Author |
Message |
Erz
| Posted on Friday, March 02, 2007 - 05:49 pm: |
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Buying a new Uly. Want to change the oil after 20 minutes of break in. Do not have bike yet. Is the drain plug and filter openly accessible or is it a pain to get to? |
Mesa_cityx
| Posted on Friday, March 02, 2007 - 05:55 pm: |
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Drain plug is easy( left side of swingarm). Filter requires removal of chin spoiler(use torx wrench in tool kit). Whatever you do DO NOT tell ANYONE what kind of oil you are planning to use! |
Fastfxrs
| Posted on Friday, March 02, 2007 - 07:12 pm: |
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Some here have managed to strip out the drain plug on the swing arm by using the torque specs in the book. I've never torqued a drain plug to spec in my life and have never stripped one. Now I have officially jinxed myself. Stay tuned for a stripping story this spring. |
Stevenknapp
| Posted on Friday, March 02, 2007 - 07:47 pm: |
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Ya, 5/8" wrench for the drain plug. I didn't torque it "properly" just snug. I did buy that Loctite thread sealer goop they suggest. Not sure if it helps. When picking up the filter get a spare drain plug O-ring or two. Every once and awhile mine is torn, but mostly they can be reused. The filter will be a bit tougher, as mentioned you need to remove the chin spoiler. But removing it with the tool in the toolkit would drive me crazy. Those bolts are loctited in there good from the factory. Do your self a favor, but a 3/8 drive T27 torx socket from these guys. Almost everything on the bike seems to be T27. http://www.wihatools.com/763serie.htm It's $4 plus shipping. An will serve you well. Don't get the craftsman T27 (mine wasn't a good fit stripped a bolt head out, the Wiha one could still get a good grip on it tho) or the Lisle branded ones from the auto parts store (mine were weak metal and destroyed themselves while I was working inside an engine casing on my Triumph). If you wanted, pick up a couple other handy T27 tools and save on shipping. I find these helpful: For most work : http://www.wihatools.com/364soft.htm For a ratcheting screwdriver: http://www.wihatools.com/715_TINserie.htm For a small drill or cordless screwdriver: http://www.wihatools.com/745ser70.htm |
Jmhinkle
| Posted on Friday, March 02, 2007 - 08:27 pm: |
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Hey Erz, A common oil change practice that was recommended to me on the Uly and seemed to work good was 50, 500, 1000 miles. I used the Buell filters and HD oil for the first two then went with a better filter and synthetic oil at 1000. I did both the engine and crankcase on all three changes. Did you decide on an '06 or '07? (Message edited by jmhinkle on March 02, 2007) |
Kip
| Posted on Saturday, March 03, 2007 - 01:48 pm: |
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JMH, what kind of filter do you use? I've been looking for a better filter. I also run synthetic. |
Treadmarks
| Posted on Saturday, March 03, 2007 - 06:09 pm: |
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The K&N 177 works great with syn, and it comes in black and has a nut welded to the bottom to tighten/remove. |
Jmhinkle
| Posted on Saturday, March 03, 2007 - 06:35 pm: |
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That is the exact filter I use too. KN-177. I actually use K&N oil filters on all my vehicles because of that nut on the bottom. |
Fastfxrs
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 10:44 am: |
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Short of having to remove the chin fairing to get to the filter, the buells have a very accessible oil filter. I misplaced my filter wrench that fits it and have enough room to use a pipe wrench to loosen the filter. Sure beats hitting the stator plug every time I changed filter on my FLHT. Besides that is drained oil all over my voltage regulator. I'm getting much quicker at removing the chin fairing on the Buell. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 10:54 am: |
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You could always leave the chin spoiler off until you get through your rapid oil change break-in period. The bike looks and works just fine without it. |
Erz
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 12:26 pm: |
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I am very new to this. Can anyone show me in a pict which screws need to come off to remove the spoiler. Are they the three screws on the black piece only or do you have to dismantle the silver nose piece also? |
Lorazepam
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 02:31 pm: |
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the two in the nose, and the torx in the sides as well. |
Andrejs2112
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 07:43 pm: |
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What is the benefit of changing the oil and filter at 50, 500 miles? The dealer recommends a 1000 mile change. Just curious. Thanks |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 08:01 pm: |
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That's a subject of much debate. I subscribe to the "Motoman" theroy of engine run in (I hate the term "break" in). If you do a Google search for Motoman, you'll find all the info you need to make your own decision. |
Gamdh
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 08:27 pm: |
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Here's the link http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I used this method as well... so far 12k+ miles and all is well. I use very little oil between oil changes. |
Stevenknapp
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 09:06 pm: |
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the two in the nose, and the torx in the sides as well. Right, that whole piece comes off as one big U-shaped unit, the silver chin part, and the two black sides. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 09:28 pm: |
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Gamdh...same here. My Ulysses runs strong and uses very little oil. It doesn't ping, starts on the first try no matter what temp it is, and doesn't appear to have any issues whatsoever. |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 09:38 pm: |
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I have never seen that website before. I know nothing of ANY break in procedures other than those prescribed in the owners manual, and I don't know who ChadHargis is. My ulysses runs strong and uses very little oil. It doesn't ping, starts on the first try no mater what temp it is, and doesn't appear to have any issues whatsoever. |
Jmhinkle
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2007 - 02:46 am: |
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Andrejs2112, If you read the motoman article, he touches on an oil change at 20 miles for the same reason I was told 50 and 500. You get all the big machining pieces out of there right away. When I did my 50 mile change both the oil and tranny fluid looked like crap. Full of all kinds of shiny bits. 500 looked a lot better and 1000 was clean. I personally do my own type of break in somewhere in between the book and motoman method. I haven't used any oil since I changed it at 1000. 3200 miles on it now. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2007 - 02:12 pm: |
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Fatty...never visit the factory. You'd start crying when you see what happend to YOUR bike when it rolled off the assembly line. It got strapped to a two wheel dyno and redlined in every gear (except maybe 5th)....fresh off the line. Then it got shutdown after about two minutes of running. No warm up, no cool down, nothing. Just WOT in each gear. Looked like a fun job. Factory recomended break-in....LOL!! (Message edited by chadhargis on March 05, 2007) |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2007 - 07:45 pm: |
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Chadhargis, Does your wife know about those naked twins you claim to be partial to as professed in your profile. |
Andrejs2112
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2007 - 09:22 pm: |
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Anyone else change their oil at 50 miles and look at it? It makes sense to get rid of the big bits if there are any. Photos would be very nice! Thanks |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2007 - 09:40 pm: |
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Chad, Obviously, the sarcasm was lost! |
Troyyz
| Posted on Tuesday, March 06, 2007 - 12:27 am: |
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Andres2112, Maximum used the Motoman method on his recent break in procedure (this past month) and had success with it. He may have photos or additional advice. |