| Author | Message | ||
     Stewadi |
This goes out to those of you that have installed the Econo Drummer. Ok, I will be installing an Econo on my Ulysses and I think I have a game plan of the basic steps but I have some questions I hope you can help with: 1. Use an extension to go through the idler pulley to remove the rear brackets? 2. Since I am using the exhaust valve, do I still need to loosen the cable at the airbox? Is there enough slack in the cable so I can lower and remove the connection at the muffler? do I need to reset the valve after installation? I plan on placing a lift just under to support it once it is removed if that helps. 3. Manual recommends changing the front strap fastener? is this really needed? 4. Someone mentioned to apply a heat resistant anti-seize compound where the exhaust fits back into the header. Any suggestions? Ok, thats it. If you have any other suggestions, shortcuts or even pictures; feel free to include them. Thanks Dave | ||
| Cavi |
you should have enough cable, I used het resistent silicone, to seal the junction of the muffler and header. I reused all fastners | ||
| Supertoon |
I just removed the airbox cover and unhooked the cable, removed a few zip ties and feed a bit of cable down, no need to remove the cable, it looks like a major pita the feed it back up by the motor. As the muffler drops have the cable already unscrewed and just un-hook. I as well re-used all fasteners.The jury is still out on the sound, I am finding it a little aggressive, I have read that they mellow over time. Kevin did an excellent job on the pipe and it looks really classy and is well assembled! | ||
| Teeps |
Stewadi Posted on Tuesday, June 05, 2007: 1. Use an extension to go through the idler pulley to remove the rear brackets? That's what I did, you need a deep socket too. 2. Since I am using the exhaust valve, do I still need to loosen the cable at the airbox? I did not. I supported the loose muffler on my floor jack and was able to get the cable housing unscrewed and the cable free from the arm. do I need to reset the valve after installation? No, the cable housing screws in all the way. 3. Manual recommends changing the front strap fastener? is this really needed? I didn't replace any of the straps; but that's up to you. If you are the least bit anal about this stuff, follow the Buell's recommendations. 4. Someone mentioned to apply a heat resistant anti-seize compound where the exhaust fits back into the header. Any suggestions? I used some anti seize just to make it slip on easier. Sealant is not needed IMO. Ok, thats it. If you have any other suggestions, DO NOT over TORQUE the STRAPS. Read the manual carefully and follow its recommendations. | ||
| Stewadi |
Thanks for the suggestions everybody. Keep em' coming!! | ||
| Florida_lime |
Stewadi, Time to jump in there and JUST DO IT. Unless the suggestion you are looking for is for someone to show you how to do it.   | ||
| Stewadi |
lol...I hear ya. Time to get the hands dirty! I'm just trying to get some shortcuts to make it go as smooooooooth as possible. | ||
| Aeholton |
Teeps is spot on. One suggestion...reverse the rear straps so they can be easily accessed from the right side of the bike in the future. | ||
| Teeps |
I reversed the 2 rear straps, too, the first time I replaced the muffler. I really didn't care for the look, so put them back to stock. Personal choice. |
