| Author | Message | ||
     Sekalilgai |
Tipsy yarwelcum ...I'm waiting for my replacement to arrive. Maybe I should take some before/after pics eh? Ken | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
So you have to replace the whole cast Aluminum thing along with the rubber? | ||
| Strada |
LG, I spotted it!!! When my mount was on it's way out I had to wait 2 weeks to get it booked in for warranty so I made a rubber washer from 4mm Rubber (with a split in it to fit in the gap) - it rests on the large metal flange so provided some badly needed isolation and restricted movement. It made a big reduction to the vibration. I've now put it back on with the new mount because I reckon it will happen again but should last longer. I'm going to get a load made up! (Message edited by Strada on June 17, 2008) | ||
| Etennuly |
So you have to replace the whole cast Aluminum thing along with the rubber? Yes. The rubber is vulcanized into the aluminum mount. If it can come out, that's bad. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Oh. The tubers' front rubber dinguses were different: Steel plate on the outside and metal tube in the inside. Remove aluminum bracket from head = bad. I guess that the new frames don't use the engines as a load bearing member? | ||
| 12x9sl |
Mine is just like Werner's-doesn't appear to have cracks, but does have two silver marks. How labor intensive is it to change this thing? | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
one thing anyone doing it them self to look out for, when i removed the bolt it was heavly coroded and galled, there is an insert in the frame and you may want to order this along with the isolator kit, i coated my replacment bolt with a coat of anti-seize before reinstallling. been like this for almost 20k but then again i may have over torqued it a little bit. just my 2 cents, Bob | ||
| Conchop |
Mine seems to be resting on the frame when the motor is switched off. Can't get a feeler gauge through it. I took it to HD of WV to see if they will warrant it. They are supposed to call Buell. More later. | ||
| Etennuly |
Well mine came in yesterday and I picked it up today!  I didn't even have time to open the box yet, I hope it is the right part. | ||
| Sekalilgai |
vern planning on picking mine up in the morning ...ya let's hope it's right eh? I'm going over to the GF's place, think all I need is some hex sockets and locktite? Ken | ||
| Etennuly |
I finally got the chance to install that new isolator. My head light ground wire broke off at the steering head and since I had to work on the bike anyway I figured I might do a couple of things. The ground wire was routed incorrectly. I don't know how it lasted 27,600 miles with the throttle cables sliding through them every time the bars turned. While I had the headlights out I decided it was time to wire the headlamps to run both on high beam.  I have been doing the switch in the middle thing, but I think that will eventually lead to a switch failure. Then came the isolator. Piece of cake. I could have done it in five minutes if I had done one before.  I did however have the advantage of this being the third replacement, so the bolts were not corroded in place. There are two rubber "wings" through which the center mount bolt goes. These wings appear to have a crack where they are visible between the bolt head and the mount housing. After removing it, that crack is visible all of the way through to the other side. A little anti-sieze on the center bolt, and thread locker on the cylinder bolts, a torque wrench, and reinstall the clutch cable retainer and she is ready to go. Just rode it out of the shop and it is like a new bike again! So much smoother, I may not wait as long to replace it next time. I'm sure it will need it again someday until they make a tougher one  . That new part number and calling it a kit must have been done to include the center bolt. The casting numbers were all the same. Only change was the production date. | ||
| Sekalilgai |
vern Same finding here only diff being the production date. But my 'while I'm in here' has me with the muffler half out (need more SAE tools ...been working on too many japanese machines) in order to get the new sidestand in. Too late for a tool run tonight...she hangs midair tonight. | ||
| Jlnance |
ok, I decided to put the new isolator on tonight. It looked like an easy job. (ha) I got all the bolts broken loose easily enough, but the isolator bolt is stuck to the rubber isolator. So as I turn the rubber starts pushing back. Since I'm between the fork and the frame, I can only turn the socket about 1/4 of a turn, and thats not enough to break the bolt loose (I have to push with my foot to get it to turn that much.) Anyone else encounter this and find a solution? | ||
| Etennuly |
Sounds like the bolt is seized to the metal sleeve in the center of the rubber. Have you tried a penetrating oil? Maybe beat on the center sleeve with an air chisel? 1/2" impact wrench? I think mine would have been tough if it had been the original one. It had about a half inch of the white crusty corrosion on the top part of it. New one has never-sieze on it! | ||
| Jlnance |
New one has never-sieze on it! Well now we know why.  It also occurred to me that the loctight from the threads might have gotten in there. No, I haven't tried anything except twisting. There isn't a lot of room to work. | ||
| Jlnance |
Sportymark came over.   Getting it out involved him twisting it with a ratchet, then me holding the allen bit with a pair of channel locks, while he moved the ratchet back for another twist. This is the best part:  Now to you that might look like the chewed up spacer from a Uly wheel with shot bearings. But it actuality it's an cool ratchet handle extension. The bike is back together. Testride soon. | ||
| Etennuly |
I should have said "new one has never-sieze on it because I don't want to let it corrode into that mount bushing sleeve". Maybe some long extensions will allow your ratchet more swing room. | ||
| Jlnance |
WOW I just got back from the testride. Of course I needed to go about 50 miles just to be sure. It's like a new bike. I mean that literally. I rode a new Uly at the VIR Inside Pass track day. I noticed that it was so much smoother than mine. I replaced the isolator to see if that was the difference. The isolator I took off does not have any visible problems, but the new one sure does work better. Here is my suggestion to everyone. If you feel ANY vibration in the bars at speed, you need a new isolator. At 4000 rpm, if I get on the throttle, I can feel the pistons in my foot pegs, but NOTHING in the bars. Same at 3000 rpm. Now I remember why I bought this bike.  | ||
| Fastmag |
Mine got mine replaced today, the bike is a lot smoother. My new one (rubber part) is a little different shape than the old one, but was not able to compare side by side. On idle and just above idle my bike had a funny little whistler going on. It was coming from the isolator. New one that is gone. The new isolator does have a small slice in the rubber that is top and bottom. Looks similar to the crack. But the rubber is back to being stiff again. Tech said that my old one wasn't bad, he was more concerned with the wobble from my Dunlop 616's. Said he need to adjust my head bearing. I let him know that was why new Uly's no longer come with 616's.  I am glad I got it replaced. 20,000 miles with lots of dirt. While at Latus I was able to see Buells entry into the Pikes Peak race bike. Latus sponsored. They are using a XB12TT for a base with some sweet Maxxis flat tracker tires on it. Custom rear shock. It will be the bike #3 for the race. | ||
| Harleywern |
Here is a picture of mine. Is this good or bad? Happy 4th of July to all the folks across the big ocean  | ||
| Fastmag |
Harleywern, that may or may not be bad, after seeing my new one with a similar slice and all of the 2008's on the floor with similar, the best way to tell is are you getting more vibes in the bars and foot pegs than you did when it was new. I was and a new one fixed that.  This is my brand new one. So it is all in the vibes. If your bike vibrates real bad, change it, if it does not, don't. | ||
| Harleywern |
Thanks, Fastmag I will take her to the dealer (if I find a decent one) and have it replaced. Ride safe Werner | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
What kind of vibes? High freq or just shakey? I replaced mine after noticing high freq vibes and it did not cure the problem. Still looking for the issue. I know my muffler actuator is bad, so I turned it off with ECMSpy. I still have to go for a test ride. As far as having a dealer replace the isolator, I would try it yourself. If you can tie your shoes, and have a torque wrench, it's no problem. | ||
| Jlnance |
If you can tie your shoes, and have a torque wrench, it's no problem. Assuming nothing is sized I did it myself, and it was pretty easy. You need a jack and a hex socket that will fit the isolator. Its the same size as the large hex wrench in your toolkit, so you can take that to the auto parts store if you need to buy one. The only tricky part I found was the service manual says to attach the isolator to the engine before tightening the isolator bolt itself. It will never go together if you do that. You have to start all 3 bolts very loosely, and then tighten it up. | ||
| Fastmag |
Mine was kinda shakey. Also my front isolator was making a noise at and just off idle. I do have a weird vibe still that seems to be some sort of harmonic at certain higher rpms. Primary chain is adjusted properly. It is just kind of there. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
Well, The actuator wasn't the problem. Vibes still there. Maybe I'll try to ignore it more. I'm out of ideas. There's nothing loose as far as I can tell. | ||
| Froggy |
I think i broke mine last night, I was riding home, i stopped for gas, then after that it starts getting a nasty vibration over 3500. At 4000 and higher, it feels like the bike is going to explode. Is this the isolator doing this or is it something else like the primary? If i squeeze the clutch and rev it, it does the same thing. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
Is it a high freq vibe or like something is loose? | ||
| Etennuly |
The best way I can think of to describe the vibrations caused by a bad isolator is this; When your engine is idling, you feel that it is running. You can see that it is vibrating and shaking about within the mounts. Rev it up and it smooths out. The whole time the frame, seat, and bars are receiving that vibration/shaking through the isolators, which in turn absorb most of it and smooth out the vibrations that do get through so that they are of a wider band and not of a harsh or metallic feel. Under load you can feel the engine pulling, maybe even feel the pulses of it, but they are muffled. When the isolator is bad it changes, sometimes slowly enough that you know something is changing but you cannot tell exactly what it is. The pulsing, shaking, vibrating becomes a little more noticeable, the bars seem to be not as friendly to hang on to for hours, your feet notice some vibrations getting through to make them tingle a bit more than normal, and the seat becomes less of a friend on a tank full non stop ride. If you let it go on longer the engine feels like you are sitting directly on it. When it idles you shake and vibrate feeling it everywhere you contact the bike. When the rpm's come up while riding it, the vibrations will be harsh and feel like they are directly injected into your bones. The big issue is that the change from new isolator to one that is used up, usually happens gradually over time. It seems that it kind of grows on you and makes riding a little less enjoyable, but without knowing why. I found for me and my feeble elder body, it is fatigue brought on by the vibrations getting to my feet, hands, and spine that make me inspect it closely. | ||
| Froggy |
Yep pretty sure mine is shot Vibrations are very harsh. Bike is still smooth at 3k, but not as smooth as it was a few days ago. Here is a pic of mine, looks like i got a crack in it.  |
