| Author | Message | ||
     Electraglider_1997 |
I've broken a brand new Sears Craftsman T27 screw driver and ruined a bit that I was using with a hand impact driver. So far the head of the left bottom screw is stripped. The head of the right bottom screw actually twisted right off and now I'm going to have to drill those F___s out and re-tap to another size. Question: are the top two screws into the gas tank? If they are then I'm afraid to even mess with those two screws. Buell really had no business using that permanent loctite on those screws. How in the hell do they expect us home mechanics to remove those things. I really can't believe how hard and expensive it is proving to be just to access that rear spark plug. I'm not even sure an easy-out will not just snap off in those things. Any advice here would be appreciated. | ||
| Daves |
the front ones do not go into the gas tank area of the frame. Get a reverse drill bit and drill them out. I am not a big fan of "easy outs' they are more like "easy breakoff in there and really make it a pain" tools. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Has everybody had a sweet time with those 4 screws or just a select few of us?? I believe that certain colors of Loctite you have to heat to 350 degrees to soften it so that you can remove the bolts. Certainly can't be messing with heat around a gas tank and that plastic. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Threads like these really make me nervous about bringing my bike in for its upcoming 10k... | ||
| Teeps |
I've had mine off several times, first time was no problem. I used a Snap-on bit... Quality tools = less pain in the arse. Try, using a soldering gun to heat the bolt heads. | ||
| Birdmanrh |
+1 on SnapOn, quality is always the best.  | ||
| Birdmanrh |
+1 on Snap-On, quality is always the best. | ||
| Az_rider |
I had trouble with them too. They came out easier after I went for a ride and warmed the bike up. | ||
| Jmhinkle |
No problems on mine. Just swapped my inner airbox to the '07 and installed the K&N. Bolt came out and went in without hassle. I have managed to strip one of the phillips screws trying to get my handguard off. Not sure why those are on that tight. | ||
| Roadrailer |
No problem with mine. There didn't seem to beany loctite on them. | ||
| Bienhoabob |
No problem with removing the screws on mine. Did have a problem removing the rear spark plug boot. I used a boot remover and wound up removing the rubber boot, but the insides stayed on the spark plug. Had to buy a new spark plug wire. The parts guy said, to twist and pull the plug boot, not just pull. Funny that the front boot plug was removed with just a pull. Then I had to buy a wobble extension like the manual states. | ||
| Chris_in_tn |
I stripped out two of the screws and broke one off inside the frame. I could see using the blue loctite but the red is ridiculous. I reinstalled them with no loctite and have had no problems. Same for the screws holding on the lower chin spoiler. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Actually the screws I'm writing about are the 4 screws that hold the plastic plate that holds the rubber velocity stack and yeah I now know that I didn't need to take this off to get at the plugs. The same type of screws that hold the air box cover were easy. Anyway, I drilled out and retapped one of the screws and still have to do the same to the other screw I buggered up. The top two screws came out using an air impact driver with the air pressure set a 80 PSI. I know now what the top of the engine looks like anyway. The rear plug looked clean but I looked at it because the rear cylinder wasn't firing yesterday, only the front. Not sure what the heck is the problem. Now I have to drill out the other screw and they are pretty darned hard. They used red loctite on those turkeys. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on September 15, 2006) | ||
| Paochow |
Better than those that held the faux tank/air box cover on mine. The two under the seat were MIA after less than 500 miles. Must have shook their way loose at idle, since the bike has few vibes anywhere else. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I was able to get the bottom left screw drilled out but the other one is so hard that it defied drilling. I used cutting oil and even a cobalt drill but it would not drill into it. Any ideas? I'm hoping one of you guys knows of some special bit material that can cut into hardened steel. I changed to a new plug and the bike runs but the plastic plate that airbox cover goes over is only held by three of the 4 screws because of this BS. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on September 15, 2006) |
