| Author | Message | ||
     Florida_lime |
The Uly has been running well, especially with the cooler weather. Sometimes the fan wouldn't even come on when I turned the bike off after my 25 mile commute. BUT, in the last few days, I had the idle fluctuate erratically, going from 1200 to 1400 RPM and back, and feeling rough. At first I thought bad gas, as I had just filled up that morning. Only seemed to do it when the bike was fully warmed up, but it wasn't consistent. Fresh tank of gas this morning, so after my commute home, I let the bike sit at idle for about ten minutes. The fan cycled on a couple of times, and the idle seemed fine, but then seemed to drop down to 750-800 RPM. I gave it some gas, but it didn't seem very responsive. I let it idle down again, but then it stalled. I restarted the bike, but it started making a VERY metallic knocking sound,so I turned it off immediately. At that point, I checked the oil level, which was fine, and let it cool off. The fan ran for several minutes, and I let it cool down for a while. I went back out later and started it, but it doesn't sound good at all. Loud knocking sound, very metallic sounding, maybe from the lower end, but it's hard to tell. I shut it off again, but I think my Uly is toast.   | ||
| Scottykrein |
Did you try a TPS reset? I would think if it was really bad it would throw the engine light once or twice. | ||
| Tootal |
Well at first I was thinking intake manifold leak but that wouldn't cause loud noises! Check the primary drive sprocket on the crank. If loose it will sound like a rod knock. I can't think of anything that would cause both problems. Sounds like two different issues. Keep us posted. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to do a TPS reset - that was my first thought about the idle situation. That was the reason I let it idle. No check engine lights, either. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I'd pull the plugs, put the tranny in 5th and listen to the engine while you turn the rear wheel by hand. metallic sounds aren't something to play around with.. especially while the motor is running. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Well at first I was thinking intake manifold leak That was my 2nd thought; while it was idling, I sprayed WD40 around the intakes. No change in the idle, just too much WD40 smoke ! I checked the primary through the inspection port and clutch area, and couldn't find anything out of the ordinary. | ||
| Xbimmer |
'lime how many miles on your oil? | ||
| Thesmaz |
Do a "Hard" TPS reset so you can clean the gunk out of the TPS Sensor. As far as the loud metallic sound and strange idle, check to see if you've lost the exhuast flange nuts or if they are loose. Could be that you've got an exhaust leak or one of the exhaust manifolds is just flapping in the breeze. If that the case you should really buy 4 new exhaust nuts and Screaming Eagle gaskets. | ||
| Florida_lime |
'lime how many miles on your oil? Oil was changed 3,300 miles ago at 35,000 miles. Full synthetic, as usual. As far as the loud metallic sound and strange idle, check to see if you've lost the exhaust flange nuts or if they are loose. Everything checked out with the exhaust; thought of that also. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'd check the crankshaft sprocket next. You may be able to check it by jacking up the bike, putting it in gear, and rotating the back wheel back and forth. If you hear a clunk in the primary when you do that, that'd be a pretty good indication and it'd be fairly easy to fix. | ||
| Florida_lime |
I'd check the crankshaft sprocket next I assume you are referring to the front sprocket for the belt final drive ? I pulled the cover and checked that last night. I think 38,373 miles is all my motor is good for.  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Scott- no, I'm talking about the primary chain sprocket on the crankshaft. The nut occasionally loosens which will allow the sprocket to move back and forth on the splines on the crankshaft, producing a horrendous knock that sounds like something fatal. You'd have to remove the primary cover to fix it. Remove nut, clean nut and crankshaft threads, generously apply liquid red Loctite, replace nut and torque to ~240-250 ft-lbs (check manual to be sure of value). | ||
| Florida_lime |
OK, that's what Tootal suggested as well earlier. I did check through the clutch area and primary chain inspection port, but didn't find anything unusual there either. I did not pull the primary cover off to check it however. I will try putting it up and turning the rear wheel in gear when I get home. | ||
| Metaldude |
Thesmaz - I'm curious, how do you do a "hard" TPS reset? thanks! | ||
| Xbimmer |
Oil was changed 3,300 miles ago at 35,000 miles. Full synthetic, as usual. Try dumping it out and refilling with some dino 20/50, see whether that changes anything... | ||
| Thesmaz |
Metaldude See here: http://www.ukbeg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=22 3 I know that it's on Badweb somewhere but this is the one that I have bookmarked. | ||
| Florida_lime |
On the way home from work, I stopped at the VERY local KTM dealer (as opposed to 90 miles away for my Buell dealer). They will also work on most any brand of dirt bike, and I have known the mechanic for almost 15 years. I told him about the Uly, and he asked if I could bring it by, at least to listen to give some input. I loaded up the bike into the van when I got home, and brought it by. I started it up with 2 other people listening, and when the racket started, they both immediately said top end, not lower. I blipped the throttle slightly, and the noise quieted down substantially. I shut it off, and restarted it again. Only a slight ticking, with the idle still doing its 1200-1400 RPM fluctuations. Sounded a bit rough, too. I happened to check, and the rear header was not quite as hot as the front. A definite difference. I was feeling much better with the racket gone, so possibly there is a lifter or problem with the rear cylinder to explain things. I guess I'll hold off pushing the Uly off a cliff for the time being.  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Definitely sounds like a lifter that wasn't pumping up properly if it subsided after revving it slightly. A noise caused by any kind of broken part wouldn't just go away like that. The idle fluctuations are still a mystery... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Check your throttle body for a broken butterfly screw. It's rare, but it's happened to a couple. | ||
| Swimmonkey |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/465046.html | ||
| Bartimus |
I had idle problems with my '08, they replaced the IAT? and it was fine. | ||
| Rwven |
'07s don't have an IAC.... | ||
| Pkman |
I had the exact same symptoms as the op after I tried to reset the TPS with ECMSpy. I took it to the dealer and they reset it and it's fine now | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you're doing a TPS reset, you have to do an AFV as well. Mine (06) wouldn't go eight feet without stalling when I rushed the tech and he didn't do the AFV. Morale: don't chickenhawk or rush your technician. LOL. My 06 is also sensitive to resets; doing it by the book on digital tech (they gave up and just showed me how to do it myself, LOL), my idle always comes out high. Done it hot, cold, warm, wet, dry; I've done it and the techs have done it...I ride five miles after the reset and I'm always at a 2k idle. Turn it down with the knob and it's fine after that. Weird. | ||
| Thesmaz |
Ratbuell, Mine does the same exact thing! I have an 06 as well and I have to do the ride then adjust thing too. I think it has to do with the TPS mechanics being all gunked up and I'm going to do the hard TPS reset thing this winter and hope that clears it up. I also have a "sweet spot" when adjusting my idle, too much and she idle at 1200 or about, too little and she falls on her face, but hit the sweet spot - good to go. I'm going to look into that issue as well. | ||
| Etennuly |
The idle set just as much as 25 rpms too high can cause the idle to "hang" or "float" at 1500+. Have you pulled the plugs? It could be a broken plug electrode or ground pin, or if the throttle plate broke, a screw or piece of the plate could have been sucked into the cylinder. These things can cause ugly knocking that may or may not cause detrimental damage. I had it happen on a Honda single one time, where it detonated, broke the plug, which eventually bent the valve, and made hundreds of little dents in the top of the piston. Actually a fairly easy fix. What makes me think this is the kind of problem at hand, is the knock is heard in the top and it changed when you revved it a bit. That could move a loose piece around and possibly even eject it out the exhaust port, if it could get past the valve. When doing the TPS reset on the '06's I found it is a good thing to clean the throttle plate before doing the TPS reset. Have the engine fully warmed up, clean the throttle plate and bore, do the resets, final idle set around 980 to 1000 rpm. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Vern - mine's not a "hanging idle". I've gotten that too...this is a rock-solid, 2000rpm idle speed. Put it in first, grab the front brake, ease out the clutch to drop the revs some....pull the clutch back in and it goes right back to 2k. Plugs are new, wires are good, air filter is new (got a 10k when I returned from Buelltoberfest). It was done then, with a clean/hot throttlebody and idle set for 1050 (one needle-width above the "1" on the tach face). From here out, I'm just not gonna reset it. Ever. Unless I'm having problems (rideability, MPG, whatever)...I'm just gonna leave it be. | ||
| Etennuly |
From here out, I'm just not gonna reset it. Ever. Unless I'm having problems (ride-ability, MPG, whatever)...I'm just gonna leave it be. Hi Joe, I whole heartedly believe that to be a good idea for a lot of things. The old adage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" can ring true in these instances. You didn't wash it did you?  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Oh HELL no. They asked me after the 10k, and 07 fork springs, and 2 new tires...did I want 'em to wash it for me? I said don't you DARE. There was one clean spot on it on the 26th, where I put my Last Ride decal...but I've fixed that with a couple rides thru the mud and muck  | ||
| Sekalilgai |
wash? never! |
