Author |
Message |
Wananuly
| Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 10:55 am: |
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Which would fit the Uly with the fewest install issues? 22mm Handlebar Risers or 28mm Fat Bar Handlebar Risers These are from Trojan. I need about 1.5 inches of rise and about an inch to the rear for the best ergos for me. ` Thanks! |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 11:31 am: |
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Are you wanting to retain the stock bars? If so, only the 22mm will work. I don't think these will give you what you are looking for since they only give you one inch and it's straight up from the triple tree top clamp. You may want to look at these instead: http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.c gi?subcat_id=268 |
Wananuly
| Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 12:07 pm: |
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Wow - those look sweet! Yes, I'd like to retain the original bars (will the original bars work with these risers?) but I need them higher and closer to me. Do these require any rerouting/extending of wires or control cables? |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 12:52 pm: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/277042.html?1180110267 Take a look at this conversion done by Treadmarks. I don't believe he had to swap out the clutch, brake, or throttle cables to use the risers. You may want to IM him and see. I think for what you are wanting to do, for the money, and for the flexibility to adjust the bars to just where you want them to be the Rox Risers are the way to go. |
Cavi
| Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 05:48 pm: |
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I think I am sold also. |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Wednesday, May 30, 2007 - 09:41 pm: |
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The cheapest way to go....... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/228937.html I don't have heated grips, so no need to cut the top clamp. Just one trip to Home Depot to get some longer bolts and about 10 min. to put it together. |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 01:02 am: |
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Agreed Wolf, but that option doesn't allow 1.5-2 inches of rise or rearward movement. I have seen a two stacker. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 10:16 am: |
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I know that some of you fellow owners have raised your bars by one method or another. But, after fixing the left steering impediment problem caused by the electrical wire bundle being held way too firmly by 3 factory applied tie wraps I can't but wonder if you now have steering lock problems. Even after removing the tie wraps I noticed that the two throttle cables seem to be at their limit or very close to it. Are you guys still able to get free steering lock to lock swing out of your forks? After removing the 3 tie wraps I am able to freely bang from lock to lock whereas before the wire harness and throttle cables wouldn't pull completely out of the way. |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 11:11 am: |
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I looked closely at the difference between a 2006 and a 2007 wiring loom. The 2007 loom seems to have more slack than does the 2006. It also appears to be better wrapped in order to prevent chafing. I don't know if it makes a difference here, but there seem to be differenced from bike to bike even. Part of my wiring loom was not routed properly whereas ChadHargis wiring loom didn't have this defect. His is tighter in some areas causing rubbing whereas mine has a slightly looser wrap and no rubbing. I think it differs from bike to bike. Looks you might have gotten the tight wrap, high zip tie, loom job. Just a thought. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 04:08 pm: |
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I haven't noticed a chafing problem with my wire loom but removing the zip ties seems to help out my particular bike. |
Treadmarks
| Posted on Thursday, May 31, 2007 - 05:07 pm: |
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As it was said earlier, I have the Rox Risers and they work great. The front brake line clamp behind the headlight shroud will need to be removed. The throttle cables are close, but I ran for 6 months like they were without any chafing problems. When I removed my forks to service them I took a detailed look at the throttle cable routing and noticed that they run across the ignition switch and could cause problems. I relocated my throttle cables to the left side of the cowling and gained a few inches of slack that allowed me to run them next to the harness under the plastic cover. I can now move the bars up and back as far as possible without any binding in the cables. I didn't have any issues with the clutch cable. |
Wananuly
| Posted on Saturday, June 02, 2007 - 11:11 am: |
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Should the Rox Riser bolts be torqued? If so, what are the specs on the riser bolts and the original clamp bolts? |