| Author | Message | ||
     Blackangus |
I have found lots of interesting information here on BadWeb that has been helpful. I will be ordering a service manual, but have been successful in my efforts to lift the bike and am poised to remove the axle in the a.m. A couple of questions for those experienced in this: My assumption is the axle is removed by turning it counterclockwise, yes? The axle is being stubborn; I assume there is some thread locker on it and I may just need a longer handle on my wrench? Is there a brand name for the anti-seize I should use when I put the axle back in? Thanks for any help. This is my first try at this but I'm taking the wheel in to get a new tire put on and refuse to pay the $250 for the rear tire (616), mount and balance the local dealer quoted me! No way! Of course, I've spent that much on my lift and new tools, but I'll do this again, right?! Gotta get this Uly back on the road! | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
The rear axle is RHT. If you go LHT, you'll definitely have a hard time getting it off. Mine was impact wrenched on. You may have to work it to get it off the first time. It will be bone dry of anti-seize. Don't forget to use your double nut doohicky in your blue toolbag. Some use tie straps and hang it from the rafters. Others use a hydraulic jack and phone books. Make sure to loosen the pinch bolt prior to removal (don't ask). And also make sure to reinstall and torque to spec the pinch bolt after reinstalling the axle (luckily my locally dealer had one in stock). I used the higher grade Anti-sieze from O'Reileys. Since you don't have a manual: Removal 1) Place a scissor jack under jacking point and raise rear wheel off ground. Do not operate rear brake pedal with rear wheel removed or caliper piston may be forced out. Reseating piston requires Caliper Disassembly. 2. Remove caliper carrier from swingarm by removing caliper carrier fasteners. 3. Loosen rear axle pinch fastener 4. Loosen rear axle approximately 15 rotation to allow partial tension to be removed from rear drive system 5. Remove idler pulley assembly by removing nuts and washers. (NOT REQUIRED) 6. Remove rear axle. 7Slide drive belt out of the way and remove rear wheel. Torque specs: tighten rear axle to 23-27 ft-lbs, back off two full turns and then retighten to 48-52 ft-lbs. Tighten pinch fastener on right side of swingarm to 40-45 ft-lbs. Tighten carrier fasteners to 24-26 ft-lbs. Good luck (Message edited by ft_bstrd on June 26, 2007) | ||
| Blackangus |
FTBSTD- Forgive my ignorance: RHT = ?? Please translate. I'm a clockwise/counterclockwise guy! I was happy to finally figure out what the double nut doohickey was for! Thanks for the help. | ||
| Stewadi |
Right Hand Turn I'm assuming | ||
| Jlnance |
Yes, it's counter clockwise to loosen. Get a breaker bar and a 7/8 socket. That will allow you to get the axle loose. It's easier to bust loose the axle, pinch bolt, and the two bolts holding the brake assembly on BEFORE you life the bike off the ground. | ||
| Crusty |
Make sure you loosen the pinch bolt. It comes up from the bottom of the swingarm, and it's easy to miss. | ||
| Bertotti |
Right Hand Threads = righty tighty, lefty loosey = clockwise to tighten. LHT is the opposite. Where are you using the anti seize? On the axle through the frame or on the nuts? On the nuts seems kind of counter intuitive to me. Should I assume some rusting issues? | ||
| Blackangus |
Thanks for all the help and clarifications. Counter-Clockwise it is then. I did loosen the pinch bolt and the caliper before lift off. Makes sense to do the axle while on the ground as well. The anti-Seize is for the axle/swingarm. As for rust issues, we'll see today. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I changed my back tire last weekend. I had no issues with seizing of rear axle; it came right out. When I removed it, the center of the axle was actually wet (drops of water showing) and pretty corroded. I hit it with PB Blaster and gave it a good wipedown which removed most of the corrosion, and then coated the entire center section with anti-seize. Hopefully the next change will be equally easy. | ||
| Etennuly |
The anti-seize is for the axle. They tend to become corroded inside the rim and it can get locked to the inner bearing races. Liberally painting the axle shaft with the anti-seize will make its removal much easier if it has to be done on the road. If you loosen the axle to the point the threads disengage, the axle is tapered, the wheel will move forward enough to allow the belt to be slid off the rear pulley without removing the idler pulley. | ||
| Maximum |
Blackangus: Bring your Uly up my way this Friday, and I can give you a hand with that. I just pulled my wheel last weekend and had "Affordable Motorcycle Tires" here in Denver replace the rubber for me, $126 for the Scorpion and $20 for the install. It was a pretty straight forward process, with no issues. (Message edited by maximum on June 26, 2007) | ||
| Adrian_8 |
I remove the lower belt guard but Do NOT remove the idler wheel assembly... | ||
| Bearly |
Maximum that's quite a price! Was that a back tire? I can't even order the tires for that much. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I got mine for the same price, but had to pay $10 shipping from ronayers.com. Mounting was "free", but it took me a good 2 hours using tire irons (it was MUCH harder than changing a tire on my tuber). | ||
| Oldnotbold |
I just pulled my wheel last weekend and had "Affordable Motorcycle Tires" here in Denver replace the rubber for me, $126 for the Scorpion and $20 for the install. Yet another reason to wish I still lived it Colorado. I just put a rear Sync on my 06 and it was $195 out the door at Cycle Gear. We don't have any motorcycle tire only dealers that I have found. Dennis | ||
| Maximum |
Bearly: Yes that was the rear tire. It is a fairly small shop, and they don't stock the Scorpions, but they can get them within a few days. Nice guys and more than fair on their prices for both product and services. I brought in my wheel, and they had be out the door in about 10 minutes. | ||
| Bearly |
I'm not trying to "one up you" or anything, but I pay only 16.80 for an install, but you have to buy the tire from them or they won't install it. Trouble is, I'm paying $168 for the Scorpion Sync rear. Grove Harley Davidson across the street charges (or wanted to charge me) $199 for the tire and $93 to install. This caused me to by one of those tire changers from Harbor Frieght and a Mojo Lever (mywebpages.comcast.net/prestondrake/mojoweb.htm) tire iron. I had to buy a MarcParnes.com, balancer as this shop can't balance a tire. Thanks for the info, I'm moving to Colorado! | ||
| Arcticktm |
In the interest of saving other BadWebbers money: Scorpion Sync rear $135 incl shipping from Motorcycle Superstore. Mounting & balancing (off the bike, of course) $15 at Chrome-N-Stuff in Hendersonville, NC. Took about 15 minutes, and they were technically already closed on a Friday! Also cheap and good in Hendersonville is Justice Cycle. He was willing to patch-plug a small hole in my new tire when Chrome-N-Stuff said their insurance would not allow it. Justice did make me sign a waiver, though. $20 for the repair including the tire R&R. Don't forget to do pretty much the entire axle in anti-seize (including a bit on the threads), not just the center. The ends in the swingarm are where it will seize up, not the center section that free-floats. "Lube" on threads may sound strange to some, but any time you put a lot of torque into a steel/aluminum joint, it seems to be a good idea. I believe the manual tells you to do this as well, which should mean the torque spec takes the anti-seize into account for proper clamp load. | ||
| Blackangus |
Mission accomplished. Thanks to all for their assistance. I now have a stock of tools to help with the task next time. Another plug here for Affordable Motorcycle Tires here in Denver. I got the tire through Motosport, but will buy from AMT next time. 10 Minutes and I was on my way. The front 616 seems fine for some more miles so I opted to replace the rear 616. I'll try the Syncs as a set next go--in August, I hope! Steve | ||
| Oldnotbold |
I just looked up the 07 specs in the online users manual and found that they recommend 34lb front and 36lb back. I assume then that I should be running 36lb on both because I still have the 616 on the front. Does this sound correct? Dennis |
