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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through August 18, 2009 » Actuator blues « Previous Next »

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Conchop
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Got my C-kit in, Download comes Thursday. Did my 10K service. Painted the rusty muffler. Discovered my exhaust valve actuator has jumped time. The valve will not close completely, not even close.

When I disconnect the cable, the actuator functions just fine, but it appears to be about 90 degrees counter clockwise. The cable is well lubed and the valve functions properly. When it is reconnected, it works once, but never returns. It binds up.

Questions: Has anyone had this happen?

Is this module adjustable?

I have the cable disconnected and she seems to run with less vibration [ a demon problem I've had from the git-go ]- closed valve or cooler rear jug???? Both ????

I still have warranty but this is the 2nd time the actuator has failed. If there is a quickie fix, I'm all ears.

Thanks in advance.
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Florida_lime
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 10:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Original style or updated (metal gear) version ?
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Conchop
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Good question - I did not know there was an updated version. I think that it has jumped time but have no real idea why the lil gizzmo is so far out of where is should be. She runs better with the valve closed but I know it doesn't make as much power overall. I'll play with it some more.
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Florida_lime
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think the updated version is .AA, the original is .AAA . The new one also has a bigger weld blob in the center of the metal pulley on top.
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Conchop
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 02:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Well, you have my interest. Time to go pull her apart!
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Florida_lime
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I tried to search - someone showed pictures of both the original and updated ones.
Only thing I could verify was the new PN -- S1138.1AA

(Message edited by Florida_lime on August 08, 2009)
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Husky
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 03:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My 08 parts Manual lists it as S0138.2AAA

Husky
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Hughlysses
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here's a photo of a broken one from Dr_greg's recent thread:



I'd bet something similar has happened to yours.
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Florida_lime
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My 08 parts Manual lists it as S0138.2AAA

That's the .AAA shown above !
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Froggy
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 09:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

They have revised it at least 3 or 4 times, I honestly am not sure what the current part number is.
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Conchop
Posted on Saturday, August 08, 2009 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I checked it and its a AAA. It has completely failed now [ funny noises and no go at all] and the check engine light is on. I fixed the light with black tape!

This is obviously an issue. I will take it back to the dealer for the warranty fix. It gripes me to deal with lil plastic gizzmo's that will inevitably go boom. Thankfully, she still runs and buzzes like always.
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Florida_lime
Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 04:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I JUST replaced mine with the S1138.1AA, mine was doing the funny gear grinding noises sometimes I think the Uly vibes would vibrate it into a non-working mode, or back to working.

and the check engine light is on.

I'd pull the trouble codes to verify that is your only issue to be safe.
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Someday
Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here's pictures of the old and new. The new is on the left, the old is on the right. So far the new actuator seems to be holding up.

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Conchop
Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Great pics - My pulley was every bit of 90 degrees+ counterclockwise. Thanks.
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Florida_lime
Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Notice how the old version has the screw instead of the weld ?

My pulley was every bit of 90 degrees+ counterclockwise

That might be why !
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Someday
Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Florida,
On the old actuator the shaft was peened over where it came thru the cam. After mine crapped out I took it apart (the new units are riveted shut) and ended up grinding off the peened area to dismantle the cam and see what was screwed up. There is a very strong butterfly spring within the plastic gear. I believe it allowed some give when the actuator went thru it's travel if the cable wasn't set perfect. This spring distorted the gear to the point that it bound up and wouldn't function. In an effort to get the unit working temporarily, I heated the spring to remove some of the tension. I then had to drill and tap the shaft for a screw to put it back together, hense the screw you see. I couldn't tig weld it as the heat would have melted the gear. I'm guessing the new unit has a metal gear, that is why the new shaft/cam is welded.
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Xbimmer
Posted on Sunday, August 09, 2009 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mine has been throwing the 21 code recently so I opened mine up today:




It looks OK but if you look closely you can see the final gear to the pulley is canted a bit, I don't know whether it all straightens out when the cover is replaced.

I'm getting tired of all the niggling crap that's starting to happen...
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Someday
Posted on Monday, August 10, 2009 - 08:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That thing is toast. The gear, with the black plastic cam in the center, is being spread so it binds. This is exactly what happened to mine. The new unit solved the problem. Also, they riveted the new unit together so you can't dismantle it.
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Conchop
Posted on Monday, August 10, 2009 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My pulley wasn't screwed but it looked like its a rivet. Ghosts of HD! She will certainly teach you the essence of a toolbox and Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance.

PS - Welcome to WV to all those riding to the rally.
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