saying on one of Dr. Greg's ride reports, something like; 'It is easier to teach math to a mechanically inclined person than to teach mechanical techniques to a mathematician' really hit home with me. I know we can all learn but I never did and I hate the thought of screwing up my bikes. | ||
| Froggy |
All the tools needed to set the suspension are in the under seat toolkit.
Got the right size wrench and a drain pan? If so, your good to go. You listed everything you need. Read my oil change guide.  http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?142838/467974 | ||
| Edgydrifter |
The service tasks you've described can all be done with common hand tools and information found in your manual and in the tech section of BadWeb. Every task can be broken down into simpler sub-tasks. Since you're nervous about it, my suggestion is take it slow--plan what you're going to do (maybe even write it down step-by-step), rehearse it next to your bike until you're familiar with the location of all the things you're going to be fiddling with, and then keep a journal handy while you're actually doing the service so you can jot down tips and observations that will help you put everything back together and improve your efficiency the next time you're wrenching on the bike. Measure twice, cut once, as the saying goes. Expect to spend three times as long doing a job the first time as you "ought" to. Speed comes with familiarity and confidence. | ||
| Tneall |
Buy the tools and do the service yourself. Use the manual. Read the appropriate sections until you are familiar with the steps involved and refer back to the manual as you proceed (never trust anything to memory). And leave the beer in the fridge until you are finished with the test ride and all of the tools are put away. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Froggy and Edgydrifter, Thank you both. Great advice, Edgydrifter. That is how I approach most things and I'll make sure I plan, document, and go slowly initially. Ths. for taking the time to respond. Froggy, I'll read your oil change guide in detail and ask any questions I have. I'm already concerned about the torx nuts given reports of stripping, some saying use loctite and some saying don't, etc. Do you adjust the primary belt and clutch every time? Do you lube cables every time? Suggestions on products and tools? How do the tools under the seat work for the front suspension adjustments? The book says 9 complete turns but I can only move the nut, in those tight spaces with the wrench provided, a quarter of a turn at most. If I try to add up quarter and fifth turns I'm sure to miss the '9' turns by 1-2. What am I missing? Wouldn't long necked ratchets be better? Any advise on tools guys? There is a Harbor Freight and a Sears Hardware close by. Is the Rox Riser installation a big task for a beginner, or not? Ths. guys. (Message edited by buellerxt on November 16, 2009) (Message edited by buellerxt on November 16, 2009) | ||
| Etennuly |
Perhaps you could find a BadWeB member in your area. Most I have come across are very helpful. Learn the search function here, and start into it. When you have a problem call back here on this thread. You will find the help you need. Important! Do not use the torque specification for the oil drain plug. They made a long running error in the service manuals. It has an "o" ring for a gasket, just turn the plug in until the "o" ring touches, then tighten it about 3/4 of a turn, or until it feels snug. After doing a service, ride it around locally to test what you have done, then inspect for leaks or looseness. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Great advice and help guys! Much appreciated. Froggy, that is a GREAT pictorially presented 'How To' guide on oil changes. Well done and very appreciated by a novice like me. Do you have one for the primary/transmission oil, clutch adjustment, and cable lubing?  | ||
| Mnrider |
I would go to sears and buy one of those mechanics tool kits,better tools and affordable. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Mnrider, I had just thought of Sears Hardware, there is one close by, and was getting ready to add that to my post when I read your advice. Thank you. I'm not a knowledgeable tool guy but I like Craftsman tools. Is the 'mechanics tool kit' a separate set or do I need to build it? Any specific recommendation? It's weird, but I'm already feeling better about all this. These three tasks are good ones to get me started. | ||
| Froggy |
No, I keep botching up the job. I do got some pictures if you want to at least take a look. Although without text, they really aren't much help. http://www.froggypwns.com/images/Primary%20Service /index.html | ||
| Tneall |
If you can get your hands on the Buell XB tool kit, it's worth the money. Supplement it with a Craftsman 3/8 inch ratchet and socket set and you'll be able to do everything short of a major engine rebuild. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Ths. Froggy. The pictures are helpful. Text would definitely help but I appreciate the pictures. Back to the suspension: Do you use the tools in the tool kit or long necked ratchets? I can't see how to properly measure full turns when only moving the nut 20%, or so, each time and I have to make '9' full turns. Cables: How often do you lube them? Is this something I need to do? Ths. | ||
| Mnrider |
Just buy the biggest set you can. Most sets have wrenches,sockets,screwdrivers and the Torx and hex keys you need. Just drain and refill the primary with formula+,no need to check or adjust the primary at 1k. You just need a good 27 Torx socket to remove the chin fairing to change the oil filter. I lube my cable at the lever every couple weeks. Just measure the amount of adjuster sticking out on top of the forks. (Message edited by mnrider on November 16, 2009) | ||
| Buellerxt |
Quote:Tneall:If you can get your hands on the Buell XB tool kit, it's worth the money. Supplement it with a Craftsman 3/8 inch ratchet and socket set and you'll be able to do everything short of a major engine rebuild.Unquote. Wow! Is that right, Tneall? Is that the best route to take on tools? Are you talking about the Buell set, Buell® Tool Kit 94685-03Y for $99.95? That set and a 3/8" ratchet set is all I'd need? Ths. | ||
| Mnrider |
I agree with Tneal the buell kit is pretty good,I bought it because I wanted the rollup and the spark plug socket to carry on the bike. You still might want to buy a socket style torx 27 for the chin fairing and primary doors. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Mnrider, Are you saying that you agree that the Buell kit, 94685-03Y, and a good 3/8" ratchet set will handle everything short of an engine overhaul? I'm not trying to corner anyone and I realize there are always exceptions but I want to buy what I need and not over buy. I went to the Craftsman site and they have a 154 piece mechanics set on sale for $100. I appreciate all of the input and am just trying to see what tools I need to buy. Do you use the under seat kit to adjust front suspension? Ths. | ||
| Mnrider |
Check the What Wrenches thead,I posted a pic of the buell tool kit. You'll still need a socket to adjust the front susp. You can never have to many tools.  | ||
| Sboggan |
Coupla questions: * Will performing the 1k (and 10k) service yourself invalidate the factory warranty? The language in the owner's manual seems to imply this and I recall reading posts that imply this to be the case (which seems somewhat indefensible by H-D, given the scope of the 1k) * Can anyone recommend a good low-cost torque wrench and what torque range (specific in/lbs or ft/lbs) would be most useful for the Uly? The Craftsman models seem to offer good value, but since I don't have the factory manual yet I'm not sure which one to get | ||
| Edgydrifter |
Well, doing your own service may or may not affect warranty coverage (it really depends to a great degree on how much the dealership wants to press you on it), but the warranty runs out eventually so you may as well get comfortable with doing your own wrenching now. Believe me, for most routine maintenance tasks the careful owner-mechanic can do as good a job as the dealership. You just have to take your time. For a cheap and simple torque wrench, I recommend the old-fashioned beam type. You can get these at just about any hardware or auto supply store. They aren't as accurate as well-maintained click wrenches and sometimes you have to contort yourself a little to read the scale (I don't have a table lift so I spend a fair amount of time laid down next to my bikes in the driveway), but then again beam wrenches don't ever need to be recalibrated, and they're much, much less expensive. | ||
| Ksc12c |
My advice is take it slow and easy. Do something simple first,like the Oil change.Take the time to read the service manual before you start wrenching. If you get frustrated, walk away and try it again later. As for tools, I try to catch them on sale. I bought my torque wrench and bike jack at Sears at a pretty good price. You'll also have the satisfaction of doing the work yourself. Kevin | ||
| Sboggan |
Totally agree on the need to get comfortable with wrenching on your bike, but I want to be sure I retain whatever coverage the MoFoMoCo provides until such time as the warranty expires. I've been using a beam wrench on bikes for 15 years of casual maintenance, and I'm overdue for an upgrade. Aside from the contortion and accuracy issues, the length of the beam prevents its use altogether for tight jobs. I assume I gotta be able to find something decent for $100 or so (maybe find a Snap-On at a pawn shop?). Any recommendations as to make and torque range would be appreciated. | ||
| Court |
Where in TX? We've got LOTS of folks there who I'm sure could and would be happy to spend a day helping you get it done and done right. Make certain you have the service manual. If you don't have one, order one. If you order one and get in a bind let me know . . I have them all and can loan you one if it's not available. Key is to go slow . . . take your time the first time through and you'll do great. There will also be GREAT peace of mind when you are riding to KNOW that things were properly tightened and done right. You guys are all to young to remember Court's old "Milk Crate" talks from the mid 90's . . . . shame. | ||
| Itileman |
I took the tool kit specs from the Buell catalog to a local pawn shop and duplicated it for under $10.00. I've never wrenched much, but at age 64, I'm doing more and more. I also got an old Yamaha DT400 to restore and have learned a lot "practicing" on it. Learned something interesting - the Uly has reed valves, hence, the no adjusting required, so does the 1977 Yammer. As far as doing your own work and warranty issues, my local dealer said to keep detailed records (service log) and receipts for what I've bought and used. I have the 10k service coming up this spring and that should be really interesting. Be careful with the torque wrenches and don't confuse foot pounds with inch pounds. Torquing something 23 foot pounds, when 23 inch pounds is called for will create some damage. | ||
| Court |
>>>the Uly has reed valves Hehehehe . . .might want to go back and take one more look. | ||
| Svh |
I use a speed wrench and deep socket for adjusting the suspension. Makes it easy to count turns. Looks like this:  | ||
| Buellerxt |
You guys are AWESOME and your taking the time to comment is very appreciated. Well, after my last post earlier this afternoon I headed for Sears and though I have done nothing to the bike yet I AM PUMPED to get started! It is amazing how good I already feel. I bought a 154 piece Craftsman Mechanics Set with 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drivers. I also bought a four piece socket extension set for 3/8" drivers, a Torx socket set which includes a T-27(!), an oil filter wrench, a low profile oil drip pan, a funnel, and a dispensing container for the oil and filter that is re-usable. I have all three 2008 XB manuals (shop, parts, and elec. diagnostics), and WILL read the manual before starting. I'll also take my time. I am documenting and keeping receipts for my own purposes and for warranty purposes. My plan is to start with the engine oil, move to the primary and check the chain and change the oil. I have the oil, filter, and gaskets. Then I'll adjust the suspension. I plan to use a 8-1/2" socket extension to adjust the nuts on top of the fork legs. Is that what you guys do? Froggy mentioned I could do it with the tools under the seat but I don't know how I could turn those nuts '9' turns and keep track when only turning the nut 20-25% of a turn each time. Am I missing something here? Please speak up. After getting the suspension set, if I'm still young enough to ride, lol, I'll start looking at installing the 2" Rox Riser. When I get all three done, and done well, I'll call my indy. and cancel the appointment for mid week next week, the earliest I could get. Hopefully I will be riding by this Thursday and not waiting for next week. I was waiting because I don't want to exceed the miles for warranty purposes. I still may get the Buell tool kit but I need to accomplish something first. Ths. again guys. I NEED to do this and your input has been a big help. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Okay folks, if you can bare with me here, I'm reading my 2008 XB Shop Manual in preparation for servicing the bike tomorrow and I have a few questions. Ths. in advance. 1. The manual says apply Loctite 565 thread sealant on the engine and transmission drain plugs. Is that necessary? Do you? If so I need to see what it is and get some.My tech never did on my other bikes but . . . 2. I plan to follow the manual and just hand tighten the filter, as much as I can by hand. I also plan to snug up the drain plugs with a wrench, not real tight but snug, but without a torque wrench. Any problem? Again, my tech never used one on plugs or anything besides wheels but . . . 3. Do you put loctite on the chin fairing screws or just snug them up? 4. The manual says to disconnect the neg. battery cable before trans. drain/fill. Is this necessary? Again, my tech never did but . . . 5. The manual says stand the bike up to drain and refill transmission fluid. Is this necessary? I don't have a lift but could put a 2x4 under the kickstand if needed. Does it take a full quart? I don't plan to get into clutch adjustment this time. It seems fine to me. Input/suggestions will be appreciated. Ths. (Message edited by buellerxt on November 17, 2009) | ||
| Dfishman |
A two stroke Uly......Now that's interesting.I looked all over mine & could not find any reed valves.HeHe.Itileman,you will find out that Buell uses hydraulic lifters which are self adjusting.Reed valves are used in 2 stroke motors. | ||
| Court |
>>>I don't plan to get into clutch adjustment this time. It seems fine to me. Good news . . . I had never adjusted a clutch and had the first real need to on the road last year. I sat in a hotel parking lot while my wife talked me through the procedure in the manual. It's incredibly easy. Just wanted to let you know when you got to it. I may try to do a little photo thingy for you. I'm eager to see responses to your questions above from some of the more experienced folks. I've always done SOME service but am wanting to do more of my own too . . just for peace of mind. | ||
| Firstbatch |
XT, good on you for taking the service yourself. It will serve you well to know the in's-out's of the Uly. 1. It is good to have the Lokctite products in your tool chest at home. Red, Blue and the 565 sealant. The 565 sealant is always a goos idea to apply to the threads. No mandatory but I it is a good practice. 2. With experience snugging drain bolts is fine....to learn what snugging is starting with a torque wrench is a good idea. A clicker torque wrench should be in your tool chest as well. 3. The two screws that attach to the muffler on the chin fairing seem to want to work there way out if you do not check them no and again. No harm with a a bit of Blue Locktite on them. The others stay put fine. 4. THe manual will consistently tell you to disconnect the ground cable when working on the motorcycle. It is a best practice to avoid and chance of shorting the 12 volt system to ground. Rare that you could do that but it happens. Unnecessary when working on the drain bolts IMHO. 5. Not mandatory to stand her up but you can to get the last drops out. Yep 1 Qt. As Court said clutch adjustment is simple to check and complete and good to be familiar with the process ahead of a road trip. |
