| Author | Message | ||
     Motornoggin |
I'm renouncing dealer service, warranty or otherwise. They just can't get it done the way it needs to be done. I'm not giving up on my Uly because I love riding it! I'm just completely fed up with trying to get something done. Anyhoo, what do I need in the way of specialty tools, instruction on certain procedures, extra parts, etc? I have the factory service manual and good mechanical aptitude. My goal is to become an XB expert so I can ride my Uly without worrying about whether or not I'll get it home. | ||
| Bearly |
Just remember lefty loosey, righty tighty | ||
| Ulywife |
Get the parts book as well. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
"Just remember lefty loosey, righty tighty" Except on the front axle. "Get the parts book as well." For the '07 model because they changed to some better parts for '07. Much like owning anything else "American" made, you will need to invest in a butt load of quality SAE, Metric, and Torx tools. They couldn't just stick to one type and a few sizes. Noooo, they had to use the absolute hardest Torx size to find. The whole Plethora of SAE allens and a couple Metric ones thrown in for fun. A torque wrench is wise even though they give the wrong specs for a few important parts in the manual. The VDSTS is a good investment for doing your own TPS resets and some data logging. Loc-tite and Anti-seize are just as important too. Invest in some replacements for the oddball shoulder bolts they like to use because you will lose some and no bolt store carries them. They also use a bunch of non-reuseable nuts you will need extras for and I'm not talking about the easy to find Nylon Lock nuts that can be reused in a pinch. They like the slotted compression style that are useless once removed. At least the parts are cheap (by mail order) and most of the maintenance is fairly easy when you figure out what parts of the service manual to skip over. I've found it better to ask here for tips before starting a task because someone has experienced it and can tell you the proper way to do it and what to expect. The service manual will merely act as a guide thru some steps. It's not one of the better ones I've had. | ||
| Teeps |
Buy "Professional Grade Tools" from either Snap-On, Mac, Matco, etc... You'll spend more going in; but in the long run the expense and inconvenience they save you, from not having to replace stripped fasteners is priceless. Especially the Torx bits! | ||
| Dualbuelljohn |
Craftsman tools will work just fine.. Just buy the better grade of tools (not the 5000 piece kit for $99.99). You will want short and deep sockets in six point, a 10mm 12 point, and a T27 torx socket. You will need a 6" extension and a 4" extension as well as a swivel. 3/8" drive will cover 95% of what you will be twisting. Figure $400 One set of wrenches. These should be a good quality English set plus a set of flare end wrenches (an absolute must for oil and brake line fittings) Figure $200 I will double the recommendation of torque wrenches (you will need both foot lbs and inch lbs), micrometer wrenches seem to work fine and aren't too expensive. You will be tightening a lot of fasteners into aluminum which strips easily. Figure $190 I would also recommend a good tap/die kit, it will enable you to clean out threads making stripping them less likely. Figure $80 You will want a funnel for getting fluids into the bike, and some kind of catch basin for catching the fluid as it comes out. Figure $20 Also invest in blue and red loc-tite as well as 595 thread sealer (highly useful for oil fittings). Figure $10 You will want a good quality toolbox, Jack and most importantly, a clean well lit work area. Eventually you will need additional tools, but buy them as needed, you will have invested $900 in tools just for the basics. Snap-on, Mac, etc will cost you more like $2000 for the same tools, they are of very good quality, but you won't really need it unless you are a professional mechanic.. | ||
| Cmgaviao |
1/4 inch drive torque wrench to avoid over torquing things... | ||
| Hughlysses |
If you don't have (or don't want) to spend $900 to begin with, you can start with the basic tools (what you'd need to do oil changes, primary change adjustment, wheel removal). Then as you move on to bigger jobs, buy the tools as you need them. | ||
| M2nc |
Go for it. I have had the transmission out the M2 to fix a seal on the main shaft before. It was not hard with the right tool and a factory rep that works for beer. I do not know if you have one of those, but it was well worth the six-pack. | ||
| Paochow |
VDSTS software from Al Lighton (americansportbike.com) or Andy @ Appleton HD and the tools above should complete the maintenance requirements. Check out the Rider assistance network as their may be someone in your area with TPS software. | ||
| Ihavemanyfleas |
can't find the link on al's site for the VDSTS... | ||
| Horridus |
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9305.html try this Horr | ||
| Ihavemanyfleas |
has anyone used the ECM remapping tool, and had any success with it? | ||
| Motornoggin |
Thanks for the info folks! I have lots of tools, just needed to know if there were any special Buell only things I needed. I appreciate the info! |
