| Author | Message | ||
     Beagle_hog |
Are there any must do mods that you've done to your bike. I see a lot of taller windscreen, & luggage, anything else? If so, where did you get it (any Pic's) | ||
| Nutsosane |
Beagle, I believe the search function will yield amazing results.  NUTS | ||
| Too_tall_todd |
I just swapped out the stock headlight bulbs for hella +50's and jeeped the low beam to stay on all the time. If this is not enough help I am also looking into HID's  . Just bought a stebering (spelling)horn but have not installed it yet. The guys here on bad web have done an excellent job of documenting these mods. looking at a right side air scoop and might go so far as ceramic coating my headers since I don't like that feeling that my leg was on fire. jeez it's a good thing that it's almost Christmas. | ||
| Ftd |
Drummer exhaust www.kdfab.com Drummer catch can www.kdfab.com KN filter Buell Lightning fender Buell Traction grips Buell Race ECM/Direct link AmericanSportbike.com Right side scoop r.crins@gmx.net Vista Cruise throttlelock httpp://shop.store.yahoo.com/azmotorsports/07-4045 .html | ||
| Asdf |
Howdy! If you wish to reduce the vibration of the Ulysses handlebars at idle, try the HVMP Extra Heavy Universal Bar Ends: http://www.hvmp.com/universal.htm . They work extremely well. They allow you to retain your factory hand guards. As a bonus, they will also help to protect your brake and clutch levers from damage if the bike goes down. Once these extra heavy solid stainless steel bar ends are installed, vibration of the bike's handlebars at any engine speed is a complete non-issue. The mirrors will also be functional again, at all engine speeds. +++ Once you install HVMP Bar Ends, you can also install the “Caterpillar Cruise Control” for about $4. This is just a simple “O-Ring” that will add friction between your twist grip and the HVMP Bar End. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83 900&page=2&highlight=8M4991 Caterpillar Part Number 8M-4991 +++ I also installed the Dark Horse Moto Axle Sliders on both the front and rear axles. These devices will minimize damage to the front fork and the rear swing arm if the bike ever goes down or tips over. http://www.darkhorsemoto.com/ +++ I have the after market Heat Shields from Odie (Spec Ops). http://www.specialops-online.com/ . On a mid-90 degree (F) day, in stop & go traffic, while wearing baggy denim jeans I can feel "Warmth" on my right leg. No big deal. These things work very well. +++ Shorty control levers are more survivable during hostile encounters than long levers. If you also add a set of extra large-heavy HVMP Bar-End weights, lever survivability will be further enhanced. In addition to enhanced survivability, you may also discover that you prefer the ergonomics of short levers. My shorty levers are “Hacksaw Bobs”. I used a hacksaw to bob my levers with a 45 degree angle front to back. I removed less material from the front face of the lever than I removed the back face of the lever. The back face of the lever has about 1/4" more material removed from it than does the front face of the lever. The resultant bevel eliminates pinching the adjacent finger that is gripping the handlebar when the lever is actuated. I removed about 2-1/4 inches from the front face of the front brake lever. I removed about 1-1/2 inches from the front face of the clutch lever. I have slender fingers. If your fingers are thicker, you may not want to remove as much material. I smoothed and put a radius on the end of the levers with a stationary belt sander. A file would also work. +++ I didn't like the "On-Off" switch effect of the throttle on my Ulysses, when coming off of idle. A smooth throttle response is desirable for smooth, precise operation of a motorcycle. Not all Buells will have this “On-Off” switch problem with their throttles. The installation of a Race ECM eliminated my "On-Off" throttle problem. Unfortunately, the Race ECM does not support the stock Interactive Servo Exhaust Valve, so the valve is now wired wide open. Now, the bike rumbles a bit when at idle and at low RPM. For what it is worth, a Race Kit Dry Air Filter was installed at the same time as the Race ECM. Therefore, I do not know how much of my throttle problem was solved by the Race ECM or by the Race Filter. I suspect that the Race ECM was the main factor in my improved throttle response. I will probably replace my 2006 Ulysses inner air box cover with a 2007 design in the future. Preliminary reports on this mod sound promising. Should a nice custom ECM Map become available for my stock ECM, I will probably go back to my stock (Remapped) ECM. This will allow me to reactivate my Servo Exhaust Valve. So far, I am not aware of any tweaked stock ECM Maps that will mimic the Race ECM, or improve on the Race ECM for my application. +++ I felt that the gearing of First Gear was too tall. A too tall First Gear is problematic for slow speed maneuvering off pavement, in parking lots and in stop and go traffic. The installation of the XB-9 (Sportster 883) Engine Sprocket (With Stator Cover already riveted onto it) and an XB-9 Primary Chain in the Primary Drive solved the too tall First Gear problem. The XB-9 Primary gearing is a reduction from the stock XB-12 gearing by about 10.5%. If you do install the lower Primary Gearing, I suggest that you order the Engine Sprocket ASSEMBLY that has the Stator Cover ALREADY attached to the Engine Sprocket. Spend a few extra bucks and save yourself a bit of work. With the lower Primary Gearing, the bike can now be launched smoothly without any initial throttle application, if desired. Clutch "Feel" at the Friction Point is fantastic. You can simply ease out the clutch with the engine at idle, and do a smooth Roll-On launch. The bike will now "Putt" along with slow traffic. Simply let the engine idle with the clutch fully engaged, for a smooth 8-9 MPH. The downside of the lower gearing shows up at highway cruising speeds. When cruising at highway speeds, with stock Primary gearing, most Ulysses owners try to up-shift into a nonexistent SIXTH gear. Now, with the lower Primary gearing, you will try to find the nonexistent sixth gear about 10.5% sooner than before. With the lower gearing, 60 MPH = 3250 RPM, 70 MPH = 3800 RPM. Maximum speed, which on Buells is ultimately limited by the Rev Limiter, will be reduced from about 138 MPH to about 122 MPH. These figures for speed and RPM were taken from my speedo and tach while riding the bike. Therefore, they are not precise numbers. +++ I also raised my handle bars 1-1/2 inches by stacking two handlebar top clamps UNDER the handlebar. I filed the top rounded face of the ears that have the holes for the bolts to be flat and parallel with the flat bottom face. Other folks do not bother to do this. If you do not file the rounded faces of the ears to be flat, you will get about 1-3/4 inches of rise. If you use one clamp under your bars, get two inch long Allen Head screws to mount them. If you use two clamps under your bars get three inch screws to mount them. Stainless Steel 5/16 inch diameter 18 TPI (5/16-18 Coarse Thread) Allen Head bolts are available at most hardware stores. The top clamp is Part number N0348.1ADYBP +++ I have a T-Bags "Stowaway" on my Triple Tail. When it is empty or nearly empty, it collapses into a nice compact block that is about 10" X 11" wide X 5" thick. Here is the Link: http://www.t-bags.com/ When it is collapsed, it holds a T-Shirt to clean plastic, Aerostich waterproof glove covers and waterproof boot covers, a lithium LED flashlight and its own rain cover. It will hold a bit more while collapsed if desired. http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Rain-Gear-p-1- c-325.html When the bag is expanded it is about 10" front to back, 11" wide and 17" tall. It also has four outside compartments. In addition, it has two more zippered compartments. One is for the Rain Cover and the other zippered compartment contains straps that allow it to be used as a back pack. +++ On my handlebars I have a modified TouraTech handlebar bag. The bag is overly expensive and the mounting system needs to be revamped, if it was assembled with button head rivets instead of countersunk flathead rivets. I keep spare glasses in it. I also keep a Multi-Tool and a "Side Stand Puck", as well as other assorted small items. I chose to mount the bag with the net pouch facing to the rear and "Touratech" facing forward. http://www.touratech-usa.com/shop/usa.lasso?SubCat =Ulysses&-session=touratech:CD0142208490217E72D85E F7C0768BB5 +++ I also have the TouraTech Hand Guard “Spoilers” that add onto the stock Ulysses hand guards. They are a nice product, but to prevent possible injury to your fingers in a crash the mounting bolts need to be turned around. Do not have any exposed threads of the mounting bolts pointing to the rear, toward your fingers. I bought new stainless steel screws with acorn nuts. I put the acorn nuts facing forward, and had the pan heads of the screws facing my fingers. Other folks have used rivets instead of the supplied screws. Bottom line: to not have any metal nubs protruding toward your fingers on the back side of the hand guards. +++ I use the TouraTech Ulysses Under Seat Bag under my seat to organize tools and a tire repair kit. I bought this bag before the Buell Under Seat Bag was announced. I think that the Buell bag is a better design and a better value. +++ Buell “Traction Grips” are very nice handlebar grips. They are even nicer if they are heated! +++ I don’t use my tank bag much, but it is nice that it quickly attaches and detaches via Fastex buckles that are mounted to the bike’s air box cover mounting screws. Whatever tank bag that you choose should either have this feature, or be modified to incorporate this feature. On a Buell, this mounting method is a “Natural”. +++ Have Fun! | ||
| Saltydog |
-tank bag -heated grips (aerostich $25) | ||
| Lowflyer |
+1 heated grips. | ||
| Paochow |
I've got my Uly and mods here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/garage.php?do=vie wvehicle&vid=6306 Since then, I've recently added a AMSB Carbon Fiber Right Side Air Scoop, Buell traction grips, and Sylvania Silverstar. I have a 07 Airbox (didn't like the way my modded 06 looked), 07 Fork Springs, a Handlebar clamp(makes a .75" bar riser) and grip heaters on the way as well. Special Thanks to Daves and American Sportbike. BTW: since no one seems to like D616's I was able to score an new front 616 for $47 shipped on ebay. | ||
| Pso |
Best upgrade was the 07 airfilter cover.Solved the throttle problem that adsf talked about without replacing the ecm, air filter and muffler. I am also not going to get the reflash-the bikes is runnning so well now. HVMP bar end weights great for bar vibration,also BMW grips like the ones from the F650gs series, very comfortable and again cuts down vibration and they seem to conduct heat from grip heaters well. (they are the ones that have the groves in them) Opies heat shields for engine heat. Garmin GPS 376c with xm radio and naxrad weather. Found dirt roads an trails that were not on maps, also ducked around some bad weather in the mt.s. Touratech side stand large foot. (I was tired of looking for pads, stones etc to keep bike from sinking into dirt). Poly grip heaters,lower seat.Transfered PIAA's from GoldWing. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I have: HID Conversion Odie's Heat Shields Race Kit/Race Muffler Grip Heaters (Polly Heaters) Rizoma 851 Mirrors Touratech Handlebar bag (also mounted with mesh toward the rear. Tank Bag Tank Slapper tank protector Ram Mount for Camera/GPS 06 Low Seat I will be installing the HVMP bar end weights next. I will also be purchasing the 07 airbox cover. | ||
| Too_tall_todd |
hey FT_BSTRD how is that hid system you installed, I just put in the hella lights and am under impressed with them. My concern is the voltage flux when you start the engine. I plan to rig a self actuating/energising relay initiated through the turn signal cancel button. When I actually do it I will document it for the others. My question is how long have you had it working and how is it working. Thank you T3 | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
T3, I've had no issues with it at all. I have it wired directly to the battery attached to a relay and 30A fuse that came with the kit. When the key is switched on, the light is energized (the same as my car if I start it with the lights on). They don't dim at all when I turn the key. I don't think the regular headlights dim or turn off either, but I can't remember. I have had no regrets and am very pleased with the results. I attached the relay through the front power outlet. You could also attach a separate switch if you wanted to, but I don't think it's necessary. I have a write up on here somewhere and there are others that are better than mine as well. I didn't do the high beams. I don't feel I need it. | ||
| Asdf |
HID Low Beams, to include FB's setup: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/204623.html?1150977920 http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14 8275 FB has another updated installation thread in BadWeb, someplace... | ||
| Idave |
I replaced the fan  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I found the link with pictures. I don't know what happened to the other thread. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/233088.html?1160661441 |
