| Author | Message | ||
     Stevem123 |
OK I have prepped the bike to rotate the engine in order to remove the headers. I have ceramic coated headers to replace the stock ones and need to fix the weeping oil cooler fitting on the front of the oil filter housing while I have access to it. The problem I'm having is the front isolater bolt has frozen to the threaded insert in the frame. This resulted in my not being able to get the bolt out because the threaded insert broke loose and now all that happens is the rubber of the isolater is holding so good that I can't turn the bolt enough to remove the front mount. The threaded insert part that screws into the frame has hexagonal flats for screwing it into the frame with a socket or wrench but it will require me to fabricate a thin open end wrench to get between the frame and the isolator mount to hopefully hold the threaded insert to break the isolator bolt loose from it. Can anyone tell me what size wrench I need to make for this? It looks like somewhere between a 7/8" and a 1" but I can't get any kind of measuring tool in there to tell for sure. This sucks big-time. I tried to wedge anything I could find against one side of the flats to hold it but had no luck. Now I'm down for the count..... BC Steve | ||
| Stevem123 |
FYI Well since I didn't hear an answer I called Buell C.S. and after waiting on hold forever I finally got to a tech. The wrench I'll need is a 1" This is the first occurance of them hearing about the thread insert coming loose while trying to remove the front isolator bolt. The tech said he would check out the line to see how they are assembling this particular part but recommended I use antisease on the bolt when I finally get it apart and go back together with it. That and of course I need to use permanent locktight on the thread insert to the frame since it should never come out. BC Steve | ||
| Pso |
How are you going to fix the weeping connection? My fiance's Scg is doing it. I am going to take it uder warrenty issues but would like to know the fix anyway. (Message edited by pso on May 25, 2007) | ||
| Stevem123 |
Basically on mine the leak is at the pipe threads of the fitting and I suspect it may have been caused by heat from the header pipe being in such close proximity to the fitting. I believe the heat deterioriated the pipe thread sealant they used on the fitting. You could try to tighten the fitting but it would require turning it in another full turn to line up with the flair tube going to the oil cooler. I found I would have to remove the oil pressure sensor just above it to turn the fitting all the way around another turn. I decided to forgo that train of thought since a pipe thread is a tapered thread and turning it another turn could potentially fracture/split the aluminum it is screwing into. That would be a really bad thing to happen since it is part of the engine casing... Thus is the need to remove the header in order to remove the fitting and apply some high temp thread sealer to fix the leak. I'll still need to remove the oil pressure sensor but that will also be easier once I get the exhaust headers off... Ahh the joys of wrenching...... BTW mine is still under warranty but can you imagine how long a job like this would take them to get done???? I want to ride it some more this year! BC Steve | ||
| Stevem123 |
FYI If it weren't for the problem of the isolator bolt being stuck, I would have been finished and riding today. Rotating the engine seems like a lot of work but it's not really that bad. It only took me about an hour till I got to the point where I found the stuck isolator bolt and that's the last part of disassembly before lowering the engine. BC Steve | ||
| Birdmanrh |
BS, I had the same problem and posted here about it. | ||
| Stevem123 |
Birdmanrh, I feel your pain but I finally got the bastard out. Wish I had seen your post but all is well now and I'll be going back with antisease for sure. BC Steve Here's a pic of the offending bolt and mount:  | ||
| Radegast |
I've noticed the Buell Cad plating is sub-par to say the least. I've been coating all my exposed hardware with "Chain Wax" to prevent corrosion. So...I still have to use chain lube.  |
