| Author |
Message |
    
Gamdh
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 18, 2008 - 09:50 pm: | 
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Working on it... no working camera right now.. have to borrow one. |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 04:22 pm: |
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Funny, the new rear bearings are actually cheaper than the originals.
Parts numbers for the new bearings please? And how much cheaper?
Called my local dealer the other day, told the parts guy I was looking for the new ones but all I had was my 2006 parts guide numbers and that they should be superseded.
He pulled up the numbers and told me "Yeah they show superseded, and I have them in stock."  I asked for him to check, then asked what color the seals were. "Red" was his reply.
I told him red was the old bearing, new was black. He told me no the red must be the new bearing because it said "superseded" on his screen, next to my 2006 part number remember... 
So goes the saga of Dealer Ignorance.  |
Gamdh
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 06:40 pm: |
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This is what I ordered. I specifically asked for these.. I didn't let them decide what I needed =)
Rear: E0005.02A8B
Front: E0004.02A8B |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 07:32 pm: |
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Thanks Gamdh!
Geez, they're about 1/3 the cost of the NTN's!!!
THAT defies all logic when it comes to "New and Improved"! |
Gamdh
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 08:06 pm: |
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Forgot..the price per pair
Rear : $30.14
Front : $24.32
(includes the 20% discount from the Appleton sale )
IIRC.. the original rear's are about 30 each
(Message edited by gamdh on November 19, 2008) |
Gamdh
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 10:01 pm: |
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Hughlysses
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 11:08 pm: |
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Michael- Thanks! We finally have photographic proof that there IS an updated wheel bearing! |
Froggy
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 19, 2008 - 11:42 pm: |
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Oh you wanted photos? I could of posted some on 09s, lol |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Thursday, November 20, 2008 - 11:29 pm: |
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I hope Buell is right about this new bearing. The machining on the races appears a bit ragged to me. I looked at a Korean Fafnir 6006-2RS the other day at an auto supply and it seemed cleaner than that, but the seals didn't appear to be full contact.
Looked at an Argentina SKF 6005-2RS yesterday and it was beautiful. NAPA by the way sells the SKF 6005-6006 but they aren't cheap, $35 and $40. But I'd pay that to get them same day rather than the same price for the red NTN from a HD dealer.
I wish someone with an inside channel to BMC could get a definitive answer as to what is improved on the very-less-expensive Black bearing over the NTN. |
Gamdh
| | Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2008 - 05:22 pm: |
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This is what my old bearings looked like At 36,037 miles....
 |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2008 - 10:39 pm: |
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Gamdh how'd you get them out? And how are you installing the new ones? |
Gamdh
| | Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 09:03 am: |
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I used the blind hole bearing puller from Harbor freight that someone(?) found and put a link in one of the bearing threads.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95987
I pulled the first one out with that and then I used a big socket and extension to tap the other side out. (Also posted in one of the bearing threads)
To put them back in... I placed the old bearing on top of the new one and slowly tapped them in working around the outer race.
I really wanted to use this to get them out...
Pitt Posse Wheel Bearing Remover Set
http://pitposse.stores.yahoo.net/whbereset.html
But the set does not have a 30mm collet yet... they said they would have one available in 4-5wks.
Based on my experiance yesterday...It is much easier to drive it out from the back side than pull it out with the slide hammer puller. It took a little while and some patience but it does come out. I would use the slide hammer a few times and I would to stop and tighten the collet...
(Message edited by gamdh on November 24, 2008) |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 11:28 am: |
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I remember that now, thanks! |
Xbimmer
| | Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 11:59 am: |
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Would this one maybe work?
http://pitposse.stores.yahoo.net/whbereto.html
The 30mm inside of the rear bearing race works out to 1.18" I believe, so it may not be suitable. Also, as I was reading the review on the tool I noticed that the remover projects pretty deeply past the bearing. I wonder how that would work with our spacers...
Looks like a good tool though. |
Gamdh
| | Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 12:26 pm: |
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Saw that one too.
FWIW: I decided against that one as I discussed using a 1" with our 30MM ID bearings with JIMs (http://www.jimsusa.com/) tools as they have a very nice (and expensive > $200) bearing remover set .. they recommended against the 1" in our 30MM (1.18 in), doesn't seem like a lot but apparently it makes a difference. So I figured the same logic would apply to this tool?
Might be a good idea to ask Pit Posse what they think???
Pit Posse also has two other bearing puller sets.. that 'might' work. The guy there said they don't work some wheels but I didn't push for any details. (they are also > $100) |
Cycletlh
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 26, 2008 - 10:12 am: |
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Mine went at 14k. Tire change was just a couple hundred miles prior. Bearings "felt" fine at time of tire change.
When they go, the go fast. Stopped asap when I felt the vibration @60 mph. Could not detect the problem. Rode another 3 miles @45 mph to next turnoff. Able to detect problem. Rode another 1.5 miles to location where help could get us and easy to see problem. There was damage to the center spacer at this point. If ridden any further more damage would have occured.
My opinion: Had the seals been pulled when the tire was changed I think there would have been evidence. The axle is tapered in the middle. On one end, the large part goes past the sleeve and into the bearing. I suspect that during installation the sleeve gets cocked between the bearings (especially if the bearings have a little wear to them) increasing/changing the side load on the bearing. While the manufacturer does not recommend completely packing the bearing I think we are less likely to see failure in our application if they are fully packed. |
