| Author | Message | ||
     Gtmg |
Some background. My neutral light has been coming on and off sometimes. I was due for the 5000 mile service so I performed it yesterday. I have a 2006 Ulysses. 1. Found water in the primary. I do a lot of rainy riding. Did not expect that but understand now how to prevent with grease in the rubber sleeve over clutch adjuster. 2. Changed oil to Formula +. Immediately after change it appeared light was working. Had to wait to ride until later in the evening and could not find neutral and light was not working after starting up. 3. Checked primary chain it was adjusted properly probably a little more than 1/2" cold. Say 5/8". 4. This AM adjusted clutch and handle after reading the forum for issues. EZ to do. Now can find neutral but still no light. 5. During adjustment verified that primary oil was at the right level. While clear in the bottom it had some oil with condensate in it on the cover. Now my questions? 1. Should I go ahead and change the primary oil again to make sure all water is flushed out? 2. While pulling the sprocket cover to check the neutral indicator saw rust on the front sprocket. Is this a real bad thing? 3. The neutral indicator is slightly behind the sprocket. I was very wary of pulling the wire to do the ground check because I wasn't sure that I could get in back on. Is there a trick to this? And what would you use for a ground? Thanks, Mike (Message edited by gtmg on May 25, 2007) | ||
| Maximum |
I had a faulty neutral light within my first 50 miles. The dealer found that the front sprocket cover was pinching the neutral sensing switch wire. You might want to start there. | ||
| Rays |
I have a 2006 Uly and had trouble with my neutral switch for ages. Symptoms included not switching the light on when in neutral, switching the neutral light on when in gear, switching the neutral light on but very dimly (this has a secondary effect of sometimes causing the starter solenoid to chatter when attempting to start - readily checked by re-trying the crank with the clutch pulled in). I raised this as an issue at the 8000kmm service and the dealer could not fault the switch operation and this dragged on as nuisance value through the 16,000 & 24,000 services - in my case it tended to mis-behave when the engine was relatively cold so they could never duplicate the issue and refused to replace it without 'proof'. I eventually gave up and replaced it myself at the 32,000km service. Here in Australia it cost about US$21 so should be about half that in the US going by the normal markup we see here. It can be removed with the pulley in place but I did it when I had the rear wheel off so the belt could be moved out of the way. The electrical connector is a simple push-on arrangement (not so obvious looking from the outside and there is also an in-line connector in the wire bundle to the right of the pulley. Either of these points will allow you to measure the resistance of the switch - the engine cases are the return point as that is where the switch connects to when made. The interesting point about this switch is that it is an actual switch, not a simple contact like every other neutral switch I've played with. Given the way mine seemed to misbehave much more when the oil was cold I could easily see that you might get strange behavior with a lot of condensation in the primary oil. I've now got a bit over 38,000km on it now and have seen no more issues with the new switch - I've had a few problems with wiring and electrical contacts but the neutral switch is the only non-service item I've had to replace to date.  | ||
| Ulytime |
I'm having trouble getting the neutral light to come on (or maybe I'm having trouble finding neutral) - up, down - up, down - up, down and finally I find neutral so the light will come on. Only 100 miles and counting on the new 07. (Message edited by ulytime on May 28, 2007) | ||
| Lorazepam |
Ulytime, I am guessing that it is partly getting used to the Uly, and if the primary chain and clutch arent adjusted properly, neutral can be hard to find. If you continue to have trouble, consider a primary chain adjustment. It takes all of 10 minutes or so, and makes a big difference. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Ulytime, When mine was new, it was impossible to find neutral when running. At 100 miles or so I checked the Primary chain and found it had no slack when cold. Tight as could be in there. Adjustment is quick and easy and neutral hasn't been a problem since. I would check the primary chain first. | ||
| Turbooster |
The neutral light on my 2006 Uly quit working. While testing I discovered that the bulb and switch were good, but the push-on connector was loose. When I push on it, the light shows, but not when left alone. Is there some way that I can tighten it so it will hold and light? |
