| Author | Message | ||
     Jonsocal |
OK, I was wondering first, what is involved in a tuneup for a ULY. Second, what is a reasonable price for a tuneup? One of the reasons why I did not go with a BMW or other bike is the fact that the Uly is a lower maintenance machine. That and the cost of the maintenance is usually less than it would be at KTM or BMW or Ducati repair shop. I do have some minor coughing issues when starting from a long stop at a light sometimes, but that is the worst of it at this point. (I have put less than 300 miles onto this bike since purchasing it with 24k on the clock last week from a non-Buell dealer.) TIA Jonsocal | ||
| Froggy |
Whats a tune up? There is two spark plugs, and possibly a TPS reset. | ||
| Rwven |
Change the spark plugs, adjust the primary chain, check the tightness of "critical" fasteners. Thats about it. For the price of a few tools and the Buell shop manual you are set for the life of the bike. Edit: What Froggy said, mine's an 08 so the TPS can be set without a computer.... (Message edited by rwven on June 18, 2009) | ||
| Ulynut |
I just went to Danbury H.D./Buell and bought.. air filter oil filter clutch inspection cover gasket primary inspection cover gasket 4 quarts 20W50 oil 1 quart formula+ Buell traction grips I think it came to $110.00 . I would have to check the recipt to get the exact figure. | ||
| Staves |
Hey John: Welcome to BadWeB! If you don't have the service manual yet, it's the best $40 you can spend on your bike. Unless you have the ECMSpy software and cable, the dealer will have to do the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) reset for you. Otherwise, our Ulys are pretty easy to maintain. All the info you'll need is in the Service Manual and right here on the site. | ||
| Jonsocal |
Sweet. I was quoted $350.00 at a place to remain un-named locally. I thought it was a bit outrageous....  | ||
| Ourdee |
Ulynut, No O-rings? | ||
| Froggy |
$350 sounds about right for a 5k interval service. The owners manual and service manual both have the schedule, but its basically change oil and filter, and then inspect/replace some stuff like the clutch cables and tires, then clean the oil cooler and go for a ride http://www.buell.com/om/99477-06Y_en/file-13.asp | ||
| Etennuly |
Did they change the torque spec in the book for the oil drain plug yet? The have got to know it is wrong by now! | ||
| Ulynut |
I already have a box of O-rings. Oh, and teflon tape too.  | ||
| Crusty |
I don't use teflon tape on my drain plugs. I've got a bottle of Loctite 545. It works better and easier. | ||
| Froggy |
Meh, my swingarm and drain plug are so filthy that the grime that gets stuck in the threads holds it. | ||
| Bigdaddy |
^^^ mine too Froggy  I have to pressure wash the grime off to find the plug (making sure that I pressure wash bearings and all the electrical parts too!) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Be careful of loctite (liquid) on a drain plug...it can get into the oil. Not end-of-the-world...but probably an "oil additive" you don't want. Get a bottle of dri-slide for your cables (throttle/idle/clutch). GET A MANUAL. Do your control adjustments. 5k is fluids/cable adjustments/primary adjustment. 10k adds a tuneup (2 plugs, 2 wires). 20k adds fork oil. Air filters as needed. Oil filter with every fluid change. Do yourself and your bike a favor. GET THE MANUAL. If you're gonna do it, do it right. | ||
| Od_cleaver |
I use Loctite PST 565 Thread Sealant as specified in the Buell Shop Manual. I keep the sealant away from the first 2 or 3 threads of the oil plug. To clean the swing arm threads before replacing the oil plug, I use a tap. I very carefully, using only the tips of my fingers, screw the tap into the hole. I do the same thing to my Harley (oops, there goes my credibility). When I asked the service manager at the local shop, he said that they also used a tap to clean out the hole. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I gotcha. I always hesitate to use a wet sealer on a drain plug...but then, I have clumsy hands and don't always miss the last couple threads  | ||
| Xbimmer |
The Loctite/Permatex 565 Sealant works great on the drain plugs. I always clean thoroughly with brake cleaner and use a new o-ring, and wipe out the internal threads with a rag and brake cleaner. Snug with a box end wrench and DON'T USE the '06-'07 Service Manual torque specs for the drain plugs. Even Buell's online manuals still list the torque as 29-34 lbs/ft, changed to 26/29 for 2008 which personally I think is still too high. |
