| Author | Message | ||
     Bud |
has any body rerouted there cables, to get the full steering potential to the left.. every time i'm slow driving and do some low speed turning i mis a little to the left, due to the cables ? gr, b | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Cables are definitely in the way. They need to be deflected down just a bit more at the head to clear the fork. I haven't successfully got mine to stay out of the way yet. Now that I have my bike completely torn apart for new tires, brakes, '07 springs, and some other farkles, I think I will try to figure a better route out. I'll keep you posted. | ||
| Windrider |
Bud and JMHinkle, If you have the '06 Uly there is a fix for this! It is very cheap and works good as well. In '07 Buell changed the plastic piece that routes the cable bundle around the frame. The new bit is PN # Y1000.2AK and it will cost you all of $3.15. HIGHLY recommended to avoid cable bundle damage and give you full left lock turning ability. It is a bit of a pain to install unless you have the left fork tube removed but it I did it in about 30 minutes without removing for fork leg. | ||
| Bud |
Thanks Windrider I will order the part number and have a go with it cheers, Bud | ||
| Jmhinkle |
I went another route altogether. After studying the whole issue while the bike is disassembled, I found several problems that are involved besides the plastic guide. The first is the fact that when they routed the main cable thru that plastic piece they then pulled it back to the left under the hood and ziptied it there. It causes extreme tension when the bars are turned left. After I cut the zip tie, it allowed the wire bundle some relief, but is still pulls hard against the entry point of the plastic guide. I took the guide off, removed the wire bundle from it, reinstalled it just over the throttle cables using only the top bolt and reversing the direction of the bolt as well. Used a zip tire on the bottom hole to hold it in place. I then covered the wire bundle in loom and routed it where the bottom bolt was. This now allows the bars to turn freely in both directions with no binding or pulling on the wire bundle either. I also found that the throttle cables cause problems with the left fork if they are not arranged top to bottom so I zip tied them back a little as well. Roll your mouse over the pics for description of what you are seeing. I recommend every one consider doing something like this because the amount of tension and routing of the wire bundle is not good at all and will cause more problems than steering lock issues in the long run.     | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Any picts of the 07 piece? | ||
| Jmhinkle |
Just wanted to add that while I had the bike up on the jack so that the front wheel was off the ground the steering had quite a bit of resistance to turn, but not so much that it would seem out of the ordinary on the ground. If turned to the left, it would also pull back to center on its own. To the right would pull back a little, but not to center. Once I rerouted the cables, there is absolutely no resistance in the turning path at all now. The bars would stay at either lock position with the forks removed. Once I put the forks back in, the bars would return to very close to center due to the balance of weight. Now it is noticeably easier to turn on the ground. I really urge you guys to look into this. Pull the 6 screws to remove the front plate and then check the tension on your cable as you turn the bars. I can't believe how much lighter the steering is on my bike now and I have full lock to lock swing without obstruction. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Thanks JmH. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I removed 3 zip ties. The big one in your photo ad and the other two that secured the wires that y-off of that same bundle. Makes a noticeable difference in locking out to the left. Those factory applied zip ties really restrict that bundle of wires from moving where it has to go during left steering lock but not anymore. |
