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Buell Motorcycle Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through June 11, 2007 » Risers Question « Previous Next »

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Wananuly
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Which would fit the Uly with the fewest install issues?

22mm Handlebar Risers or
28mm Fat Bar Handlebar Risers

These are from Trojan. I need about 1.5 inches of rise and about an inch to the rear for the best ergos for me. `

Thanks!
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 11:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you wanting to retain the stock bars?

If so, only the 22mm will work.

I don't think these will give you what you are looking for since they only give you one inch and it's straight up from the triple tree top clamp.

You may want to look at these instead:

http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.c gi?subcat_id=268
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Wananuly
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow - those look sweet! Yes, I'd like to retain the original bars (will the original bars work with these risers?) but I need them higher and closer to me. Do these require any rerouting/extending of wires or control cables?
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/277042.html?1180110267

Take a look at this conversion done by Treadmarks. I don't believe he had to swap out the clutch, brake, or throttle cables to use the risers. You may want to IM him and see.

I think for what you are wanting to do, for the money, and for the flexibility to adjust the bars to just where you want them to be the Rox Risers are the way to go.
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Cavi
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 05:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I am sold also.
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The cheapest way to go.......

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/228937.html

I don't have heated grips, so no need to cut the top clamp. Just one trip to Home Depot to get some longer bolts and about 10 min. to put it together.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 01:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agreed Wolf, but that option doesn't allow 1.5-2 inches of rise or rearward movement.

I have seen a two stacker.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I know that some of you fellow owners have raised your bars by one method or another. But, after fixing the left steering impediment problem caused by the electrical wire bundle being held way too firmly by 3 factory applied tie wraps I can't but wonder if you now have steering lock problems. Even after removing the tie wraps I noticed that the two throttle cables seem to be at their limit or very close to it. Are you guys still able to get free steering lock to lock swing out of your forks? After removing the 3 tie wraps I am able to freely bang from lock to lock whereas before the wire harness and throttle cables wouldn't pull completely out of the way.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I looked closely at the difference between a 2006 and a 2007 wiring loom.

The 2007 loom seems to have more slack than does the 2006. It also appears to be better wrapped in order to prevent chafing.

I don't know if it makes a difference here, but there seem to be differenced from bike to bike even.

Part of my wiring loom was not routed properly whereas ChadHargis wiring loom didn't have this defect. His is tighter in some areas causing rubbing whereas mine has a slightly looser wrap and no rubbing.

I think it differs from bike to bike. Looks you might have gotten the tight wrap, high zip tie, loom job.

Just a thought.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 04:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I haven't noticed a chafing problem with my wire loom but removing the zip ties seems to help out my particular bike.
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Treadmarks
Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As it was said earlier, I have the Rox Risers and they work great. The front brake line clamp behind the headlight shroud will need to be removed. The throttle cables are close, but I ran for 6 months like they were without any chafing problems. When I removed my forks to service them I took a detailed look at the throttle cable routing and noticed that they run across the ignition switch and could cause problems. I relocated my throttle cables to the left side of the cowling and gained a few inches of slack that allowed me to run them next to the harness under the plastic cover. I can now move the bars up and back as far as possible without any binding in the cables. I didn't have any issues with the clutch cable.
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Wananuly
Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2007 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Should the Rox Riser bolts be torqued? If so, what are the specs on the riser bolts and the original clamp bolts?
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