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Buellerxt
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 11:51 am: | 
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That 'documentation' sounds great to me, Court!  I need all the help I can get. Actually though it's, just like you said, getting the experience. The experience builds confidence and then we're there!
What is the RSVP process? Ths. |
Panhead_dan
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 12:37 pm: |
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RSVP= Read, Study, Visualize, Perform.
Posted a few posts above.
As far as tire changing goes, dissassembly by the book is a must. The first stumbling block is breaking the bead. I've used C clamps and wooden 2x4's for years. I've also used a fulcrum made of wooden 4x4's and it worked much faster. More recently a friend fabbed me up a bead breaker out of scrap metal he had laying around it works way better. It also has the advantage of being real handy when mounting up the new tire.
The next thing would be tire levers. Available at any bike shop for $10 or so.
One would also need a reasonably high volume air source. A 12v compressor will fill a tire but it will not seat the bead. Soapy water and about 70 psi is whats needed. Tires have a line all the way around them that will show alignment with the wheel once the bead is seated.
I've never worried much about balancing other than to line up the dot on the tire with the valve stem and have run my bikes up to as fast as 165 mph with no tire issues. The wheel on my pan currently is the one exception. It's so far out of balance that it takes over an ounce of lead to even get close. If you look at a wheel balancing stand and think about it, it is no different than the wheel mounted to the bike with the brake removed. That is exactly what I use and it works fine. |
Pso
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 12:44 pm: |
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Buellerxt- One of my considerations that went into purchasing a Buell was the simplisity of working on it. As your confidence builds you will find that you take on more and more of the tasks that you were not sure of. Electragliders comment is excellent, the specific method of replacing the rear wheel must be followed exaclty. There was some speculation that the ham fisted wrenches at dealerships just over torqued down the read axle and perhaps caused bearing failure. This is a hypotheses nether accepted nor rejected at this time.I am not sure any dealer, unless very very buell savey will do it properly. The front wheel also is a piece of cake (just remember to follow your rule, work slowely and patiently, thus you will see on the front left leg the indication that the axle bolt is reverse threaded)and when you have the tire out replace the front pads if needed, another simple task. doing the brake fluid is also easy with the proper devices. I got a little check valve thing (I believe about $7 from some MC catalogue)that connects to the bleed nipple on the brake, just pump the brake and add new fluid. when the new clear stuff comes out tighten down the bleeder and your done. This is one tool that seems to get borrowed alot by my friends that do their own fluid swap outs.I also use the 535 for the drain plugs and locktit blue for the other bolts (I avoid the red like the plague, but would probably use the green when red is called for, this however is my preference your results may vary). When I purchased a 01 goldwing I got a lift from somewhere. when I purchased the Uly I made a little wooden cradle from a post on this web that fits perfectly under the muffler at the jacking points and I have lifted the bike many, many times with no problems. I have never had a problem w/ either the Goldwing, which weighs twice as much as bthe Buell, or the Uly on the lift. I did need to use the rafters of my lawn shed for my wfies WeeStrom the lift the rear to swap out her dogbone links to lower her bike and that also worked for me but I did not find the rafter method as stable as the floor lift. Perhaps one day u will do a total tear down who knows, wrenching does become addictive when you have the tools, space and time. Also now you will probaly not be able to go into a hardware store without checking out the tools.
Good luck and happy wrenching |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 12:45 pm: |
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Thank you Pan. Good info. I too am an RSVP type! I didn't make the connection above! lol Another example of why I like to go s-l-o-w until I have it down. lol |
Eulysses
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 04:31 pm: |
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Great thread. Just in time for those of us weaning off service departments. I do hope we can keep some good techs employed for the deeper things!
Buellerxt...did your Rox's need cable adjustments? I need those. Two inch, right? |
Skifastbadly
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 05:18 pm: |
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Somebody say "tire changes"? Read all about it here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39 9312
Now, since that time, I broke down and bought a motorcycle jack and bead breaker from Harbor Freight, and some real tire irons from someplace online. The longer tire irons are an absolute necessity. The jack and bead breaker are not necessary (although they're damned good to have).
Since we're on the subject of DIY, here's my roadside belt replacement thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52 0934
(Message edited by skifastbadly on November 20, 2009) |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 06:23 pm: |
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Pso,
Great input. Very helpful and encouraging. Thank you. I will re-read that several times.
Eulysses,
Yes, I installed the 2" ROX Risers. The top brake line bracket has to be removed to provide more slack but no other lines. I started the job by removing the fairing, putting a box wrench on the bracket nut protruding from the back of the headlight housing, and using a Torx T-27, on an extension, to unscrew the bolt from the inside. Once that was done I removed the bars and started the installation. It went well but I had my wife helping to hold the bar for me during the installation. You'll need a second set of hands or a way to hold the bars from above. If you do it and have any problems please get with me and I'll share what I did. It's raining here so I haven't ridden with them yet but they feel GREAT from the seat. I needed them with the stock 08' seat but I've since installed a tall seat with a sheepskin and I REALLY needed them. I think I may be the tallest seated 'road' motorcyclist in the country now!
Skifastbadly,
Thanks for the info. I'll read that carefully and get with you if I have questions. Much appreciated. Thank you.
(Message edited by buellerxt on November 20, 2009) |
Eulysses
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 06:45 pm: |
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Buellerxt...how do you like being a helper now?! Great...carrying on the BWB tradition of knowledge and encouragement. Thanks for that...that sounds simple. I am going for it. I too have the tall seat and was wanting that bar height even before the tall seat. The more my body can "open up" the better on my back. Also wondering about a drop foot peg but not sure if anyone makes it. Our low backs need the lumbar curve to properly stack (what is left of) our discs. Legs up or forward and bending over wreck that curve. Hard-tail choppers are for kids! Thanks. |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 07:32 pm: |
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Eulysses,
I'll be honest. It does feel good to be able to help a little after all the help I've received. This is a great forum and I hope it stays healthy and active for years to come. The ROX product is first class, looks great on the bike, and allows for a lot of adjustment. Very cool. Take care. |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 03:27 pm: |
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Wow, am I missing something here? I started looking over my service manual in preparation for future work and I was amazed at how difficult it 'appears' to be to check or change the spark plugs. The front looks easier, just the removal of one air duct and I believe I'll have access. Is that correct? Will I be able to check/change it with ample room?
The back plug is hidden and put in a precarious position from what I read. It appears that the air duct cover, air duct, and base plate have to be taken off just to get a 'glimpse' of the plug. Then we need a 12" extension and a 5/8" wobbler socket! Is there no easier way? I can see where folks who aren't 'very' careful not to cross thread, etc, could end up with a damaged engine if the plug isn't set properly and comes lose. Getting a 'feel' with a 12" extension and a wobbler is far from ideal. Can the plug be clearly seen with ample access after all that stuff is removed? Do you folks just lay the air duct over backwards toward the seat? I noticed when I checked my air filter that there are several wires/hoses attached. Any secret, but good, shortcuts for checking/changing the rear plug? Any warnings or suggestions? Ths. |
Firstbatch
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 03:41 pm: |
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The only time I have changed the rear plug is after rotating the engine during some other work. Your spot on about the difficulty factor doing it "as is". Personally I would not attempt it as it seems the potential to screw up the threads is to great.
Rotating the engine is a very straight forward operation and once you do it once it can be done rather quickly. |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 03:54 pm: |
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How long would you run that rear plug, Firstbatch? The book says 10,000 miles. I wonder why, particularly in such tough positions, platinum plugs can be run for 100,000 miles like cars do?
Rotating the engine! Wow, that sounds like anything but easy. |
Panhead_dan
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 04:48 pm: |
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It's not nessessary.
The rear plug is only tough the first time you do it. One trick I learned is that there is a rubber hose hanging right there in the way so I use it stuffed onto the plug to get it re-threaded back in. Also half the stuff the book has you remove for the rear plug does not need to come off. Use anti sieze on the new plug. |
Richardbiker
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 06:22 pm: |
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As Dan says, the book has you removing more parts than necessary. Using a piece of rubber tubing on the plug to re-thread it is the way to go. The toughest part is to "get" the angle right. Using the tubing and feeling your way will re-thread it easily. I didn't remove the air box base plate; once I had a visual and angle of access with the extension I went for it.
Kudos to you, BuellerXT for the humility to ask for help and the enthusiasm with which you are pursuing your new mechanical aptitude! |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 09:00 pm: |
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Thanks Dan and Richard. Much appreciated. The plugs are down the road a bit on the Uly but I'm enjoying having the right tools and working on the bike more than I thought I would, and I'm enjoying 'getting ready'. Your input is very helpful. On Monday I'm going to shop for a torque wrench. I hope I can get one that will handle small fasteners all the way to wheel nuts but I'm probably dreaming. We'll see.
My next service will be on my 96' Sportster! Very cool. |
Towpro
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 09:33 pm: |
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I was just in Harbor freight this afternoon. I saw one of those cable lubing devices (like the picture I showed above) hanging on a shelf! I think it was under $5.00 |
Pso
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 10:17 pm: |
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Plugs are easy. Do a search and there is a good write up. Also seems like plugs do not need to be changed as often as book says. i did mine based upon write up and removed harldy anthing to get to rear plug which by the way was in very good shape at 20,000 miles. Also w/early Buells do not blip throttle when you first start bike or fouled plugs may ensue. Let bike warm up a lttle before taking off also. I have two torques wrenches, one cliker from Craftsman and an inch/ounces for little things. If you get the cliker avoid using it as a breaker bar you will decalibrate it, don't ask me how I know. |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 10:17 pm: |
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I bought one, Towpro, but it has two screws. Other than that it is just like the one you posted. Do you use it for both the throttle and clutch cables? How often? I would think that cables made today would be coated but I'll learn to use it, and use it. Does any lubricant leak out?
Any tips on procedure and/or lubricant? Ths. |
Towpro
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 11:04 pm: |
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you have to disconnect the cable at the lever. then slide this tool over the cable, and onto the jacket and tighten up the screws. your lube can has a hose on it, put it into the hole of the tool. When you press down the top of the spray can, the lube in injected into the space between the jacket and cable and it will run out the other end.
I have not done my buell yet, but I would see if I can loosen up all the adjusters, and pull the cable jacket out of the trans enough to put the lubber tool on the cable at the trans, and shoot the lube up through the cable (don't forget to wrap a rag around the top of the cable). That way your not getting anything into the trans.
I used to use tri-flo but some times its hard to find. Last time I bought a can of cable lube from my local (jap) dealer. |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 11:39 pm: |
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Quote:Skifastbadly:Somebody say "tire changes"? Read all about it here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39 9312
Now, since that time, I broke down and bought a motorcycle jack and bead breaker from Harbor Freight, and some real tire irons from someplace online. The longer tire irons are an absolute necessity. The jack and bead breaker are not necessary (although they're damned good to have).
Since we're on the subject of DIY, here's my roadside belt replacement thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52 0934:Unquote
Skifastbadly! I just read your two 'instructional' pieces (lol) and laughed my butt off. You are good, Man! lol I'm not taking about tire changing or belt replacing, I'm talking about entertaining writing! Thanks for the laughs and congrats on your exploits. Very cool indeed. |
Court
| | Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 11:52 pm: |
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I couldn't get either of those links to work but would like to read the articles.
I'd also like the one on the plug change if someone can post it. |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 12:05 am: |
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Court,
If the two links I quoted won't open for you, Skifastbadly posted the same yesterday at 5:18p.m. and those should open.
I'd like to see the plug post as well. |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 12:28 pm: |
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Hey guys, now that I've jumped in and serviced both my Uly and Sportster, with your help and guidance, not only on technique but on tools, etc., I need to keep going and yes, that takes MORE help!
Before I can consider myself a 'Novice Tech in Training' I probably have to start using torque wrenches regularly, or do I? I have read about them and they seem straight forward but I'm concerned with several things. First, it appears I'll need an inch-pounds as well as a foot-pounds wrench but with everything from small screws to axle nuts I'm not sure what range I need and if too great a range on one wrench decreases accuracy/workability. Second, I've read poor reviews on the reliability of torque wrenches and wonder if only the top 'expensive' brands like Snap-On hold up. I've read about Sears' Craftsman failing pretty quickly and I've read really poor reviews on Harbor Freight torque wrenches. Calibration seems to be another issue. I've read that they need to be periodically re-calibrated and that of course costs, if you can even find where to get it done!
Do I really need torque wrenches if I'm not going into the motor? Is there a magical torque wrench out there that is very reliable, reasonably priced, accurate and doesn't need calibration (fingers crossed here!)? Ths. |
Pso
| | Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 12:59 pm: |
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As a beginer I would suggest you get a torque wrench. After several years and lots of experience you may be able to get a feel for the process and like some experienced folks here no longer need a t. wrench. Don't want to strip out the oil drain plug. |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 01:11 pm: |
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Pso,
I am careful to hand tighten my oil filter, as tight as I can get it by hand, and I hand tighten both drain plugs then just snug them a tiny bit. I am also very careful with the cam chain inspection cover and just snug it up then pay attention. If I ever see a drop of oil I'll snug it a tad more. I'm also very careful on the smaller fasteners like on the chin fairing. I try to be cognizant of stripping, etc., on all screws/bolts. Do I need a torque wrench? I've read of folks who never used them and then got one, followed the book, and stripped something with the torque wrench! |
Eulysses
| | Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 02:06 pm: |
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Bueller...you will need a torque wrench...actually two. Little one (inch/pounds) and big one. Eventually! I use em on my truck and lots of things. If only to get lug nuts "even" on a disc brake so you don't warp it. Deft snugging goes as long ways but if in doubt anywhere just torque em.
Also, would you compare this tool to your Harbor Freight tire tool?
http://www.gesusa.com/Ranger-RWS-3TC-Manual-Tire-C hanger-p/132801.htm |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 02:36 pm: |
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I've mounted my own tires for a while.
And I always balance them. But it frustrates me to throw away and then buy new weights.
So the last tire change I "hot-glued" the old weights back on. Works great! Easier to get off, too.
My part for the green revolution...
--Doc |
Eulysses
| | Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 04:56 pm: |
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Hey doc...compare the link above your pic to the Harbor Freight tool you use successfully and tell me if you think this puppy would make life nicer:
http://www.gesusa.com/Ranger-RWS-1B-Portable-Wheel -Balancer-p/135715.htm
Is that epoxy paint on your floor? |
Glenn
| | Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 05:04 pm: |
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Regarding reusing wheel balance weights, I have a roll of 3M double backed foam tape that I use. I clean the old stuff off of the weights and wheel and then apply a new piece of the foam tape to the weights, trim with a razor blade and apply. I've never lost one. |
Buellerxt
| | Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2009 - 07:57 pm: |
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What brand torque wrench do you guys use? Are they reliable? Do you get them re-calibrated? Ths. |
Etennuly
| | Posted on Friday, December 04, 2009 - 10:40 am: |
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Buellerxt,
The thing about a good (professional) torque wrench is you will not be using it all that much. It will last you for ever and be something to pass on to your kids when you are done.
I have a 1/2" drive clicker type that I bought in 1977. It is from the Vulcan tool company of that era. They were a competitor for Cornwell, Snap-on, Mac, etc. A high quality piece.
I have always primarily been a bodyman-painter. Mechanical stuff has been a part of my profession by default, I built many engines over the years, so to say I have used this wrench is correct, but not as much as a professional mechanic using it every week would have. I recently checked it's calibration with the Snap-on guy. He told me it was too old to be accurate, so after a bit of discussion we pulled out the ones he had on the truck. It is still as accurate as his new ones.
It is a one time purchase and non issue if you get a professional grade one. Cheap ones are just that, I would see arguing their calibration accuracy after a few dozen uses. |
Pso
| | Posted on Friday, December 04, 2009 - 11:31 am: |
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Bueller-also be aware that the 06 shop manual had the wrong torque specs for some of the bolts, most damaging was the oil drain bolt, several folks stripped it out by using the 06 manual specs. Someone had posted the updated specs, I am not sure if and when the corrrections were made to the manuals. |
Dr_greg
| | Posted on Friday, December 04, 2009 - 12:08 pm: |
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quote:Hey doc...compare the link above your pic to the Harbor Freight tool you use successfully and tell me if you think this puppy would make life nicer:
http://www.gesusa.com/Ranger-RWS-1B-Portable-Wheel -Balancer-p/135715.htm
Looks nice, but I use a horizontal-axis balancer from Marc Parnes.
Also use a Mojo-Lever for (de)mounting. Note that I do need to remove the rear pulley for tire work.
quote:Is that epoxy paint on your floor?
Actually an epoxy floor coating. Surprise gift from Dr. Greg's family upon his return from a moto-camping trip. It is the bee's knees...
--Doc |
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