| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
As you can see, this is just the original plastic spacered out with a piece of air pump hose I had laying in the tool chest. Probably an inch. I used only the top bolt hole and of course a longer bolt that was found on top of the tool chest. Then we went for a 130 mile ride. The fan never came on after more than hour of cruising at 60 mph but it did come on later when we went out on the interstate and cruised at 70 mph and it stayed on. My oil at the swingarm never got over 197 F and I checked it many times. Actually until I went out on the interstate the temp was staying at 182 F. Was this different than normal? Not really sure. Why didn't I use both front holes? The upper hole stays lined up but not the bottom hole but it does not rattle whatsoever. I've never been convinced that a RSS is something that is of value and I certainly would not be willing to pay 200+ for one. Why'd I do this. The idea came out of the blue so I went out and did it. I'm reporting it here so that maybe others might give it a try and see what happens for them. It's so easy and pretty much free.     | ||
| 911_racer |
WOW. why did I never think of that? good job electraglider. I'm gonna go home tonight and try that. thanks. now go wash your bike! | ||
| Maximum |
That is pretty creative EG. After about four weeks, I believe that my new $300 low profile air scoops are less efficient compared to the stock configuration. It may be my imagination, but it seems like my fan runs more than it did before. I don't have an EG temp dip stick to monitor and find out for sure. In the end I bought the low profile scoops because I thought that they would look cool, and maybe that's all they do for me.  | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Maximum, The big difference in what I've done compared to that work of art of yours is that air is able to go up from below even when not moving. 911_racer, It is pretty filthy isn't it. The plastic under the bottom bolt I didn't use wraps a bit around the black frame tube and it takes a bit of coaxing to pop it free. It won't crack as it is very tough plastic. | ||
| Chas1969 |
E-glider I did the same thing to mine about 4 weeks ago. Another badwebber had the idea and I modded my stock RSS to simular to yours but a little further out (3.5"). The original badwebber stated that even in 90 degree weather his fan never went on. My expeirence is in near 90 degree weather, if traveling fast (above 65) my fan would run, but relaxed (light right wrist) touring and was quiet until stopping. IMHO "does it help" ... most likley 'some'. The frame is so tight to the head and covers most of it (compared to the left) that the 1$ RSS is really not that bad. I wish I could push more air over the rear head but this is the reality of the design. My oil temps are a hair lowwer and after 15 mile runs to work and back I have some times the fan does not run even when turning off the engine, which is a mild change from pre-mod. Chas PS: my 1$ scoop is a little futher out and I used black ionized alen bolt with black painted nylon spacers ... looks fairly clean. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I only went out an inch because the plastic has a piece that runs up against the inside of the frame tank. I can only assume that you pulled it down an inch and then out 3.5 inches. Does that sound right? How does it look at 3.5" out? Post some photos please. What are your oils temps? (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on May 26, 2008) | ||
| Chas1969 |
E-glider I filed the top rib off so it is a little more flush with the frame and made it easy to pull out 3.5". Concerning the oil temps ... very subjective but in my ride to work in 60 degree AM temps it ussually keeps less than 80C. In long freeway 75+ mph tours my oil temp is 95-100C (weather in the 90's). Chas PS: the lowwer bolt is not needed and was to much of a hassle.   | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Chas, No fair, yours is so darn clean. Looks good and I see that you slotted out that bottom front hole to make that bolt work. Personally I'll bet that bottom bolt is not necessary because that plastic is so rigid and durable. From the side view you provided it pretty much looks stock. I went out to the garage this morning and just removed that plastic piece and will see how that performs in terms of fan use and swingarm oil temps. I'm thinking (hoping/speculating/praying) that without that plastic piece the air will not be so stagnate around the top of the engine, especially so when the bike is not moving. Couple that with the other mods I've done over time http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/312339.html and I'm thinking the heads will be cooler and therefore the oil will follow suit. The temp dipstick will prove this one way or the other. Looks-wise it shows more of that beautiful V-twin than it did before. If this doesn't pan out then I shall try exactly what you've done sans that bottom front bolt. Thanks for the photos. For those interested, the only thing I'm trying to accomplish is to only have the fan come on when I shut the engine off. That would mean, to me, that the engine is getting warm enough to boil off condensate but not hot enough for the fan to run while riding. I don't know if that is possible at high speeds. I'm still with the original fan at 12,000 miles. | ||
| Teeps |
Maximum Posted on Monday, May 26, 2008 After about four weeks, I believe that my new $300 low profile air scoops are less efficient compared to the stock configuration. It may be my imagination, but it seems like my fan runs more than it did before. It's not your imagination. The fan operation on my Uly remains fickle and illogical, except to the bike's ECM. Here's the "scoop" on the big air scoop: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/224426.html?1157060224 My conclusion: the low profile scoops look cool. | ||
| Chas1969 |
E-glider I don't know about the oil temps (if the RSS changes much) because the Uly really cools oil realy well. The RSS for me helps cool the rear head and hopfully helps with the longevity of the piston and valves (ie exhuast). In the Motorad 50K KM test (download from buel.com) which showed scoring of rear cylinder becuase of to much heat. The RSS might help some, so no big deal especially at 1$. Chas | ||
| Maximum |
Teeps: I remember reading that thread last year...it was good to revisit it. | ||
| Etennuly |
Maximum, try taking out the screens. It should let much larger volumes of air in. Screens of any type block a lot more than you would think especially if they are angled. | ||
| Maximum |
That is a good thought Vern...I only wish I would have tried that prior to securing the screens to the fiberglass with an entire package of two-part epoxy!  | ||
| Etennuly |
Hmmmmmmm  though mebby they secured with clips.....sorry Steve. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Maximum, I know they look cool but it looks to me as if they've taken the stock scoop hole size and gave half to your new RSS and LSS to equal up that of the stock. Can you remove the front "red" outside hole trim to in effect enlarge the size of each scoop? | ||
| Teeps |
Maximum, I did not install the screens. Removing them will make some difference; but they are still not as effective* as the big air scoop. effective* in this case meaning, that the angry fan does not run as much, if at all, when riding at speed (45mph & faster.) | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Chas, I made a small aluminum bracket and moved it out as far as yours. Right off the bat I noticed way more heat radiating and probably blowing off the right side. Uncomfortable heat and I had pretty much made that a non-issue with all my other mods. But here's the thing that really clinched the deal, the swing arm oil temp as measured with the temp dip stick provided the hard data. The oil temp went higher than I've ever seen on my bike. It got as high as 212 F when normally it would only get about 180 to 190 F and every once in awhile I've seen 200 F. Needless to say I changed it back to stock which only took me a few minutes. Kudos to Buell. Apparently the Buell engineers figured this out ahead of time. Introducing wind on the upper right side that is normally blocked with that plastic piece, messes with the air being funneled in by the LSS. But, experimenting is fun and this time it was enlightening. Anyway, 12 to 30 degrees hotter oil doesn't sound like much but the heat off the right side was brutal. | ||
| Chas1969 |
E-glider I am in a 2 week long cold spell so hard to turn around and test the oil temp. difference in 60-70 weather. I did change it back to stock and I am waiting for 80-90 and a long run at speed to test the difference. Their seems to be a loading effect that takes time, a fair amount of gas and higher air temps to see the oil temps go up and fan to kick in (at speed). Erik has designed a tuff cookie with how the rear is enclosed and the engine is so close to the right frame. It maybe that RSS has no effect or help to offer in cooling ... maybe causes much turbulence that it makes it less effective. Who knows. The part I dislike is the dependence on a fan that runs non-stop on long tours. If the fan poops out what then. The patent diagram of the cooling system and looking at the back of the rear cylinder, the only main outlet for hot air is through the hole that is partially occupied by the fan. So at the hottest heat loading of the engine the fan is really the only way to pull lots of heat away from the engine ... this maybe the only conclusion to the RSS, it was never designed for anything but a fan. The next outlet for hot air is the Right side itself. I only feel it with a left cross wind, but never to discomfort. My bike seems to have a tipping point with running the bike hard/fast, long and warmer weather and it did not matter RSS or stock config. Maybe that tipping point longer in the distance/heat loading ... this is what I thought. But one thing I can say is that 20-30+ miles in 80+ F heat at 70+ mph the fan will come on. So no way to escape dependence on the fan. I will get back to you on the oil temp. with warmer weather. Chas | ||
| Growl |
Chas wrote: "The part I dislike is the dependence on a fan that runs non-stop on long tours. If the fan poops out what then." Not to worry Chas... if the fan fails you can still limp home, driving easily. If the heat builds enough to threaten the engine it will go into skip mode. | ||
| Chas1969 |
Growl, Most people with non-buell background only have cooling fans come on (with water cooled bikes) when one was going slow or where not a lot of air was going through the radiator. So it seems buells are counter to this expeirence at speed. At good speed with lots of air going through the left scoop or both left/right scoop, the fan still starts up. Heat needed to be exchanged goes up exponentially at good speed but only the fan running suck-it fast enough to cool the engine. So the limiting factor is not getting air to the engine, but having it leave. "RSS" I guess I am indifferent to, does it help .... most likley not. I will just buy a spare fan off ebay and have it ready if needed. The limp-back-home skip mode doesn't sound that great. Chas | ||
| Bertotti |
I just had to have an rss from http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9160F.html} but now that I have it fitted I am not sure I want it. I waited months for it and longer for some time to get it one now 230 dollars later I don't think I want it. Oh well that's life I guess. I was hoping for a cooler seat area not a fan that runs less and I can say it sure doesn't seem any of the seat area is cooler. I also like symmetry and this filled that bill but it just isn't as important now that the jewels are cooking again. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I'm going to open more holes in the plastic area that includes the bungee cord hook holders. I've already got a few that seems to help. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/295156.html And if you are wondering, it stays clean and dry under my seat. It takes about 30 to 40 miles of 60 to 80 mph to get my fan to kick on and shorter rides it just comes on at shut down. More draw under the seat seems like a good idea to me. The 1125R is designed to funnel air through a channel under the seat. My oil normally stays in the 180 to 190 F range. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on June 09, 2008) |
