| Author | Message | ||
     Aeholton |
What do the Magnecor wires cost? | ||
| Treadmarks |
31 buckaroonies | ||
| Chadhargis |
I'm running the 10mm ones on my car with a high output coil. They are stout wires. Had a set on my Ducati too. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
Same sweet lady...doing double duty..you will get them in about 3 days or less. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Still stripped two of the screws. One so badly it had to be drilled. The other I cut a slot in with my dremel and use a flathead screwdriver to get it out. Stripped the head or the threads? If it's the head, who's Torx tools are you using? | ||
| Teeps |
Get a quality torx bit either from Snap-on or Mac. Apply heat (NO FLAME!) to the head of the screw(s); they will come right out. | ||
| Xbimmer |
... and use a T27, not a T25 like I thought the screws were...  | ||
| Wood_butcher |
Concerning the chaffed wires, has anyone asked their dealer to re-route, zip tie or whatever it takes to address the problem, either before they take possession of the bike or as a warranty item? Are dealers aware of the issue? Just curious and wondering if it is something I should bring to the dealers attention when I buy my bike this spring. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Get a quality torx bit either from Snap-on or Mac. Exactly! NOT CRAFTSMAN! And definately not Lisle. FWIW, I've found Wiha's stuff to be quite good, and about 1/5th the price of snap-on's. $4 vs $22 for the 3/8" drive socket, for example. They sell T-handles and screwdriver inserts/bits too. http://www.wihatools.com/763serie.htm | ||
| Teeps |
Wood_butcher Posted on Saturday, December 30, 2006 Concerning the chaffed wires, has anyone asked their dealer to re-route, zip tie or whatever it takes to address the problem, either before they take possession of the bike or as a warranty item? Warranty repairs are like playing defense, no reaction until there is an action. In other words no repair until there is a problem. The exceptions: "product update or recall." Regarding wires chaffing, most dealers would only do such "preventative repairs", if you: told them "what to repair" and paid them. | ||
| Adrian_8 |
The general course of action is if "If it ain't broke we can't fix it". But.. if someone is buying a new bike and said I will buy it if you wrap and reroute my wires it might get done. | ||
| Crusty |
I'll second the Wiha recommendation. I got a set of their screwdrivers on sale a few years ago, and I've found them to be the best screwdrivers I've ever used. I'm very impressed with them. | ||
| Teeps |
Adrian_8 Posted on Sunday, December 31, 2006 The general course of action is if "If it ain't broke we can't fix it". But.. if someone is buying a new bike and said I will buy it if you wrap and reroute my wires it might get done. "It might get done" If you tell the dealer exactly what you want done, and how you want it done, and pay up front to get it done; then "it might get done." Otherwise not! | ||
| Wood_butcher |
How much time would it take a "good" mechanic to wrap and reroute the wires in question? I'd be glad to pay a little up front to prevent a bunch of headaches down the road. I guess I could probably do it myself, but it sounds like some of the wires might be a little hard to get to, and I'm not the most "mechanically inclined" guy around! | ||
| Teeps |
Wood_butcher Posted on Sunday, December 31, 2006 - How much time would it take a "good" mechanic to wrap and reroute the wires in question? Key word: good. I'll guess 2 hours, assuming the "good" mechanic knows what to do, and how it should be done (or how you want it done.) I have seen no definitive procedure published, anywhere, only isolated anecdotes, indicating which wires, are to be wrapped (and with what), or which are to be rerouted. It's not as easy as you might think. With the way the bike vibrates, you could just, as easily, move the problem to another part of the wiring. | ||
| Treadmarks |
It's pretty easy actually, and like Teeps said it should take about 2 hours, if your not searching for problems while your in there. If I were to buy a new Uly, and if I did want to work on it, I would do the following: Have on hand iridium plugs, magnecor 2557 wires, 3" section of split loom shielding and torx 27 bit in advance. Remove airbox cover, fuel vent hose, air box lid, air filter. Remove screws securing airbox base and gently push out air temp sensor, and pull out both engine vent hoses. Remove left side scoop. Remove Idle adjust cable by turning counterclockwise until it falls free from throttle body. Do not lose spring. Repair idle adjust cable as necessary with poly shielding/heat shrink tubing. Disconnect plug wires from spark plugs and remove both spark plugs. Disconnect harness from coil and remove coil with spark plug wires intact. Adjust throttle cables at grip to provide slack in cables. Disconnect throttle cables at throttle body. Pull slack from main wiring harness to allow harness to rest against inside of frame channel and secure with cable tie at center harness attachment, to prevent harness from moving back to the right. Replace throttle cables so they are to the right of the main wiring harness and adjust throttle cables properly. Remove factory wires from coil and inspect coil for corrosion, clean as necessary. Install new magnecor wires to coil securely until positive click is felt. Install 3" section of 3/8" plastic split shielding to front plug wire. Install new iridium plugs. Apply anti sieze to threaded tip of idle adjust cable, place spring over tip and reinstall to throttle body. Route beneath main harness and resecure to frame. Turn clockwise till stop makes contact, then add two turns. Replace coil, gently guiding plug wires to plug area to the right of the throttle cable. Guide plug wires over plugs, using plug wire tool/fingertips verify positive click. Align coil and install bolts, connect harness plug to coil. Position shielding on front coil wire so that it is high on the wire and next to throttle cables. Place cable tie (ty-wrap) around front coil wire, both throttle cables and shield. Tighten snugly and trim. (This will allow the throttle cables and front plug wire to move together without chaffing). Replace right side scoop. Push air temp sensor into airbox base. Lubricate tips of engine vent hoses and push through airbox base, no taller than the top of the air temp sensor. Work velocity stack grommet around port in airbox base. Use wd-40 and a butter knife to prevent tearing rubber seal. Replace air filter, airbox lid and fuel vent hose. Replace airbox cover. Start engine, adjust idle and ride till permagrin sets in. I may have left some little tidbit out due to the fact that my wife is constantly reminding me of my "New years honey do list". Hope this helps someone else as much as it worked for me. (Message edited by treadmarks on January 01, 2007) | ||
| Chadhargis |
I used a Craftsman Torx bit. Striped the head out of the bolt. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
Chad, that explains why you stripped them out. The fit is night and day different, like trying to use a P2 screwdriver in a P3 screw. It works, if you don't need to torque on it hard. The Wiha sits quite a bit deeper and engages more of the screw. Screws that I rounded out with the Craftsman tool were a non-issue the Wiha one. Not trying to sound like an ad here. Most everyone seems to hate Torx. But it seems most all of those that hate Torx are using Craftsman Torx tools, which have proven to me to be crap. Most all of the common fasteners are one size, T27, which makes trying a better tool cheap. Not talking a $60 set of sockets, but $4.14 + S/H for the one you need. (Message edited by stevenknapp on January 01, 2007) | ||
| Pso |
You folks keep talking about the Wiha Torx bit, where do I get one? Thanks Paul | ||
| Bienhoabob |
Pso, Steve posted the site, about 10 posts up on this tread. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
http://www.wihatools.com/indexes/indxtorx.htm | ||
| Milo_h |
I'm curious, if anyone doing the rerouting thing are considering moving the idle cable to a more convenient location? I'm going to extend mine (with a piece of old "speedo" cable). Haven't decided on the location. Looking at behind (through) the air intake screen. Through the side of the airbox cover. Or, under the seat. Just thinking out loud. Peace Milo | ||
| Jmhinkle |
The only way I could find a T27 Torx when I needed it was Craftsman, but only in the security set where it is center drilled. I have not had a single problem stripping a screw while using it. I think a lot of people mistook the T27 screws as T25 since the T27 is a very rare size and quite hard to find a bit for in any common set. As a matter of fact the only way I have seen a T27 is in the Security Bit Set, but that is not counting specialty order such as Snap-on and Mac. I have never heard of a Wiha tool in my life. The name certainly doesn't inspire confidence whether the tools are good or not. I have yet to find a set of screwdrivers that are both comfortable and work well. If the Wiha tools are that good, I would be willing to try them I guess. I like the look of their Ergo drivers. | ||
| Crusty |
Wiha tools are made in Germany. When I got my set of screwdrivers, I first thought they were going to be cheap junk. (They were bought on sale by the company I was working for)They have proven to be extremely durable and very well engineered. After five years of industrial (mis)use, they still look very good and still work flawlessly. I haven't tried Wiha Torx bits(I use Snap On), but if the quality is even half as good as their screwdrivers, I'd have no reservations. | ||
| Stevenknapp |
I first found them when looking for 3mm hex screwdriver inserts to remove the fairing on my BMW. They have a lot of "strange" tools. A T-handle T27, for example.  A lot of our lab techs use their precision tools too. I tend to buy what I need (like the T27) or what they have on their web specials. So far every tool I've purchased has exceeded my expectations. I'll 2nd Crusty, their screwdrivers are top notch. On par with SnapOn in my opinion, and very often a much better value. I got my screwdrivers when they were switching styles. The old ones were "web special" at $25 for 5. | ||
| Stewadi |
Regarding the Wiha tools. I was wondering what style you would suggest that would work best. I see from their website they offer standard, plus and security. Any suggestions? Would you go with 1/4 or 3/8 inch? Also, is the chin spoiler held on by T27 bolts as well? | ||
| Treadmarks |
Stewadi, The security bits are for the torx fasteners that have a pin protruding from the center. I have not seen any of these on the Uly yet. Standard should be fine. 1/4" may be lighter and easier to carry, but if you're trying to remove stuck bolts 3/8" may be better. | ||
| Chrisp |
2007 Uly has a security fastener on the ignition switch assembly. Torx plus is a different size/type altogether and those bits will not fit any of the fasteners I've run across on the Uly. | ||
| Rhinowerx |
The wiring loom on my bike didn't appear to be chaffed, but the idle adjust cable has taken a beating.  Installed the Magnecors, repaired the idle adjust cable and re-routed the wiring loom/throttle cables while I was at it. Cheers -Jack | ||
| Stevenknapp |
The chin bolts are T27 as well. Go with the standard Torx. I've got: - a 3/8 drive T27 "socket" - A 1/4" T27 screwdriver bit for my ratcheting screwdriver etc.. - A T27 "T-handle" http://www.wihatools.com/364soft.htm If I were to pick one, it would be the 3/8" drive. |
