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Sweetfish89
| Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 08:07 am: |
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I just got my new drive belt in. What is the easiest way to install it? I know you take off all the belt guards and front pulley cover. Do you just take off the back wheel and walla the belt just goes right on? |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 09:12 am: |
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Best to refer to the shop manual, but this is pretty close: After removing belt guards, loosen rear axle pinch bolt, back out rear axle ~25 turns, remove footpeg assembly, remove swingarm section. Slide belt off. Installation is reverse of removal; new belt will be appreciably tighter than old one. Re-torque axle per the shop manual (~25 ft-lbs, back out two full turns, then ~50 ft-lbs). Oh yea- save the old belt as a spare. It is pre-stretched and will be much easier to install road-side if necessary. (Message edited by Hughlysses on October 30, 2009) |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 09:28 am: |
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The rear axle is apple-core shaped. If you unscrew the rear axle, the wheel is allowed to move forward. The new belts are tight as hell! Like you can play a tune on them. Oh yeah and don't forget the "secret panel" on the swingarm. Remember not to twist the new belt or you'll cause it internal damage. I tried replacing a belt on the side of the road earlier this year and didn't know about the rear axle trick. Even removing the idler wasn't enough to get the damn thing on there. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 09:29 am: |
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oops. I type slowly and and I got a call here at work. sorry about the redundant post. |
Sweetfish89
| Posted on Saturday, October 31, 2009 - 08:05 am: |
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Does the axle screw counterclock wise? What is the secret panel and how do you get it off? |
Gamdh
| Posted on Saturday, October 31, 2009 - 09:07 am: |
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Does this help...
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Pso
| Posted on Saturday, October 31, 2009 - 09:12 am: |
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Gamdh-Does your little springy thing on the idle pulley help w/ the replacement? Also is there any results showing better bearing and belt life with that fancy little idler pulley? |
Sweetfish89
| Posted on Saturday, October 31, 2009 - 09:26 am: |
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Thanks got this after I did mine. You don't have to loosen the rear wheel at all just remove the "secret part" and all the belt guards. I put the bike on cinder blocks and remove the peg plates. Then just put the belt on and spin the rear wheel till the belt goes completely around the rear sprocket. Took about hour and half when not knowing what you are doing. Probably 30mins or so if you know what you are doing. |
Gamdh
| Posted on Saturday, October 31, 2009 - 09:32 am: |
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The springy thing is the Free Spirits Modified Belt Tensioner. When you put the new belt on you can get the tensioner to deflect down with gives you a little more room to get the belt on. The new belt was very tight.. and it did require a little effort. I would think the spring made it a little bit easier since it can move down a little. As far as long term belt/bearing... time will tell. I changed my belt and rear bearings at the same time I added the new tensioner. It was around 36K miles... the belt did not fail, I just decided to put on a new one. The bearings... technically did not fail.. but were in very bad shape and I'm probably lucky they didn't fail while I was riding. I know have just under 12k with this setup... so far so good. But until I get the same mileage racked up on these.. can't really know for sure. Not sure I'll get that far on the rear wheel.. I have an '10 wheel sitting in the garage for my next tire change. I'm going to go ahead and put it on... the current wheel/bearings are fine... just a preemptive move on my part. |
Skifastbadly
| Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 03:55 pm: |
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Gamdh: Based on your photo, you removed far too much bike to get the belt on. There's a piece of the frame on the right side that's held on by six hex screws. If you take that off, you can put the belt on and not have to remove nearly as much as your photo indicates. On the day this was posted, I ended up replacing my belt in the field. Story here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52 0934 |
Gamdh
| Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 08:06 pm: |
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umm.. If you look at the pic you will notice a big gap in the frame....that would be where I took that part off.... as for the rest I did that because I added the 'springy' thing at the same time. |
Skifastbadly
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 12:37 am: |
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uh....nevermind |
Paint_shaker
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 10:58 am: |
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IMO (yours may vary), Anytime you replace a belt, it would be a good idea to replace the bearings. |
Gamdh
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 01:00 pm: |
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+1 on the bearings... I replaced mine just before I did the belt and spring tensioner |
Skifastbadly
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 05:10 pm: |
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I replaced my bearings about 1500 miles before the belt crapped out. |
Swampy
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 09:57 pm: |
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Gamdh, Do tell about the belt tensioner.....inquiring minds want to know. |
Gamdh
| Posted on Saturday, November 14, 2009 - 09:28 am: |
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Free Spirits Modified Belt Tensioner.. bought from one of the sponsers : Trojan Horse. I like the concept of the spring.. no real data one way or the other as to how well it really works over time. from above
quote:As far as long term belt/bearing... time will tell. I changed my belt and rear bearings at the same time I added the new tensioner. It was around 36K miles... the belt did not fail, I just decided to put on a new one. The bearings... technically did not fail.. but were in very bad shape and I'm probably lucky they didn't fail while I was riding. I know have just under 12k with this setup... so far so good. But until I get the same mileage racked up on these.. can't really know for sure. Not sure I'll get that far on the rear wheel.. I have an '10 wheel sitting in the garage for my next tire change. I'm going to go ahead and put it on... the current wheel/bearings are fine... just a preemptive move on my part.
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