| Author | Message | ||
     Florida_lime |
Time to hear from all the Uly owners who have some time on the "both headlights on with high beams at the same time" mod. I know some people commented about excess heat and possible melting problems. Who has had problems with the mod (or not)? Treadmarks and the Deathray need not reply.  I heard he received a call to attend the recent conference on global warming. | ||
| Maximum |
6500 miles with mod, no issues except greater visability! (Message edited by maximum on June 01, 2007) | ||
| Chris_in_tn |
I have run the dual headlight for 13K with no problem. | ||
| Rotorhead |
22,000 miles with the mod. 1 stock bulb(low beam)blew 2 days ago the first stock bulb blew during break-in a year ago. I replaced them with the super whites. I run them both on all the time. The Army rule on post is to ride with your high beam on all the time. No issues with meltdown at all. When I need some real light I flick on the PIAA's | ||
| Brad1445 |
3rd one eyed Xbike Buell always toggle switch to fire both up. No harm yet, total 45,000 miles | ||
| Vanbuell |
Hi from vancouver B.C. 5000 Km;s with both a blazin. Better than just one. An easy modification in the switch.There are no signs of any over heating problems.I have never had another driver flash his high beams because he was ticked.When I need real light, I switch on my Piaa's. With these on it's like the sun came up again. | ||
| Wananuly |
Is there a thread for this mod? | ||
| Bienhoabob |
Wananuly, Here's one on another forum. www.buelletinboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=810 (Message edited by bienhoabob on June 02, 2007) | ||
| Maximum |
I had first done this mod by just switching the orange and yellow wires, but didn't like the way my headlight would stay on if I accidentally went one notch past lock, into the park position. So I opened up the left hand switch housing and soldiered a short jumper wire. On the back (inside the housing) of the switch you will find three wires, the center wire is hot, another wire is hot when the Hi/Lo beam switch is in the low position, and the last wire is hot when the switch is in the high position. Use a voltmeter to figure out which is which, then soldier the jumper from the center to low beam wire. Now the low beam light will always be on. I didn't take any pictures, but it is pretty straight forward and holding up fine 6 months later. | ||
| Firstbatch |
Did the mod no issues. Simple conversion and definitely provides much better daytime visibility. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like the way to go. I'm going to order a pair of these Monday, (H7 Bulb, 12V, 65W, Hyper by Osram, 2100 Lumens), and then do the mod. I am not worried about the extra heat from the 10 watt increase, I usually run the highs for night-time use only. Maximum, I don't mind the lights on for "Park", makes it easier to see if I messed up before I walk away and come back to a dead battery. Been there, done that... (Message edited by florida_lime on June 03, 2007) | ||
| Jmhinkle |
I agree with Florida about liking the light coming on in "park." I know for sure if I missed lock better than trying to judge if the tail light is on. I did the wire mod last year sometime. No problems yet and I run PIAA Extreme white plus bulbs. 4000k and the PIAA rating of 55w=110w. They are extremely bright bulbs and are a true white without that blue tint that is common to some of the upper k bulbs. | ||
| Kip |
I keep trying to get the wires out. No luck yet on both sides. Whats the trick to geting them out? I have been using a tiny eyeglass screwdriver but I cant tell what there hung up on. | ||
| Florida_lime |
Kip, Read through the link posted above, there are some tips and pictures. Some people have no problem, others struggle with it. I hope to have time Saturday or Sunday, I'll find out which group I fall under then. | ||
| Kip |
well I had trouble I guess I will be fixing it tomorrow when radio shack opens.One of the connectors broke when I pulled it out. The next one was hard also but I pushed it through barely. | ||
| Florida_lime |
I did my "low beam on with high beam mod" this morning, in addition to installing the 65W Osram bulbs. I did the bulbs first, you definitely have to drop the headlight housing to see what you are doing with the bulb retainer clip, but no biggie, it's just the 3 T-27 bolts. I did have to file one of the bulb's mounting tangs a bit to make sure it snapped into it's slot, but that wasn't too bad. Next up was the switching of the 2 wires in the connector. After hearing some of the problems some people have had with it, I was a little cautious. It went very smooth, everything works great. I can't wait to leave work in the am to try them out. I didn't have the digital camera with me, plus I would have needed an 'assistant', but I will try to note a few key points to hopefully save someone the aggravation of having to replace a connector. The connector is white plastic, and is held in position on the metal bracket by another white plastic clip. I released the holding clip, pushing it out the hole to make it more accessible. To pull apart the connector, you have to squeeze the white plastic 'finger', then pull the 2 halves apart. I worked with the side of the connector that holds the female connector ends. There is a clip that holds all 4 wire in place, just open it up on the hinge to free up the 4 wires. On the Uly, the wires you want to switch are the orange/white stripe and the yellow wire. Holding the connector, the wires are orange/white on top, then white, yellow, and black at the bottom. I used a jewelers screwdriver, the smallest in the set of 7. Insert it into the connector between the metal female piece and the tiny plastic tab, while pulling the back of the wire lightly. I did not need to pull hard, or use needlenose pliers as some have said. I did the orange/white wire first, then I did the white wire, then the yellow wire. I only did the white wire to make it easier to get a grip on the yellow wire. Once the wires are out, re-insert the orange/white female metal connector back into the third location. Follow with the white wire back into it's original slot, then the yellow wire, now at the top location. Make sure that they are seated in the connector, then plug the connector halves back together. Test the lights before you re-assemble everything, and check again as you reverse the order that you followed to take everything apart. Not hard to do, but since a few people have had trouble with it, I thought I'd take the time to clarify things a little. |
