Author |
Message |
Panhead_dan
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 10:28 am: |
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If this has been discussed previously, sorry. So, I'm on my way to visit sis in Portland and I stop for a smoke at The Bridge of the Gods, flip out my stand and notice, once again, it's loose. Upon inspection I see the front mounting bolt is gone and the rear is loose. I tighten the rear up and ride on in to sis' house. A closer inspection reveals the front bolt is snapped off flush. Here is the fix; One stick of 5/16 X 18 all thread rod $1.25. Two fiberlock nuts $.11 ea. I cut the rod so that it screws in till it is bottomed out, leaving enough threads for the kickstand mounting plate and the new nut. Slathered the studs copiously with stud and bearing locktite and screw it all together. Now the muffler no longer has to be removed to service the kickstand and it should never need servicing again. |
Teeps
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 10:56 am: |
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Yes Dan, this was a problem for many Uly owners before the recall upgrade, and it was discussed almost to death. However, aside from your choice of repair material. Your idea of stud application is a good one... one I ask myself, why didn't I think of that. I suggest replacing the "All Thread" with grade 8 studs, washers and nuts and you will have it all. (Message edited by teeps on August 24, 2008) |
Panhead_dan
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 11:04 am: |
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I thought of that too but none were available out here in the stix. If I ever have an issue with it again I will use grade 8 bolts and just cut the heads off and down to the right length. |
Teeps
| Posted on Sunday, August 24, 2008 - 11:09 am: |
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Here's a link to the original(?) failure thread. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/209756.html?1151612435 Here's the link to the thread in which I put up my parts list for a temporaray repair. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/287535.html (Message edited by teeps on August 24, 2008) |
Treadmarks
| Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2008 - 12:10 am: |
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ARP makes a set of grade 8 chrome molly carb studs that should work great. Check summit racing. They are coarse threads to fit the engine case, and fine threads to hold the k/s bracket tight. |
Teeps
| Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2008 - 11:26 am: |
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From the looks of it the part of the stud that screws into the engine case is not long enough. Summit Racing online catalog; http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+ 400295+300097+4294892117+115+4294863169&autoview=s ku |
Treadmarks
| Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2008 - 03:32 pm: |
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Thats fine, coarse threads don't need as much with locktight. You have a selection of 1.7", 2.7" and 3.7". How far do you want to go? |
Teeps
| Posted on Saturday, August 30, 2008 - 06:17 pm: |
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Considering the threaded hole is cast aluminum, I would want as much thread engagement as is available. Or, at least one inch, as is the stock bolt. |
Treadmarks
| Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2008 - 12:38 pm: |
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Or try these 170,000 psi header bolts. |
Panhead_dan
| Posted on Sunday, August 31, 2008 - 12:48 pm: |
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In my opinion, when engineering something that gets stressed, it is important to design in the weak link. In other words, if I were to use super strong studs of some kind, where does that transfer the weak link to? I would much prefer to extract a broken stud rather than repair an engine case with a chunk broke off of it. One question keeps coming up in my mind; why does the factory use bolts that can't be removed without removing the muffler? Just rambling thoughts.... All thread still holding up fine during daily use. |
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