| Author | Message | ||
     Verdad |
Hello All - Getting ready to do an oil change and went to remove the chin fairing, and low/behold a stripped Torx bolt... I did a search on BW for this and found lots of posts regarding pulleys and engine Torx issues, but I didn't see anything about removing a stripped bolt from a recessed fairing situation. Any suggestions? I've tried every different Torx, star, hex bit/wrench I have to no avail. Also, any advise regarding replacements for these if there are alternatives? TIA for the help. Russ | ||
| Glen |
i'd hit it with a penetrating oil, let it sit a while, smack it a few times, and use an ez out. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Be sure your using a T-27 and not a T-25, dont ask me how I know! | ||
| Hmartin |
After the penetrating oil, you might try tapping a hex key in there first before going to the trouble of an E-Z Out. | ||
| 99savage |
I would try drilling out w/ a left hand drill before going to an "E-Z Out". (Have yet to have a good experience w/ one. Always end up having to try & remove a broken "E-Z Out". - Same thing w/ tap removers.) | ||
| Alchemy |
Had the same problem the first time I did an oil change on my Uly. Get the right torx for sure. But once it is spinning there is little to be done (depending on which bolt it is)in my experience. I tried to heat it with a soldering iron but no luck. I then tried PB blaster and let it soak for a day or so. If you can get it to move at all then that is really good even if it is the wrong way. Just keep working it and use the PB Blaster. The problem is the Locktite. Mine ended so bad that I had to use a dremel tool and a thin wheel to grind a new slot in the head of the bolt for a flat blade screwdriver. Small damage to the plastic but no one can see it. Good luck. It has not been a problem since but I am careful. | ||
| Prowler |
Had this happen to my bike (all I had was a torx 25, needless to say, not good). Anyway, drill out the the screw with a drill bit sized the same diameter as the step in the screw. That way, when the head comes off, you can pull the chin spoiler and you still have the stepped part of the screw to grab on to with a set of vise grips. worked for me. (I also hit it with some liquid wrench once the spoiler was off). good luck..... | ||
| Reepicheep |
If it were me, once the head was good and stripped, I would drill off the head and remove the chin fairing. You will drill into the head, and not go very far in, and the whole head will just pop right off, leaving the threaded shaft in the hole. Once the chin fairing is off, you might have enough threaded shaft to get it with vice grips, or slot it with a dremel tool and hit it with an impact screw driver. If that rips the top off, then just start carefully drilling. Hopefully it's one that goes into the exhaust, so if you have to weld a fresh nut on the back it's not a big deal. Regardless, once the chin fairing is out of the way, it'll be easier. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Doh! Missed Prowlers post. Do what he did.  | ||
| Etennuly |
Hell, if I was doing it I would drill the head off with a 5/16 drill bit, the head will come right off then you can.....  .....tune in tomorrow for the rest of the story! | ||
| Itileman |
Once I got my stripped torx head screw out using an impact driver, I have replaced the torx bolts on the chin fairing, primary cover and inspection cover with allen heads. | ||
| Verdad |
Situational dependent, all good suggestions. Just for GP, I ordered an EZ out kit from Amazon this morning. Figured it couldn't hurt. 'Spose I'll do a combination of everyone's recommendations. Start with the WD-40, and ease into the EZ out if necessary. I like the advice of going to the allen head option. What size should I look for, and where abouts can they be had? Thanks to everyone for all the help. Russ | ||
| Ulyessesman |
theres nothing u cant find on amazon.com | ||
| Reepicheep |
The easy out absolutely can hurt, and hurt bad. They are made of a hardened steel of some kind, and if (or in many peoples view... when) they snap off wedged in the head of your screw, now you have a *real* problem. You can't drill through the stuff, and you cant get it out because it is embedded in there *tight*. You just armor plated and plugged the hole you need to get that screw out.  (If you try it, and it snaps off, the way to get that tip out is with a tungsten carbide bullet shaped dremel bit and a dremel tool. Take your time, and be careful as it will spray little splinters of razor sharp hardened steel that like to embed themselves in hands and eyeballs.) Good luck! Easy outs can work, but the risk of making the problem worse is *extremely* high. | ||
| Frito |
EZ outs should be the last resort, as said hardened steel can be worse than the original problem. Try *everything else* first. People complain about torx and switch to allens. The only benefit is that if you use the wrong size allen it strips out faster. I believe that the majority of torx issues are caused by using the wrong sized tool. I've never stripped one and have used torx to torque head bolts on some Ford applications. Folks using a 25 in a 27 sized hole seems very common in the HD/Buell applications. | ||
| Tastroman |
From a new Uly owner, Are you putting red lock tight on the torx like the manual suggests when you reinsert them? | ||
| Armymedic |
I add no new lock tight on mine. What's already on there seems to hold just fine. |
