| Author | Message | ||
     Unrealtrip |
Well in the never ending battle with cars, it doesn't hurt to be heard as well as seen. With the flashing super bright brake light I recently added I'm covered from the rear visually, but the meep meep horn had to get replaced with something that would create a little more, presence. Along came the Stebel Nautilus which I think we're mostly familiar with. Anyway, nice clean install, fits up nicely behind the windscreen, using a relay tripped by factory horn switch, 12ga wire straight to batt w/a 20amp fuse. The completed install, headlight plug is that loose one, I was adding dielectric grease.  Used black 12ga wire for a nice factory look  Closed up, nice and tight  Last but not least, video with before and after sound  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZ1Wd78c2Vs | ||
| Mikef5000 |
LOL! Damn keys are never where you left them! I'll be getting one of those horns at some point. Thanks for the info! | ||
| Rwven |
That's exactly how I mounted mine. It fits very well right there. | ||
| Hooper |
This should be a mandatory upgrade right out of the factory. Loud horns save lives. | ||
| Glen |
LOL i liked the smile when he blasted that thing.  | ||
| Ourdee |
When I ran wires to the front from the battery I ran three wires; a dedicated negative, a dedicated positive, and a spare wire for later. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
A good place to mount a relay is to remove the blinker module and then mount the relay right behind it using the same screw. If you look at that photo at the top of this thread you can see the screw that holds the blinker module. The blinker module and the relay body will be back with the relay sitting on the fairing casting. The relay's mounting screw hole only needed to be slotted out with a drill bit and that was all it took. This method let's you mount a relay without using a zip tie or drilling and tapping a new hole and is very solid. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on November 13, 2009) | ||
| Rwven |
You'd be wise to provide some abrasion protection to that #12 MTW. When I ran mine I used a piece of 14-3 SEOW, plenty of abrasion protection plus up to 3 circuits if you use the chassis for ground. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
If you find a horn of a tuber buell and you hook it with the original horn, it also makes a great improvement, you just need to make metal late to hook it to one of the side bolts and in the place of the stebel nautilus, and you still have plenty of place to add bit'n'pieces under the front screen | ||
| Unrealtrip |
"You'd be wise to provide some abrasion protection to that #12 MTW" Hrmmm that's a good point, if that ever wears through it will immediately short to the frame. I think I'm going to do that this weekend.} | ||
| Ratbuell |
I always fuse any hot leads I add. The #12 on my Uly for the aux light relay is fused less than three inches from the terminal on the battery. At least that way if it rubs through, I only pop a fuse (as opposed to doing welding on the frame). | ||
| Rwven |
Absolutely, fuse them. Mine are all fused just short (no pun intended) of the battery. | ||
| Cragfiend |
Hi, I'm electronically challenged. Would you mind posting a little bit more on how to install the relay? | ||
| Unrealtrip |
Cragfiend: It is actually super easy. There are a few illustrations you can reference but basically the relay has 4 connections that go onto it. 2 of them you just plug your factory harness straight into, these are the ones that activate the relay. In fact, after you do this you can turn on the bike and hit the horn and you should hear the relay trip. It is a clicking sound, and when you let go you'll hear it "unclick" The other two are also simple connections, one wire goes back to your battery with a 20amp inline fuse close the battery (I can post a pic if you want it) and the other wire simply goes to one of the connections on the new horn. The other connection on the new horn just goes to ground. It might seem complex, but once you've got it in front of you it really is quite simple. I'd just make sure to do what Rwven mentioned and in addition to using a good heavy gauge wire to the battery, cover it with split loom tubing or something for abrasion resistance. If you want more or detailed pix I can take some. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Here you go. http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/headlight-simple .htm Where it says "STOCK High Beam Wire", that is where you would have your switch to send juice to the relay magnet coil so that when you switch it "ON", the coil energizes and pulls the wire over to "close" the circuit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8Os4WFUALA (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on November 13, 2009) | ||
| Ronmold |
Don't recommend grounding to a moving part of the flyscreen. The bearings are your contact points and arcing could occur reducing the head bearing life. Ground to the flyscreen stock ground point with some high strand count/high flex wire. Redo your factory grounds with that same kind of wire while you're at it. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Ground to the flyscreen stock ground point But the flyscreen is a moving part. I don't understand where you recommend grounding too. | ||
| Ronmold |
The factory ground point on the non-moving steering head just above the lower steering head bearing where all the other grounds (which will all break off eventually) are attached. http://s678.photobucket.com/albums/vv141/ronmold/U ly%20flyscreen%20grounds/?albumview=slideshow | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Thanks! | ||
| Unrealtrip |
Ronmold & Rwven: Thanks guys, totally good info. I went out and changed the ground to the factory frame one on the headtube and also put splitloom over pretty much all the exposed wire, much cleaner and I feel better about it now Only one spot I couldn't cover with split loom was where the power wire goes through the frame at the base of the shock area with the factory bundle, it was a pretty tight fit in there for even the small split loom I have. Does anyone know where you get that "fabric tape" you see the factory stuff wrapped in? That'd work good for that section probably. | ||
| Cragfiend |
Thanks Unreal, Thanks Electraglider! Between the diagrams and the instructions I am pretty sure I can do that. The horn will work well for those times cage drivers don't hear my fan! |
