| Author | Message | ||
     Lovehamr |
Hi all, I just got all the parts in to replace my front brake rotor and pads (thanks Andy) and will be tackling the job here in a day or two. Before I jumped in though I thought that I ask you guys if anyone has any hints to make the job go easier. I'm all about easy because basically I'm lazy  . Thanks, Steve | ||
| Lovehamr |
Nobody's gonna give me any hints huh? Jeez this is a tough crowd. Steve | ||
| Stevenknapp |
I did the pads with the front wheel off, when I was changing the fork oil. It was very straightforward. I can't speak for the Rotor. Chad Hargis has a wave rotor on his, might be able to comment. | ||
| Stevem123 |
I don't think there are any shortcuts for the job. Just make sure you wipe the new rotor down with brake cleaner or acetone to remove any protective lubricant before you re-install the caliper and pads. Also use some lock-tight on the threads of the rotor bolts. Good luck! BC Steve | ||
| Teeps |
If the rotor bolts are Torx type heads. Make sure to use a "High Quality" bit. Get them from Snap-On, Mac or other professional tool provider. | ||
| Strokizator |
If the bolts are stuck really tight, use a small torch to heat things up a bit (not cherry red!). This will soften the thread locking compound. | ||
| Chadhargis |
It's pretty easy. Just make sure you use the proper torque on the fasteners, and use NEW fasteners...the old ones are not reuseable. One more thing that will help is an extra pair of hands to hold the rotor while you screw it down. The rotor floats on small springs, and they tend to want to make things fly apart while you're trying to mount the rotor. | ||
| Lovehamr |
Thanks for the help guys. Here are a few pics from the install last night. I don't need no stinking wood blocks!  Using a 3/8" ratchet these puppies wouldn't budge but with a little heat and a small impact the bolts came right out.   This shows the bolt and spacer arangment.  More detail on the spacers.   Old rotor off.   Like Chad said, some patience is reqired while setting the new rotor, spacers, springs and bolts into position.   Done.   Since I don't have the manual and don't no what's in it I put a few hints here. #1 To do this the right side of the fender needs to be removed as there is not enough room to manipulate the caliper out of the wheel for wheel removal. #2 There was no anti-sieze of any type on the front axle--there is now. #3 The heat hint works great but do be careful with it's application #4 The axle is threaded reversed so the righty tighty, lefty loosey thing doesn't work here. #5 I dig the LRB gold pads! BTW I found this pic of one of our own in another forum. Wonder who it is?  Steve | ||
| Mikef5000 |
How many miles did you have on your old rotor to need to replace it? Looks like a pretty straight forward job with the right tools. | ||
| Lovehamr |
I replaced it at 9300mi. But I have to say that it was because I was a dips##t and let my pads get to worn, not because the rotor was just "worn out." Won't let that happen again. As to the job; yes with the right tools it was no problem, a manual probably would've helped though. If I had to do it again, it would probably take no more than 30-45min. But without air, lift or heat it would've been a big hassle. Steve |
