| Author | Message | ||
     Maximum |
One week prior to leaving for homecoming...it could be bad timing or good timing...here's the story: Background: Back in late February I was about three blocks from work when the bike died on me. I pulled over recycled the switch and was able to start the bike, but it would not stay running unless I kept revving the engine to around 6,000 rpms...and even at that the engine was surging pretty bad. I was able to limp the bike to my work parking lot and called the dealer to come pickup the bike. During the next couple hours I went outside to try starting it again, and when I turned the ignition switch on I noticed that the fuel pump was not cycling normally...it sounded like it was running a slower, slightly varying speed. After several different times of doing this (maybe six times over a two hour period) it started sounding more normal, and would start and idle. Well, finally the truck arrived and took the bike to the dealer. The next day the dealer called me and could not find any problem. I went and picked it up, being charged an hour of labor since there was "no problem". Forward to today: On my ride home from work today (almost four months and 3,000 miles later) the exact same thing happened! This time about 2 miles from home. I was still able to limp the home by revving it up to 6,000 rpms, and coasting for a while, the engine dying, then doing it again. I am pretty certain that it is a fuel pump issue, but I don't want to have it towed to the dealer again, just for them to find no problem. I looked for trouble codes with ECMSpy, and it found nothing wrong. I did the test on the fuel pump and it was making that slow straining sound like last time. If the pump is bad, who is going to have a new one in stock? I am so accustomed to the dealers never having the parts in stock that I need (except for when I was in Dothan, Alabama and needed a stator and VR). Anyone else ever have these exact symptoms? If so, what was it? If the problem is gone in the morning, will the dealer fix an intermittent problem that they cannot diagnose? Will it last another 3,000 miles without reappearing its' ugly head? My round trip to homecoming will be about 2,500 miles. I don't want to panic here...but did I mention that I am leaving in one week!  | ||
| Maximum |
Update...one hour after returning home the fuel pump is sounding normal again, and it is idling OK (although seems a tad rough). | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
Bummer...hope you get is squared away. My trip to Homecoming is also seeming less and less likely as my left footpeg bracket has not yet arrived. Tipsy | ||
| Jlnance |
Maximum - The Uly fuel pumps have trouble with chaffed wires. It one wire chafes, the pump runs all the time, if the other wire chafes, fuses blow. Sounds like you may have the run-all-the-time chafe. Does the pump run when you are having problems? A new pump is $360. My dealer was able to just fix the chaffed wires though. Since you're going to homecoming, you'll be in the midst of several excellent dealers. You might want to set up an appointment to have them look at it. Also, if you're inclined, pull the fuel pump and look at the wires. The chafing is obvious. I've never pulled the pump myself, but it isn't a horrendous procedure from what I understand. You do have to take off the swing arm, but thats not supposed to be hard. | ||
| Lduly |
To remove the fuel pump you just need to remove the lower shock bolt. This lets the swing arm move down enough to let the pump clear. Put some lube on the both the o rings and be careful when reinstalling the pump, the o rings will leak if not seated properly. Don't ask  Pretty simple job. | ||
| 08uly |
Maximum, My fuel pump was recently replaced due to some faulty wiring in the fuel pump connector/harness. I did not have your symptoms but pull the connector and check for any burning (you can't miss the smell). The connector is right behind the left footpeg bracket above the pump. It was the ground wire in mine that was overheating due to poor contact in the connector. You might want to order the pump from a dealer at or near your destination. This way you'll have it in stock should the need arise. --- 08Uly Uly Data Page Leader Boards  | ||
| Metalstorm |
I removed my swingarm when I pulled my pump. It doesn't take but 20 minutes to remove it and gives you lots of room to work and room for a bucket or suitable container for draining the gas into. The most important thing to remember is to unplug the pump from the harness and then starting and running the bike until it dies to relieve pressure from fuel line. If you pull your pump, whether you find anything wrong with the pump or not, I recommend taking a file and sandpaper to the areas where the wires sit. Get rid of the sharp edges. Make them smooth and you'll hopefully avoid future chaffing problem. | ||
| Maximum |
Saturday I went for about a 100 mile ride...and no fuel pump problems at all. Sunday I went for a ride...and 25 miles into the ride the bike started to die on me again. I was able to limp it home by revving to 6000 rpm and working the clutch, then coasting in neutral for a while. Have way home the problem went away again. So I decided to take the fuel pump out and look for electrical problems. A couple hours later...I think that I found the problem. The connector in the picture below was not fully seated. As I was touching all the wires, that one came apart. I put it back together and once it was fully seated, it clicked into place...which would not come back apart without some real effort.  Now I need some fresh O-rings for the fuel pump, as they were very stretched out. So on Monday begins the game of trying to find a local dealer that has these O-rings in stock! I'm leaving on Friday for Homecoming, so a week to 10 days to order the parts is not going to cut it! While I was had the pump out I decided to look for the chaffing that people have talked about. Sure enough...there it is!  So I just used a couple very small cable ties to provide a buffer between the cables and the aluminum bracket that holds the cables.  Hopefully this takes care of my current (and possible future) problems with the fuel pump. I guess I'll find out within the next couple weeks! | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
Hope you can find those O-rings in time Maximum. Slightly related topic but stupid question nonetheless...is there any detriment to switching the kill switch to "run," which primes the fuel pump, and then not starting the bike for several minutes? I only ask because I'm installing running lights (internal to the turn signal housings) and I plan to power the running lights through the factory accessory jack leads since I've rewired the jacks directly to the Centech. This way, the jacks are hot all the time. On the '08's, the accessory jacks are only powered when the kill switch is set to run. I realize I can tap another source for the running lights, but this is the simplest solution for the moment. Tipsy | ||
| F_skinner |
Maximum, Colorado Springs and Pikes Peak does not have them in stock. They gave me a part number T0121.02A8 If your dealers up North does not have it you might want to try Santa Fe HD and see if they will overnight it... Frank Frank | ||
| Darthane |
I doubt it, Tipsy. The fuel pump is just priming to ensure there is enough pressure to meet the fuel demands when the bike is started. If anything, I would think that the pressure might bleed out slowly and might cause it to take a little longer than normal to get it going when you finally deigned to hit that yellow switch. | ||
| Lduly |
Appleton had the o rings when I needed them last year, 2 days before going on a trip to Alaska. They overnighted them to me. It made for really expensive o rings but, what are ya gonna do. | ||
| Maximum |
Good news...Sun Buell had them in stock! I just finished installing the pump, and things are working right now, but we shall see over time. I am a little less confident in that connector fixing all of my fuel pump issues after looking a little closer in the service manual. The connector that was loose was the fuel low sensor. I really doubt that a bad connection in the fuel low sensor would cause the fuel pump to stop running correctly. I used a little dielectric grease in the external connector, just for a little extra precaution, but like I said before...time will tell! My trip to homecoming may be more of an adventure that I had originally planned.  | ||
| Jcbikes |
Steve, If the problem occurs between now and you leaving on Friday, I have a spare, slightly used, fuel pump from a 2004 XB12S that I think should work. Let me know if I can help you out if you need it. JC | ||
| Maximum |
Thanks John...I will keep that in mind. I'm getting different tires mounted in the morning, so I probably won't have a change to really test the bike until Wednesday. | ||
| Jcbikes |
Keep me posted if you need it. Hope all goes well and that you have a fun, safe, and trouble free ride to HC. Take lots of pictures to post here, for us that cannot make it. JC | ||
| Adrian_8 |
I was one of the first to report on the chaffed wires on the fuel pump as it left me stranded 2500 miles from home. I said there should have been a recall but the ball was dropped or shoved under the rug...as people get more mileage on their bikes this problems will raise its ugly head, mine went at about 32K. The wires chafe where they are held in place under the metal clip. Master Card...don't leave home without it.... | ||
| Metalstorm |
First wire chaffed on mine at around 12K. That's when it started running continuously. Second wire went at around 20K. That's when the ign fuse started popping at the simple turn of the key. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Three of my wires were bare causing the fuse to blow. There was no prior warning, I was riding along slowly and the bike just quit. The dealer in Hurricane, Utah pulled a pump from a demo and shrink wrapped the wires and got me on the road after a 140 mile tow bill. I believe the pumps on the 07s have a different number...what that means I do not know..I do know before taking a trip I would pull the pump and fix the situation or carry a spare pump. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Just had my pump replaced before my warranty ran out. Low-fuel light kept triggering regardless of fuel level. They opted to replace the whole pump instead of the thermistor (which was OK with me, since they also told me they had experienced several XB pump problems). Bike ran fine except for that. Pump was replaced with a different part number pump. Not only that but it sounds very different, old one charged up and ran with a high pitched whine, new one sounds more gravelly. Hope the wires are better. If it hadn't been for the expense I would have fixed the sender and wires myself, but that's what warranties are for. | ||
| Maximum |
Well, my concern may have been correct. The connection inside the fuel pump that was not fully seated was the fuel low sensor, so I was not sure if the sensor could cause an intermittent fuel pump. Well, yesterday it acted up again! I was riding around 50 mph when I felt the bike beginning to lose power. I gunned throttle to get the rpm's around 6000 and the bike keep running for about 20 seconds, when I let the rpm's fall below 4000 rpm's I could not bring them back up...so the bike died. I coasted a little then attempted to restart the engine while rolling. It turned over on the second attempt and I immediately took the engine back up towards 6000 rpms. Within the next minute the bike was normal again. Is this an electrical issue? Other than swapping out the fuel pump...I am stumped! I would love to have the problem fixed under warranty, but the symptoms don't hang around long enough to get to the dealership. Now today, on my way to work I had the check engine light come on three times. First I panicked...looking for a place to pull over (a reaction learned from previous Stator, VR, 77 Connector failures). But then I noticed that the Voltage Monitor light was still green, so I knew that I could keep riding. Next I gunned the engine up to 6000 rpms, and each of the three times the check engine light went out. Is this a related problem or something new? I plan to use ECM Spy when I get home to see if it shows any failure codes. They should remain stored in the ECM, right? I am leaving in the morning for Homecoming...so this is making me a little nervous. Anyone have any other ideas? Maybe it is the ECM that is failing, I don't know...but I am getting desperate to know. | ||
| Aeholton |
Yes, the codes should be stored. Let us know what you get. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
It may very well be the fuel pump but don't get fixated on it when it might just be something else. Maybe a bad connection of a plug wire at the coil? Weak ground? A plugged fuel injector? Spark plugs? (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on June 26, 2008) | ||
| Marc |
Very interesting to hear I'm not the only one who has had a Uly fuel pump failure. My 06 Uly has 25K miles and my fuel pump died last Thursday. No warning....the bike completely died and left me stranded on my way home from work. My local HD/Buell mechanic was not impressed with what he saw when he found the loose/chaffed wires on the fuel pump and has recommended that we ask HD/Buell to pay for the replacement fuel pump due to the poor wiring job on the fuel pump. I'll be calling my local service department tomorrow to find out how that discussion went. If it did not go in my favor, I'll be calling Buell Customer Service myself to request that they cover replacement of the part. Still a fun bike I love to ride, but these maintenance issues are frustrating. - Marc | ||
| Slowride |
Maximum.... I had the same issue on my 06 uly here is all you do... Pull the front pulley cover and unconnect all the connectors, then put dielectric grease on all of them and reseat the connectors. Put it back together and go for a ride, I will bet my paycheck on it that it will be cleared up. The check engine light cycling is what mine did while it died or just after. It progressed to a point where the fan would pulsate on and off when I turned the key on and cycled the kill switch. The fuel pump would act like it was failing and then the fan would start to pulsate. Needless to say all of this happened to me on the side of the road this last weekend in MO. I had a fantastic ride home after reseating all of the connectors in that area. I think there are 4 or 5 maybe more. | ||
| Maximum |
OK, Here is the trouble code: Byte 2: 80 Bit 7: Trouble Code 15, intake air sensor shorted to supply voltage or open. Anyone have any ideas of what is needed to fix this? | ||
| Xbimmer |
Maximum, pull the airbox cover and check whether the sensor has come loose from its connector under the baseplate, seems to me that could trip both those symptoms. Man I hope you get this figured out before your big trip, bummer to have in the back of your mind... | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
V-twins have a habit of heating up intake seals and eventually they begin to leak. Your bikes symptoms could indicate an intake leak of some sort. Usually the bike will run fine until it gets really warmed up and then the bike will begin to run like crap. Carry a spray bottle of water that you can fog the intake seal area with a water mist and this should tell you whether you have a bad seal or not. The Omaha Harley shop changes intake seals on Harleys every 10,000 miles. | ||
| Maximum |
Well, today is the day I leave for homecoming...and I still have two potentially unresolved intermittent issues. Since my check engine light was the air intake sensor it appears that is a separate issue from my fuel pump problems. I checked the sensor last night and could not find any visible bad connections or wires, so I put the connector back together with a little dielectric grease...and we will see what happens today. | ||
| Slowride |
Maximum, Good luck on your ride, I left the house with my ills as well last weekend and it took a rainstorm in the middle of no where to tell me what the issue was. Once I pulled that front pulley cover and unplugged and reseated all those connectors the bike ran like a scalded dog!~ Just remember, we are here for ya and can/will run call-in/call ahead service for ya if needed. (Message edited by slowride on June 27, 2008) | ||
| Scooter314 |
I am wondering what the out come of this is? I have an 09 XB12XT and when very hot, the bike will just stall. Starts out like the bike is starting to flood and then will quickly die. This has happened twice and both times were when the bike was at an idle. Found that the fuel pump fuse was blowing, so I carry an extra one. Not a good solution. Last week, it happened for the second time. I pulled the bike over, put in a new fuse and took it to Rocket City HD. They looked it over and the tech called me and said, "We couldn't find anything wrong. Ride it and if it happens again, bring it in." I told him THAT was the wrong answer. I didn't pay this type of money for THAT type of response. Sheeshh...I also told him that I will be taking a trip from Northern Alabama to Centennial, Wyo in the next month and they had better get this fixed before that trip! I can't tell you how happy I am that I found this site. I am now going to call Rocket City and tell them to fix or replace the fuel pump. Oh, the bike has ONLY 3.2k miles on it. Am I going to have problems like this all the time? This is the first Buell I have owned and I love the bike, but so far my local service shop has not impressed me. I am understanding of these issues, but when you tell me, "I don't know how to fix the problem." that concerns me...just a wee bit. |
