| Author | Message | ||
     Pso |
Folks: After reading about the wiring within the fuel pump and the problems with the 06's I decided to go ahead and fix mine today. I had read all the posts and pics of the fixes. Most said that it was not a tough job and no need to take off swing arm. I got pump out ok, lots of wiggling etc. Now here is the problem, I cannot get it to seat in properly to be able to get the bolts it. Are there any secrets to getttting the thing to reseat? Thanks | ||
| Bienhoabob |
Mine went in with no tricks what so ever. Maybe take it out again and retry. Put the four bolts on as if putting on a car tire. A little at a time on each bolt until it's in.  | ||
| Snowscum |
Did you replace the old seals? I had to cause there was no way I was going to get them back in. | ||
| Skinstains |
Oil the O-rings and part of the pump that goes in the frame and put it in perfectly strait, then pull it in slowly by turning all four of the bolts a little bit at a time. | ||
| Etennuly |
Make sure you have it oriented correctly. The fuel outlet should be up. If it is turned to the wrong orientation it will hit inside. I used vasoline on the large 'O' rings. A couple taps with the wood handle of a hammer got it in far enough to get the bolts started with out worry of cross threading or stripping them. | ||
| Pso |
Thanks folks: I still cannot get it in, used vasaline. I have ordered new o-rings for the base of the pump, (also the gas feed line stud and drain plug o-rings, I do not intend to do this again). Is there something in the frame that may be blocking the pump from going in? Is there the potential that I have bent something when extracting the pump? I am thinking about disconnecting the rear shock and lifting the bike on my lift and thus let the swing arm drop down, do you think this would give me more clearance for manipulating the pump back in? I am starting to have nightmares about this thing, and now I am also getting out the longjohns and skiing clothing becaue it is getting mighty cold in the garage. Any ideas suggestions etc are greatly appreciated. | ||
| Nipsey |
Any ideas suggestions etc are greatly appreciated. I am goingto do this in the next week or two for the same reasons you are - so no real suggestions to help other than:  and  | ||
| Bienhoabob |
per the manual, disconnect the rear shock. This gives you clearance to slide the pump in. When you said you have read all of the posts, I assumed you knew about putting the bike on a lift and disconnecting the shock. Without doing this, you are probably coming in at a weird angle. Lift the bike, get rear shock out of the way, and cross your fingers. | ||
| Pso |
Nipsey: Thanks, the first is what I have when I come back in from garage. The second option is not real great at this time due to gas fumes from draining the last of the tank, hopefully this will abate by the time I am able to get back out there w/o-rings in hand. Also I ran the bike till empty but there was still some gas left and it does not drain nice and easy to the ground for a drain pan, it sort of shoots out towards the rear tire area then rungs down onto the muffler and then to a drain pan. Seems like if the shock removal and lift works it is a very easy job, but right now it is not alot of fun or easy. Bienhoabob-Thanks, I do not have a copy of that post, I printed out some of the posts on pump removal but must have missed the ones on diconnecting rear shock. Do you remember if it states best to take of lower or upper bolt or just take shock out? I have bike on lift now, I was hoping to get clearance by getting rear wheel of ground but I guess I just did not get enough. | ||
| Etennuly |
You can put a jack under the rear of the muffler, take out the lower rear shock bolt, then jack it up until the tire just starts to lift off the ground. If you got it in and out without doing that, pull it back out and see if you can straighten things back out. I believe they are flexible enough to bend without harm. Here is how mine looked when it was ready to go back in.    | ||
| Sekalilgai |
+1 on removing the rear shock to help get things lined up. I started with some longer bolts as well to get it 'seated' before going back to the 'real' bolts..... good luck! | ||
| Pso |
Thanks and also the pics are going to be a big help. Now back to the frigid garage, at least it is inside. | ||
| Pso |
Folks: Thanks for the ideas/suggestions. got it in. took about a half hour the secret was that lowe shock bolt, simple to remove and reenstal. Also no leaks. | ||
| Bienhoabob |
 | ||
| Pso |
Nipsey, Several things, have the O rings in case you need them. I needed (NEEDED) 1 of the rings for the base of the pump. I got the others just in case (I have the part #'s for all but the drain plug O-ring if you need the #'s). I did not want to do it a second time due to leaking. Also taking teh lower shock bolt is the key, it would have made this a much easier job from the start.The other thing is if you are good at fabricating I would make a puller tool just to make the job easier. And has been noted above, run the bike until empty draining out the fuel is a mess and stinks up the garage. My wires were in good shape and showed no signes of chaffing, but I put the zip ties on as buffers like someone had posted. I believe I have completed all the PM that needs to be done to prevent total failure in the hinterlands. In retrospect if I had it to do over, I would just make a puller of some sort ot get the pump out, then job would have been very quick and easy. | ||
| Snowscum |
Running a long 1/4-20 in the back hole worked as a tool to get the pump out. | ||
| Pso |
Snowscum_Tell me more please. If I interpret correctly you thread the bolt into the hole and just pull it out? |
