| Author | Message | ||
     Ulyscol |
My clutch had started to feel a little out of adjustment (won't grab until the very end of the lever stroke) so I did the adjustment by the book. I have done this before at my 5k service and it solved the same issue. Now it seems as if the clutch will only grab at the very last possible moment of lever travel no matter what I do. Is it time to check the clutch stack or am I missing something here? | ||
| Rwven |
Have you adjusted the cable slack also? I don't recall the order but you should adjust one first then the other. | ||
| Ulyscol |
Yep, everything by the book. | ||
| Acav80 |
I recently have been going through clutch issues. Your situation may be unrelated, but maybe you can use this info... About a month ago I started to feel that my clutch was doing the same thing you're talking about. No matter how I adjusted, it would always grab at the LAST POSSIBLE second when the lever was out fully. This was made worse one day when I was practicing in a parking lot and I started messing around with fast starts, didn't realize I was abusing the clutch so much until it sortof slipped and I couldn't get any more grab. I stopped, took off the inspection cover, smelled the clutch burn smell, readjusted the clutch and it was back to normal except the engagement was even closer to the end of my lever release. Fast forward 2 weeks. I had a little mishap up in the mountains and ended up riding my Uly into a ditch. Bike was ok, I was ok, but while trying to hog th bike up out of the ditch I burned up my clutch...entirely. Had to get a BWB member from the BRAN list to come pick up the bike...the clutch was toast. When I took apart the clutch to install a new clutch kit, the pads were slick as ice. Completely glazed over, not worn out. I was pretty amazed. Then I read in my new clutch kit a line saying "we do not recommend the use of any synthetic lubricants." Hmmm...I was puzzled and started investigating lubes for wet clutches. I had read some people on BWB saying they use Mobil 1 synthetic 15W50 motor oil (regular auto oil) in the motor and primary both, so that's what I started doing about 6,000 miles back (it's the cheapest and I'm a tightwad). In my research I learned a bit too late that many motor oils have friction modifiers and anit-wear compounds in them (including this Mobil 1) which are bad for wet clutches. So basically, all it took was 6,000 miles plus 2 clutch-overheat experiences for this oil to stick to my clutch plates and glaze them over entirely. My fault, obviously. I was under-informed about the oil I chose. HD Formula+ from now on for me. That's been my experience. Not to say that's what you have going on, but my clutch behaved the way you describe before it went out. Hopefully yours is less of a problem. Acav | ||
| Osup |
That is very good information Acav80. I've been debating going with a synthetic for my primary. Now I think I'll stick with the HD stuff. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
If you have adjusted the clutch lifter and the cable adjuster by the book (you did slacken the cable greatly before adjusting the hub lifter?), there will be very little freeplay in the system and the clutch will indeed engage near the end of the lever travel. Leave the clutch lifter adjusted as normal, between 1/4 and 1/2 turn out. Adjust the cable adjuster to allow about 1/8 inch of freeplay at the gap between the lever and perch. You will probably like this better. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Synthetic oil is fine in the primary and transmission, so long as the oil is approved for wet-clutch systems. Valvoline, Amsoil, H-D, and Mobil 1 all make synthetic oil compounded to be safe with a wet clutch. Yes, the motorcycle specific stuff does cost more. Mark in Arizona | ||
| Nobuell |
I am running Mobil V Twin and have had no problems. | ||
| Ulyscol |
Thanks for all the advice. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
Most 5/10W40 and 15/20W50 weight oils do not have the friction modifiers that can cause problems with the clutch. Rule of thumb is that if it is labeled as "energy conserving" don't put it anywhere near your clutch. | ||
| Idaho_buelly |
Why couldn't you run the cheaper Mobil 1 Automotive oil in the crankcase & the expensive motorcycle syn. in the primary/transmission..2.5qts-engine & 1qt-Primary??...Just wondering?..I run the Syn 3 in both, but loved the amsoil for the trans. in my other bikes,noticeable difference  | ||
| Thesmaz |
I was having the same issue trying to get my stock clutch adjusted properly and figured that it was on the way out. I had been using the HD formula + the entire time. I installed a new aftermarket clutch and put royal purple 20w50 vtwin oil in the primary (I had it on hand and the dealer was closed) and I haven't had any issues in the last 2K miles. The lever still engages near the end of it's travel and I've adjusted the clutch and cable by the book several times. I am getting used to it but it is a bit difficult in stop and go traffic. | ||
| Acav80 |
I'm still using the Mobil 1 15W50 in my crankcase. I like the oil for that, but it's no good for wet clutch. Another interesting thing about the info from my clutch kit is that when I talked to the clutch company guy on the phone, he said that disclaimer about synthetic lubes was really only aimed at Syn3, but they couldn't say that specifically or HD would come after them. I have no idea why not Syn3. I know lots of people use it without any trouble. Anyway, no need to thread-jack and turn this into oil thread #5,961...any luck with your adjustment Ulyscol? | ||
| Ulyscol |
Guys, Regardless of what type of oil used all I know is I used to have a friction zone. Now the clutch is either on or off, no in between. I am going out riding now and I am going to try one more adjustment at the suggestion of Mark_weiss. I will post the results. | ||
| Ulyscol |
Adjusted the free play in the cable to .180" rode all day. I am pleased to announce I once again have a friction zone. Thanks Mark. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Why couldn't you run the cheaper Mobil 1 Automotive oil in the crankcase Because on these motors, the oil is the oiling/lubrication system *and* the cooling system. IF (and I emphasize the word *IF*) you decide that you have to use automotive oils in the engine for some reason, I believe the manual recommends oil formulated for diesel engines, due to their higher temp ratings / better breakdown resistance. | ||
| Dpb |
I also was "losing" the clutch adjustment on one of my tubers. Ended up being a bad throw out bearing. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Mobil 1 auto oil is also rated for automotive CI engine use according to Mobil bottle (diesel). Diesels actually run cooler temps than gasoline, not hotter, with respect to exhaust temps. Coolant and oil temps tend to be about the same. Diesel rated oil typically gets you a more intensive additive package for soot dispersion, and consideration for geartrain use (since most heavy duty diesels use a front geartrain for driving accessories and cams, rather than belts or chains). Thats why some chose to use Delvac or Rotella, which also come w/o the friction modifiers IIRC. | ||
| Nose2wind |
I have a new 09 with 6000 miles. The tranny oil has not been changed since new. When the bike is in gear, clutch in you can not move the bike. You have to put the bike in neutral to move. This improves as the bike is started and warmed up. The clutch is also very grabby or abrupt at release. I have tried adjusting once. Is this a common trait or is their a remedy? Thanks Birddawg |
