Author |
Message |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Sunday, June 07, 2009 - 11:23 pm: |
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I'm hoping for a miracle here. I am from Ohio about 6000 miles into my trip to Alaska. I'm on the return leg now. I started hearing a popping today on my last gas stop about 100 miles ago. I inspected my rubber mount when arriving into Skagway and it looks different, probably broken. Here are my questions: Bike is a 2007 Uly still under warranty. I am boarding a ferry in Skagway tomorrow evening 9:00 P.M. Alaska time. I will be changing ships in Ketchikan on Wednesday afternoon. Only option I see now is to get the rubber mount from Prince George, BC Buell dealer to the one in Prince Rupert so that when I get off the ship Prince Rupert can replace the mount. I don't think I should ride the bike any further than to the dock and off the dock if at all. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mark |
Bosh
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 01:52 am: |
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Are you talking about this:
? Hopefully the dealer will have one in stock. Easy fix if he does. If they don't have one and can't get it fast enough let me know. I have a new spare that I was saving for when mine wears out. Maybe I can next day air it if needed. You can send it back to me when you get home. |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 02:35 am: |
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Yes, that's the piece. I am looking for the pictures I've seen before of a failed one to make sure I am correct. I'll let you know if I need one. I'll be calling Buell Customer Service as soon as they open. Thanks, Mark |
Bienhoabob
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 08:05 am: |
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There is a pic of a good one about 3/4ths of the way down on http://palmerproducts.auto.officelive.com/buellxb1 2x.aspx Bad one has no gap between rubber and bolt. |
Gamdh
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 08:25 am: |
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Here is a thread with a good side by side pic good vs failed http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/283160.html |
Staves
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:05 am: |
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BTW - mine's toast, too (sorry for hijack) What is the part # for the front isolator replacement? Thanks. - Scott |
Etennuly
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:11 am: |
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The part number is L1501.02A8. If that is all that is wrong with it, it will not hurt the bike to ride it. You will just receive a bunch of engine vibes to all of your body parts. A friend of mine did about 600 miles before figuring out what was causing the vibrations. |
Staves
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:26 am: |
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I'm seeing the following part #s: L0501.02A8 L0501.02A8A L0501.02A8C L1501.02A8 Etennuly: is L1501.02A8 the most recent kit for the front isolator? I'm definitely feeling vibes, but as a recent '06 Uly owner, it's hard to tell normal from abnormal vibes! |
Gamdh
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:29 am: |
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Vern is correct.. when I ordered mine I ordered L1501.02A8 '07 version Supersedes '06 (L0501.02A8C ) |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:40 am: |
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I'm definitely feeling vibes, but as a recent '06 Uly owner, it's hard to tell normal from abnormal vibes! It never hurts to check your primary chain adjustment. A loose chain will definitely add vibes. |
Etennuly
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:44 am: |
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Yes it is the updated version "kit" that includes the bolt. Don't feel bad about paying for the bolt if you don't need it. I have seen many of them corroded pretty bad. It is a good idea to put some anti-sieze on this bolt when you put it in. The kit was $82.50 from my dealer, back in February. |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:53 am: |
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Thanks for all the help guys. I guess my mount is okay based on the pictures of good and bad. I'm not sure what the popping/clicking is though. It happens during engine idle and you always hear it when shutting it off. Any suggestions? |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 10:03 am: |
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Mark- that's a weird one. Well, it would be easy enough to check the primary chain (outside chance that could be related). Two screws and the inspection cover comes off. A VERY loose primary chain might cause a noise like that. |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 10:09 am: |
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I should also mention that the engine vibration does not seem worse. |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 10:14 am: |
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Hughlysses: Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check that next. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 10:16 am: |
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The crankshaft primary sprocket nut has occasionally worked loose on these bikes; this causes a knocking sound. I don't know if there'd be any easy way to diagnose that short of pulling the primary cover. |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 10:59 am: |
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On the primary sprocket nut: what is the failure or how far can I ride the bike like this? I have 3200 miles to get home. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 11:08 am: |
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Nothing would be broken (yet); the nut just backs off. If it were to come off completely, that would be BAD news. Fix is remove shifter and primary cover, remove nut, clean threads (male and female), apply healthy coat of red Locktite and torque to latest spec (~250 ft-lbs IIRC) and reassemble. The possibility of a loose nut is a pure guess on my part at this point. An HD/Buell mechanic should be able to diagnose the noise and identify if that's the problem without tearing anything apart. If YOU have to diagnose it I think the location of the noise would make it pretty obvious if this is likely to be the problem. Good luck! |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 11:56 am: |
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Thanks so much for your help. I'm going to first check my primary chain. If it is okay, I'll try to ride the 1100 miles from Prince Rupert to Spokane, Washington. I'll call the dealer there after I check the primary chain tension. I'll keep you posted. Mark |
Glenn
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 12:14 pm: |
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Hi Mark, Adjusting the primary is a good idea and won't take you very long to do. I would also get a stick, hold in your fist up against your ear. Put the other end of the stick on the motor and move it around when it is running. This acts like a stethoscope and it is amazing what you can hear. This might help you locate the problem. Glenn |
Etennuly
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 12:16 pm: |
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Hugh is probably right about the primary chain or the crank nut being the noise. I just wanted to add that the mount when bad doesn't seem to make any different noises, even when shutting it off. Its symptom is unruly vibration that you would feel from the base of your spine to the foot pegs and handle bars. Pretty much wherever you are in contact with the bike. |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 12:16 pm: |
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Thanks Glenn, I'll try that too. I'm going out to check the chain now. Mark |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 12:24 pm: |
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Man, I'm glad somebody else chimed in on this. I was sitting here thinking I'm advising this poor guy half-way around the world, 1000 miles from the closest dealer, and I may be completely wrong. Nice to have a couple of concurring opinions! |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 12:50 pm: |
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Primary chain is okay, 3/8 to 1/2 inch cold. I started the bike, noise is on primary side, not real consistent. I believe it is the crank sprocket. I'm going to call the dealer in Spokane to see what they say about it, if I can ride to there, and if they can fix it quickly. My other option is Prince George, it's about 400 miles from my ferry drop off point. Thanks again for the help. I'll update again. Mark |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 12:55 pm: |
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Mark- It'd be fairly easy to do in a parking lot if you have a few tools. Those primary gaskets are reusable at least once. Hardest part of the job is getting required torque on the nut. If the nut comes off completely, you could have a pretty catastrophic failure. |
Prior
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 01:12 pm: |
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Mark, You should be able to fix the crank nut with some pretty basic tools if you are able to find a shop to borrow. As stated above; you'll need to drain the primary fluid, let the slack out of the primary chain, remove the shifter assembly and primary cover (be careful not to damage the gasket!) and install, locktite and torque the nut. You'll need something to wedge between the crank sprocket and clutch sprocket to keep the engine from turning when you torque the fastener. Reassembly everything and put a quart of engine oil in the primary chain case until you can get to a dealer and get primary fluid. You should be able to do the repair at almost any shop- there are no special tools needed other than a torque wrench and something to lock the sprockets. The nut that is probably causing your problem is to the left side on this picture I highjacked from another thread. This shows how to lock the sprockets so you can torque the nut.
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Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 01:37 pm: |
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Thanks for the list of steps required. I just spent about half an hour on the phone with 4 dealerships. The Fairbanks and Prince George guys were very helpful. They both said it should be checked now, but it shouldn't be an issue to make it the 446 miles to Prince George. My boat arrives at 4:00 A.M. in Prince Rupert, so I should be able to make it in 8 hours. They'll be waiting for me. Thanks, Mark |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:25 pm: |
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Keep us posted on how things are going..... Best of luck!! |
Marks3tbillet
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:30 pm: |
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Another update: I'm getting ready to get on the ferry boat now. I believe I have a bad rear wheel bearing, it's clicking too. I'm wondering if the noise could be coming from there when the bike is idling. Can the engine vibration be enough to cause the bearing to click? I'm not sure I can make it to Prince George, I've been praying a lot. Thanks for all the good wishes. I'll try to post from Prince George when I make it. Mark |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Monday, June 08, 2009 - 09:44 pm: |
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If the wheel bearing was really bad it might allow enough wheel movement to occur to produce the noise since the bike shakes a lot at idle. If the bearings are that bad though, you should be able to move the wheel side-to-side with the bike stationary. If either bearing that bad, you need to stay where you are and find somewhere to get them replaced. The rear wheel bearings are pretty common if you're not near a Buell dealer. Here's the bearing number and a list of bunch of ATV's that use the same bearing that I found a while back: 6006-2RS - 30 x 55 x 13 ATV Wheel Bearing This Part Fits: Honda ATC70 Suzuki LT-4WD QuadRunner LT-A400 Eiger 2x4 Auto LT-A400 Eiger Auto LT-A400F Eiger 4x4 Auto LT-A500F QuadMaster 4x4 LT-A500F QuadRunner 4x4 LT-A500F Vinson 4x4 LT-F250 QuadRunner LT-F250F QuadRunner 4x4 LT-F300F KingQuad 4x4 LT-F400 Eiger 2x4 Manual LT-F400 Eiger Manual LT-F400F Eiger 4x4 Manual LT-F4WDX KingQuad LT-F4WDX QuadRunner LT-F500F QuadRunner 4x4 Yamaha YFB250 Timberwolf 4x4 YFM100 Champ YFM350 Big Bear YFM350 Big Bear 2x4 YFM350 Big Bear 4x4 YFM350 Big Bear SE YFM350 Wolverine 4x4 YFM350ER YFM400 Big Bear YFM400 Big Bear 400 YFM400 Big Bear 4x4 YFM400 Kodiak YFM400 Kodiak 2x4 YFM400 Kodiak 4x4 YFM400 Kodiak Bear YFM400 Kodiak Bear 4x4 YFM450 Kodiak 4x4 YFM600 Grizzly YFM600 Grizzly 4x4 YFM660 Grizzly 4x4 YFM80 Badger Hang in there, man. You'll get through it. THIS part is the adventure! |